Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 04-29-2016, 09:54 PM   #1
Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miramichi, NB
Posts: 66
Leaking Cold Water Valve around hot water heater

I dewinterized today finally and when I was draining the outside shower with the pump turned on and water coming in from the City connection I heard a noise. Upon investigation there was a spray coming out from one of the cold water valves at the water heater and water dripping from the rear end of the trailer so I shut everything down immediately.

It looks like the valve is connected to the cold water line with some kind of crimp system which I think might be called a pex clamp. Does anyone have idea what this is and how to replace? I am hoping to avoid some costly work at the dealership.

This 21SS trailer is new to me last year and I wonder if I didn't winterize it properly.
__________________

__________________
thomsonr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-29-2016, 10:12 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,734
If your valves look like these, you may want to replace all 3 of them now before they leak. I replaced 2 of the ones on my Roo 19 with 1/2" plastic valves I bought at my local RV dealer. You can buy the same kind of PEX clamps you have now, but you need a $40 tool to crimp them. I just used hose clamps.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Lousy valves.jpg
Views:	112
Size:	314.7 KB
ID:	106473  
__________________

__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
rockfordroo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2016, 06:34 PM   #3
Member
 
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Miramichi, NB
Posts: 66
Here's what they look like:

These cheap looking valves are everywhere in my 21SS.
Attached Thumbnails
Click image for larger version

Name:	Water Heater Valve.jpg
Views:	186
Size:	290.4 KB
ID:	106544  
__________________
thomsonr is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-30-2016, 07:23 PM   #4
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2012
Posts: 6,734
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomsonr View Post
Here's what they look like:

These cheap looking valves are everywhere in my 21SS.
They may be cheap looking, but they're better than the ones I posted. (How much better remains to be seen.)
__________________
1988 Coleman Sequoia - popup (1987-2009) - outlasted 3 Dodge Grand Caravans!
2012 Roo19 - hybrid (2012-2015)

2016 Mini Lite 2503S - tt (2015 - ???)
2011 Traverse LT, 3.6L, FWD
2009 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab, 5.3L, 4x4, 3.73
2016 Silverado 2500HD Dbl Cab, 6.0L 4x4, 4.10
rockfordroo is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 08:15 AM   #5
Senior Member
 
Wolverine 1945's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: SouthWest Michigan
Posts: 3,691
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomsonr View Post
I dewinterized today finally and when I was draining the outside shower with the pump turned on and water coming in from the City connection I heard a noise. Upon investigation there was a spray coming out from one of the cold water valves at the water heater and water dripping from the rear end of the trailer so I shut everything down immediately.

It looks like the valve is connected to the cold water line with some kind of crimp system which I think might be called a pex clamp. Does anyone have idea what this is and how to replace? I am hoping to avoid some costly work at the dealership.

This 21SS trailer is new to me last year and I wonder if I didn't winterize it properly.
City Water hooked up,,, and running the pump,,, is this normal ???
__________________
Wolverine 1945 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 08:24 AM   #6
Site Team
 
wmtire's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: Northeast Louisiana
Posts: 15,031
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomsonr View Post
Here's what they look like:



These cheap looking valves are everywhere in my 21SS.
On a separate note, and looking at the pic you have posted of your bypass valves, they appear to be set incorrect for normal use. You appear to have the bottom cold water inlet valve open (which is correct), but you have the top hot water outlet valve closed (incorrect), and the bypass/crossover valve (the one between the cold and hot water line) as open (which is also incorrect for normal use)

You need to open the hot water outlet valve, and close the crossover valve to use your water heater.

The way you currently have it, no hot water can come out of the water heater, but cold water is being fed into the hot water lines via the crossover line, so when you turn on the hot water taps at your faucets you are only going to get cold water from them.

This post will have a diagram of the proper handle positions for all three lines, for normal use to make sure you have them set correct when you get the leak fixed:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

Hope it helps

On another side note, if this is how the valves were set for winterization only purposes, then it was still not correct, as the bottom cold water inlet valve also should have been closed to keep antifreeze out of the water heater.
__________________
2011 Flagstaff 831 RLBSS

Ducks are just all-terrain chickens
wmtire is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 09:12 AM   #7
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 338
Shark Bites

Go to Home Depot and buy yourself some shark bite fittings. They are very expensive, but they work great. They push on, and don't leak. The best part is that they can be removed and reused time after time. I have them all over our houseboat at Lake Powell, and even in my rental with copper tubing. Better than hose clamps.
__________________
2009 Roo 21ss + 2007 Superduty 6.0
mnoland30 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 09:18 AM   #8
Pickin' & Campin'
 
5picker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: South Western PA
Posts: 5,040
Quote:
Originally Posted by wmtire View Post
On a separate note, and looking at the pic you have posted of your bypass valves, they appear to be set incorrect for normal use. You appear to have the bottom cold water inlet valve open (which is correct), but you have the top hot water outlet valve closed (incorrect), and the bypass/crossover valve (the one between the cold and hot water line) as open (which is also incorrect for normal use)

You need to open the hot water outlet valve, and close the crossover valve to use your water heater.

The way you currently have it, no hot water can come out of the water heater, but cold water is being fed into the hot water lines via the crossover line, so when you turn on the hot water taps at your faucets you are only going to get cold water from them.

This post will have a diagram of the proper handle positions for all three lines, for normal use to make sure you have them set correct when you get the leak fixed:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...st-103381.html

Hope it helps

On another side note, if this is how the valves were set for winterization only purposes, then it was still not correct, as the bottom cold water inlet valve also should have been closed to keep antifreeze out of the water heater.
I concur.
Also, air will trap in the water heater before it allows it to get full, (because the hot outlet is closed) and not enough water will enter the tank to keep from burning out the electric element.
__________________
_________________________________________
2016 Flagstaff 8529IKBS Diamond Package 5th Wheel
2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4
TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater - Sinemate 3500w Gen.
Days Camped: '15=22 '16=46 '17=30
5picker is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 09:29 AM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Waynesville
Posts: 12,027
Quote:
Originally Posted by thomsonr View Post
Here's what they look like:

These cheap looking valves are everywhere in my 21SS.
They are Cheap valves but they are used by F/R in Most units regardless of Price! Now your Pic shows that You probably "Didn't" have these cheap valves turned for "Winterizing" and also running the Pump and City water at same time "May/Can" cause Damage! Youroo!!
__________________
youroo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-02-2016, 09:56 AM   #10
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Posts: 117
Quote:
Originally Posted by youroo View Post
... also running the Pump and City water at same time "May/Can" cause Damage!
I don't see why that would happen as the city water should pressurize the pressure side of the pump and therefore open the pressure switch on it. Maybe if the pressure was low enough on the city supply and the tank was dry it would run your pump while dry, but that is the only possible way to cause damage that I can see... YMMV

My guess is that maybe there was a little water trapped in the valve over the winter and it cracked it. I always try to blow out the system with air before putting in the glycol, to hopefully prevent that issue.

My Roo has slightly different, white plastic valves. I had two of them that wanted to leak very slightly this spring. After turning them on and off several times, they stopped.
__________________

__________________
Early 2016 Rockwood Roo 19
dragon-roo is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
heater, hot water, leak, water, water heater

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Virginia Campgrounds

Reviews provided by




ForestRiverForums.com is not in any way associated with Forest River, Inc. or its associated RV manufacturing divisions.


Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:38 PM.