Lessons from a first-time winterizer

[thestrangebrew]

Thanks everyone. I'll look into it and get to work on it. I'll have to look into de-winterizing also because I'll be taking the trailer out in Jan. to the beach.

[kpm]

-T

Is about 3 gallons of antifreeze enough to pour into the freshwater tank and draw it throughout the system? How many gallons did you you pour into the tank? I ended up getting some from my local Lowes.

Thanks!

Originally Posted by the8re

kpm,

I had not fashioned a hose for the inlet, and I felt more comfortable doing the freshwater tank method. But from what I can tell, using the inlet uses less antifreeze, it requires just the hose from the inlet to the jugs (and someone to swap them out, and flipping one valve to bypass the freshwater tank.

Next year I will likely use the inlet.

-t

[kpm]

I'm outside now winterizing the Roo 23ss!! Everything is going fine so far and according to plan thanks to this thread and the videos. I am first blowing the water lines out with compressed air. I will then winterize using the RV antifreeze method via the intake valve. I am doing both because I wanted to experience both ways.

Question:
When using compressed air, how do you blow out the lines between the fresh water tank and water pump? I was not sure if there is a backflow valve that would prevent the compressed air from making it's way on the intake side of the pump.

- Does simply running the water pump for a few seconds clear the lines enough?
- Should I fill the fresh water tank with RV Antifreeze to ensure that side is protected?

Thanks
kpm

[KenHwy61]

I just disconnect the line from the fresh water tank where it connects to the pump. If it is pitched downhill hill gravity will drain it. Otherwise you can back blow through the fitting. You can remove the outlet fitting from the pump and tip the pump to drain any water out. I wouldn't put antifreeze in the fresh water tank if I were you because then you have to try and clean it out come spring.

[WestCoastRV'er]

Don't forget to take out your coffee maker. a couple years back I left mine in the trailer over the winter. In the spring I went to use it and water came out as quick as I poured it in.
I prefer pour-over coffee now
.
.
.

[kpm]

Thanks for those last two tips. Thanks everyone for the information in this thread. I just completed winterizing the Roo23ss today! I took my time and tried to get a good understanding of the plumbing system and concept behind winterizing. I think I covered all bases during this process. I blew the lines out by using compressed air. The compressed air method was easy, but you gotta keep an eye on the pressure. At one point the pressure went up to 35-40psi.. I quickly reduced pressure. I then winterized using the RV Antifreeze. This process went smooth.

It was a very productive day with a great feeling of accomplishment!
I felt good giving the Roo a lot of TLC because it gave us a lot of joy this season.

My last question. Maybe I am thinking too much into this but...
After the pump is off and everything is completed, do you open some of the faucets to relieve the pressure? Or is the goal to keep the pressure in the lines with the antifreeze?

Thanks
kpm

Roo23ss 2014

[KenHwy61]

I usually leave the faucets open, but it probably doesn't really matter. In the spring when you connect your hose for the first time be sure to turn on the water slowly and watch for any leaks.

[Jim101]

Wanted to winterize our new ROO 21SS for the first time. He has a 41' 5th wheeler he has had for a few years that he keeps next to his house.
Here's what he did, removed the caps from the low point drains (three of them), there is no water in our holding tanks. Removed the plug from the hot water tank, turned all faucets on then used his compressor to blow out the lines on both faucets, turned on the water pump for a few seconds then blew out the lines again. RV antifreeze in all the p-traps, that's it.
Its what he has been dong for years......What do you think? I am also removing the water filter, that's a job in itself on the 21SS...

Thanks,

Jim

[MuddauberE]

Originally Posted by kpm

Question:
When using compressed air, how do you blow out the lines between the fresh water tank and water pump? I was not sure if there is a backflow valve that would prevent the compressed air from making it's way on the intake side of the pump.

I never worry about this. I don't think water sits in those lines and will cause any issues. I know plenty of people that just drain the water from their lines and never worry about anything else. They don't use an antifreeze.
But for my own personal experiences, I think it's better to put antifreeze in mainly to help protect the pump, keeping it lubed and to protect drain elbows in the sinks and the rubber ring around the bottom of the toilet bowl. Not having antifreeze in the line between the fresh water tank and the pump is OK.

