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Old 06-08-2016, 08:20 AM   #1
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New Rockwoods - Dometic DMR702 Fridge Fuse

If you have a 2016 or 2017 Roo and maybe even 2015 you most likely have a Dometic DMR702 fridge. You can find the model number on the decal inside on the left side.

I changed the fuse on the power board while at the campground and did not save the old one. Interestingly Dometic can not tell me the voltage rating on the fuse in their own product and the info they did send me is wrong.

Could someone pull their fuse (if you're comfortable doing such things)and tell me the voltage rating. Its a small glass fuse inside the power board. The power board is on the lower left inside the outside access panel and has two plastic clips on the side you pry open with a screwdriver. The glass fuse is on the upper right of that board under the black cover.

I know the fuse is a 5 amp 5 X 20mm. What I need to know is it 125V or 250V rated which will be stamped on one end of the fuse. I know the fridge operates on 110 volt but that does not always mean they used a 125V rated fuse.
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:32 AM   #2
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I can check mine tonight after work.
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:36 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
What I need to know is it 125V or 250V rated which will be stamped on one end of the fuse. I know the fridge operates on 110 volt but that does not always mean they used a 125V rated fuse.
I'll bet they use whichever one they can get the cheapest!
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:42 AM   #4
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I'll bet they use whichever one they can get the cheapest!
Probably so, I sent them an email and they sent back a part number for it. 5A 250V .250 X 1.250????????????????????????

The fuse/holder is 5mm X 20mm

It was like pulling teeth getting them to send me the parts breakdowns which is usually easy stuff to find on their website. So if anyone ever needs it PM me. I had one hell of a time finding the correct AC element for it and every parts dept I talked with was also clueless on it.
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Old 06-08-2016, 09:38 PM   #5
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Didn't get home until after dark. Gonna try tomorrow.
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Old 06-08-2016, 10:51 PM   #6
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Mr Havercamp, you already have the answer you need from the part number they sent you. Your fuse should be a 5amp, 250volt, 1/4"x1 1/4" fuse. ( 5A = 5amp, 250V= 250 volts, .250= 1/4", and 1.250= 1 1/4"
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:32 AM   #7
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Mr Havercamp, you already have the answer you need from the part number they sent you. Your fuse should be a 5amp, 250volt, 1/4"x1 1/4" fuse. ( 5A = 5amp, 250V= 250 volts, .250= 1/4", and 1.250= 1 1/4"
No...that is one of the problems. The fuse is 5mm x20mm or roughly 3/16x3/4 not the size in the part number.. i dont think I can jam a 1/4 x 1 1/4 into that holder lol. When the fuse blew I went to radioshack and grabbed 125:v but now am wondering if they should have been 250v. Pulled the old and tossed it like a dumbass without looking.at it for the volt rating

Dometic is making or having these DRM fridges made in China and its very evident the support people are lost regarding them. I spent an hour at an RV dealer parts counter while the manager made phone calls to his distributors and Dometic trying to get the correct part number for the AC element. Finally had success, or so we thought and ordered one......its wrong.

Later I pulled the bad one and then received a response to my email to Dometic with the correct part number and a pdf of the parts breakdowns which are not on Dometics website like all their other fridges. No one has the AC element in stock. I finally found a couple in Oregon and I'm in PA. Normally a Dometic element is $30, these will cost you almost double with shipping.

Dometic calls this the "Renaissance Series". Perhaps it should be called the cheap series or the Pita series. I can see me replacing this entire fridge in the future. When I look at the cooling unit compared to my last Atwood fridge in my 2013 that we sold, this thing screams cheap loudly. It will probably last a few days longer than the warranty and then implode.
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:43 AM   #8
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I think you are getting way too analytical here and I doubt very much it matters one iota. This is only protecting a 12V circuit so either voltage is way above the requirement. The 5A is the important number here. If you have a fuse that is 5A and fits I would run it and not look back.

Having opened up the cover on mine just the other day... I can tell you the latches on that cover are a PIA to get unhooked. Then the cover is not easy to open or close as they were afraid to allow any slack in those wires at all.
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Old 06-09-2016, 05:37 AM   #9
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I think you are getting way too analytical here and I doubt very much it matters one iota. This is only protecting a 12V circuit so either voltage is way above the requirement. The 5A is the important number here. If you have a fuse that is 5A and fits I would run it and not look back.

Having opened up the cover on mine just the other day... I can tell you the latches on that cover are a PIA to get unhooked. Then the cover is not easy to open or close as they were afraid to allow any slack in those wires at all.
It does matter, the glass fuse I'm talking about is for the AC side of the power board for the AC heating element, not the 12volt side which is protected by its own seperate 5amp plastic mini blade fuse on the left side of the board. Ac voltage can vary, I've seen my progressive EMS without going into protection mode show park voltage as low as 107 and as high as 135 which is where the 250V fuse rating could come into play. I am betting that's what was originally in the board.

Don't discount the 12 volt side, that's the expensive side of the board so I would suggest using a 5A blade fuse rated exactly for that and not put in any 5amp and go with it but then again its your fridge so whatever floats your boat. The 12volt side is what cooks when you lose a board and these DMR702 boards are @ $300 if you can even find one in stock. The AC fuse I am talking about is only for power to the AC heating element relay for the heating element itself.

I can get my plastic cover open easily. Is your fridge the DMR702?
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Old 06-09-2016, 08:16 AM   #10
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T5AL250V

It also has a L with a F inside the L in f in front of the fuse number but I think that might be the maker's logo. Is LF a fuse maker?
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