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Old 10-10-2015, 09:15 PM   #1
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Leveling after decoupling

Used the heck out of the 23IKSS this summer, our first RV.

However, only had to set it up 4 or 5 times. Most stays were long term.

This time, it took 3 tries, using the Andersen Levelers, and we settled for the bubble being 3/4 inside the level area of the level. Each time I'd lower the tongue, the levelers would shift slightly out of level (gravel).

Unfortunately, I've learned that 3/4 of a bubble is not the same as full bubble. You can feel the slant inside.

Any easy way to re-level without re-coupling?
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:20 PM   #2
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Are you blocking the off side tires with some good chocks?
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:24 PM   #3
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I am. Still slipping a touch.

I notice the tongue jack gets preloaded pretty good when that happens, too, which is concerning. I put legos under the tongue, and lift the jack to relieve the stress, and re lower it.
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Old 10-10-2015, 09:31 PM   #4
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Ok, I would try to wedge the Andersen's wedge block in tighter with a hammer or bar.

Or backup just a touch more on the leveler.
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Old 10-11-2015, 02:56 PM   #5
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Maybe put a piece of plywood on the ground under the trailer tires first. If you still need more leveling, then put the Andersen levelers on top of the plywood. That will keep them from sinking in sand, grass, gravel, etc. That's how we've been doing it and it's worked well.

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Old 10-20-2015, 02:55 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddavid View Post
I am. Still slipping a touch.

I notice the tongue jack gets preloaded pretty good when that happens, too, which is concerning. I put legos under the tongue, and lift the jack to relieve the stress, and re lower it.
I'm taking it that the little bit of camper wiggle is working your wedges out, and rolling back off the Andersons....I would consider this almost dangerous....
Under stand the concept of the Andersons, was intrigued till reading this, but have never seen them in person. adding the X-Chocks like Dan should help prevent the creeping. The ply under should help with the sinking....
What do you use for a level? stick-ons work but not as well as a small level on the floor...(IMHO)
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Old 10-24-2015, 01:52 AM   #7
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I level with the Lynx blocks and set the BAL X-Chocks between the wheels, and then lower all four levelers with a battery Hitachi drill and 3/4" socket. Use Lynx blocks under the corner levelers to get a better "footprint." After using the camper for the first night, check the tension on the four corner levelers. Check the corner levelers again after any heavy wind or rain. Having the corner jacks tight stops the shaking that may encourage motion on your Anderson levelers or Lynx blocks.


I was intrigued by the Anderson levelers, but finally didn't buy them as they don't appear a simple as just backing on the appropriate height of Lynx blocks.


More practice of setting up will help...practicing with one-night stays during long distance trips will get you to leveling, setting up, and packing up quickly in no time. You get the knack for looking at the site, accessing best position for level, guestimating the number of needed Lynx blocks, backing in, and learning to need only one attempt to get situated.
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Old 10-24-2015, 05:02 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddavid View Post
Used the heck out of the 23IKSS this summer, our first RV.

However, only had to set it up 4 or 5 times. Most stays were long term.

This time, it took 3 tries, using the Andersen Levelers, and we settled for the bubble being 3/4 inside the level area of the level. Each time I'd lower the tongue, the levelers would shift slightly out of level (gravel).

Unfortunately, I've learned that 3/4 of a bubble is not the same as full bubble. You can feel the slant inside.

Any easy way to re-level without re-coupling?
Short answer NO, you would only be able to relevel front to back not side to side.
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Old 10-24-2015, 05:54 AM   #9
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For what it's worth, I think the large level mounted on the front of the trailer is the easiest and best way to get side to side leveling accomplished. You can use the Anderson's or blocks to obtain the side to side before you even unhook. I also install the Bal X Chocks before unhooking, then it is a matter of just leveling front to back and again, I use the big level in front to accomplish that. I will admit, it takes a little time to mount the big level on the front, but the time is well spent in the time it has saved in the last 3 years camping. The stick on levels work, but must be permanently attached as the heat, etc will let them move unbeknownst to you.
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Old 10-24-2015, 06:26 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Toddavid View Post
Used the heck out of the 23IKSS this summer, our first RV.

However, only had to set it up 4 or 5 times. Most stays were long term.

This time, it took 3 tries, using the Andersen Levelers, and we settled for the bubble being 3/4 inside the level area of the level. Each time I'd lower the tongue, the levelers would shift slightly out of level (gravel).

Unfortunately, I've learned that 3/4 of a bubble is not the same as full bubble. You can feel the slant inside.

Any easy way to re-level without re-coupling?
The answer is Yes,there is a Co.that makes (Air Bags) that you can place under your tires then inflate! It LIFTS your unit! Recovery Companys use them all the time! Youroo!!
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