[Jim101]

Mud,

Do you put antifreeze with water in the toilet? Or what.....

Thanks,

Jim

[kpm]

Just to confirm...
The only thing that you do to the hot water heater is remove the anode rod to drain the water from it? I tried finding a plug from the hardware store, so is it ok to put the rod back in for the winter? I did blow some compressed air through the hot water heater before I opened the bypass valve.

I also closed the lines to the water heater and opened the bypass valve so no antifreeze would run into it.

thanks
kpm

roo 23ss 2014

[MuddauberE]

Originally Posted by Jim101

Mud,



Do you put antifreeze with water in the toilet? Or what.....



Thanks,



Jim

I hold down the flush till pink water is coming out. I then add a little more antifreeze usually leftovers from the bottle into the bowl of the toilet to protect the rubber ring. Not a whole lot, just about an inch or two.


Take The Road Less Traveled!

[MuddauberE]

Originally Posted by kpm

Just to confirm...

The only thing that you do to the hot water heater is remove the anode rod to drain the water from it? I tried finding a plug from the hardware store, so is it ok to put the rod back in for the winter? I did blow some compressed air through the hot water heater before I opened the bypass valve.



I also closed the lines to the water heater and opened the bypass valve so no antifreeze would run into it.



thanks

kpm



roo 23ss 2014

I remove the anode and leave it out. Others may say otherwise but I think it's a preference. I don't want to take a chance on cracking the threads from freezing water so I just leave it out


Take The Road Less Traveled!

[DK-in-SC]

Originally Posted by WestCoastRV'er

Don't forget to take out your coffee maker. a couple years back I left mine in the trailer over the winter. In the spring I went to use it and water came out as quick as I poured it in.
I prefer pour-over coffee now
.
.
.

Thank you! I need to show DW wife that one. While winterizing last weekend I brought the coffee maker in the house and she thought I was nuts.


Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

[rockfordroo]

I screw mine back in a little bit. I don't want some critter crawling in there and expiring in my water tank.

[Agewon]

I also learned a lesson while winterizing for the first time too; de-pressurize the HW tank before pulling the drain plug.
I had my compressor still plugged into the system at 30 psi and forgot to unplug it before I put the HW tank on bypass. Well, needless to say I need a new tank plug after it went sailing into the yard like a bullet.


2014- 4

[MuddauberE]

Originally Posted by Agewon

I also learned a lesson while winterizing for the first time too; de-pressurize the HW tank before pulling the drain plug.
I had my compressor still plugged into the system at 30 psi and forgot to unplug it before I put the HW tank on bypass. Well, needless to say I need a new tank plug after it went sailing into the yard like a bullet.


2014- 4

Lol. I did the same thing accept I didn't have the system plugged into an air compressor. Only under natural pressure which I think is 45 PSI. Anyhow, my neighbors were on the other side of the wooden privacy fence wondering why I was spraying the fence with the hose. Oops.


Take The Road Less Traveled!

[kpm]

Great feedback. Thanks everyone!

[stugilmour]

Excellent thread with lots of good info.

Our new 233S is at the dealer right now. Can someone clarify the location of both low point drains? I may have missed one as I believe our previous Jayco only had one.

Couple of adder tips regarding the filter; generally info I picked up here...

• When loosening the filter housing with the plastic wrench, be very careful to not put excessive force on the mounting screws. They really are not strong enough to back up against the filter housing torque. Grip the bottom of the filter housing to steady it while loosening.
• I found a cut down 4 liter milk jug makes a perfect 'bucket' to surround the filter housing an avoid spills. The plastic is thin and flexible enough to slip under the housing and form a sleeve.
• Removed the hinge from the pump access door and replaced with it a knob and catch. The compartment makes a nice storage compartment for some of the winterizing stuff.

HTH

Stu

[kpm]

I have a Roo 23ss and mine are here. See attached pic.
They are right behind the label above that brown siding trim. Not sure if it's the same for the 233. Is there a label like on mine?