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Old 07-10-2016, 08:32 PM   #11
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I went out to the camper today and checked the batteries, they were wired correctly, but I removed the extra one. I also put a meter on the remaining battery and it measured only 8.6 volts. I hit the slide out switch and heard the motor click but nothing happened. I hooked the truck up to the trailer and the slide out worked fine. My fear now is the inverter was possibly damaged. Can I check that without power ?
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:33 PM   #12
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Oh and thanks for the replies, they gave me some good direction.
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Old 07-10-2016, 08:53 PM   #13
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I went out to the camper today and checked the batteries, they were wired correctly, but I removed the extra one. I also put a meter on the remaining battery and it measured only 8.6 volts. I hit the slide out switch and heard the motor click but nothing happened. I hooked the truck up to the trailer and the slide out worked fine. My fear now is the inverter was possibly damaged. Can I check that without power ?
Your trailer has a converter (converts 110v to 12V) and inverter (inverts 12V to 110V) just a small point. 8.6 indicates a dead battery it may come back to life with charging or may not. I don't know of any way to check the converter with adding 110V power. If you hook up to power (generator or house) you can check the 110V side by checking the clock on the microwave, and check the 12V side by placing your meeter across the 12V terminals of the converter and see if you are getting more then batter voltage should be somewhere 13+ good luck
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Old 07-10-2016, 09:03 PM   #14
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Hello again Ben,

I think you need to hook up a external charger and get the battery up to proper voltage. I use a Schumacher that has a 2 amp tender mode and also 8 amp faster mode. Carefully take off the battery caps and make sure the water (acid) level is touching the bottom of the filling holes, there are little slices on the side that allow gas to escape. No Smoking as the battery produces hydrogen.

Do not connect the charger while plugged in, you do not want any sparks.

Use safety glasses as well.

Charge both your batteries.

Your slide will not work on 8 volts.. Too low and will blow the breaker or fuse with over current.

If your batteries were hooked up backwards you would know it.

On your inverter there are polarity reversal fuses, They are 30 amps possibly. Need to check theses too.
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:13 PM   #15
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About the converter & checking it. Most of Roos (at least mine is) use the WFCO converters. When I had my PUP I had a converter go out & the WFCO website showed how to check for a bad converter. If not then call WFCO & they will be able to help you. Here is the address for their troubleshooting. Just find which model it is.
Troubleshooting charts | wfcoelectronics.com
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Old 07-10-2016, 10:30 PM   #16
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Adding the second battery most likely had nothing to do with your problem. It sounds like the connections ( screws) on the trailer connector were not tight or catching the wire properly, This causes a high resistance connection and when you start drawing high currents with AC etc on, it generates heat. Remove and replace the trailer power connector. You will most likely see a dark burned spot on one of the power terminals.
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Old 07-11-2016, 02:34 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ben M View Post
I went out to the camper today and checked the batteries, they were wired correctly, but I removed the extra one. I also put a meter on the remaining battery and it measured only 8.6 volts. I hit the slide out switch and heard the motor click but nothing happened. I hooked the truck up to the trailer and the slide out worked fine. My fear now is the inverter was possibly damaged. Can I check that without power ?
Chances are that battery is now history and may be the new one too. I think that's why they say batteries should be same type, size, age and condition. If your CONVERTER/charger was dealing all weekend with trying to charge a DEAD battery, that may have contributed to your 110 v high amperage condition. Above the numbers were shown. A/C with water heater, frig, an over taxed converter and other uses probably exceeded your 30 amps contributing to the other problems. I keep a $13 plug in, analog volt meter in the wall outlet and start worrying about voltage any time I see it drop below 109 volts AC. One of those $89 surge protectors will probably not help with a gradual overload but The $300 Progressive Industries or the like. Might have caught your problem early.

Finally best advice on batteries is be sure the are fully charged before you head out. Best test is use battery cut off the night before departure and check batteries for 12.5 volts the next morning. If you can't do cut off cause your frig needs to be on then unplug the night before, shut everything off but the frig running propane and batteries should still be strong in the morning, IF YOUR BATTERIES ARE GOOD TO GO.
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Old 09-26-2016, 11:11 PM   #18
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late reply

I know this is an old thread but wanted to respond anyway. I had the exact same experience with my Surveyor trailer. I went to remove power cord and found it fused to the trailer. I had to tear the trailer socket apart to get the cable removed. I replaced the trailer receptacle myself at my expense and put a new plug on the old cable. I then contacted the dealer about a replacement cable and reimbursement for my expense of a new plug. They said that Forest River's position was that because I had "tampered" with the receptacle it voided my warranty. I advised them that the temperature that night was below freezing and I needed to take action to protect my family by providing heat in the trailer. What they called "tampering" was a fairly intelligent person "repairing" the faulty parts. Any sensible person would "tamper" with the cable failure in order to avoid freezing. Forest River did't give a hoot. Given the same circumstances again I would still "tamper" and then "tamper" some more to protect my family. Bah Humbug to FR. They would expect us to freeze while waiting for a certified FR repair facility to do exactly what I did to repair the problem.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:15 PM   #19
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I know this is an old thread but wanted to respond anyway. I had the exact same experience with my Surveyor trailer. I went to remove power cord and found it fused to the trailer. I had to tear the trailer socket apart to get the cable removed. I replaced the trailer receptacle myself at my expense and put a new plug on the old cable. I then contacted the dealer about a replacement cable and reimbursement for my expense of a new plug. They said that Forest River's position was that because I had "tampered" with the receptacle it voided my warranty. I advised them that the temperature that night was below freezing and I needed to take action to protect my family by providing heat in the trailer. What they called "tampering" was a fairly intelligent person "repairing" the faulty parts. Any sensible person would "tamper" with the cable failure in order to avoid freezing. Forest River did't give a hoot. Given the same circumstances again I would still "tamper" and then "tamper" some more to protect my family. Bah Humbug to FR. They would expect us to freeze while waiting for a certified FR repair facility to do exactly what I did to repair the problem.

I would skate past the dealer with this issue and contact Forest River directly if I had the same thing happen.
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Old 09-27-2016, 08:57 PM   #20
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Hope I didn't miss anything but, wouldn't low CG voltage also cause a build up of excessive heat?
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