New Rockwoods - Dometic DMR702 Fridge Fuse

Mr Havercamp · 06-08-2016, 07:20 AM

If you have a 2016 or 2017 Roo and maybe even 2015 you most likely have a Dometic DMR702 fridge. You can find the model number on the decal inside on the left side.

I changed the fuse on the power board while at the campground and did not save the old one. Interestingly Dometic can not tell me the voltage rating on the fuse in their own product and the info they did send me is wrong.

Could someone pull their fuse (if you're comfortable doing such things)and tell me the voltage rating. Its a small glass fuse inside the power board. The power board is on the lower left inside the outside access panel and has two plastic clips on the side you pry open with a screwdriver. The glass fuse is on the upper right of that board under the black cover.

I know the fuse is a 5 amp 5 X 20mm. What I need to know is it 125V or 250V rated which will be stamped on one end of the fuse. I know the fridge operates on 110 volt but that does not always mean they used a 125V rated fuse.

Mainframe · 06-08-2016, 08:32 AM

I can check mine tonight after work.

rockfordroo · 06-08-2016, 08:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

What I need to know is it 125V or 250V rated which will be stamped on one end of the fuse. I know the fridge operates on 110 volt but that does not always mean they used a 125V rated fuse.

I'll bet they use whichever one they can get the cheapest!

Mr Havercamp · 06-08-2016, 08:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

I'll bet they use whichever one they can get the cheapest!

Probably so, I sent them an email and they sent back a part number for it. 5A 250V .250 X 1.250????????????????????????

The fuse/holder is 5mm X 20mm

It was like pulling teeth getting them to send me the parts breakdowns which is usually easy stuff to find on their website. So if anyone ever needs it PM me. I had one hell of a time finding the correct AC element for it and every parts dept I talked with was also clueless on it.

Mainframe · 06-08-2016, 08:38 PM

Didn't get home until after dark. Gonna try tomorrow.

RCCS · 06-08-2016, 09:51 PM

Mr Havercamp, you already have the answer you need from the part number they sent you. Your fuse should be a 5amp, 250volt, 1/4"x1 1/4" fuse. ( 5A = 5amp, 250V= 250 volts, .250= 1/4", and 1.250= 1 1/4"

Mr Havercamp · 06-08-2016, 11:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCCS

Mr Havercamp, you already have the answer you need from the part number they sent you. Your fuse should be a 5amp, 250volt, 1/4"x1 1/4" fuse. ( 5A = 5amp, 250V= 250 volts, .250= 1/4", and 1.250= 1 1/4"

No...that is one of the problems. The fuse is 5mm x20mm or roughly 3/16x3/4 not the size in the part number.. i dont think I can jam a 1/4 x 1 1/4 into that holder lol. When the fuse blew I went to radioshack and grabbed 125:v but now am wondering if they should have been 250v. Pulled the old and tossed it like a dumbass without looking.at it for the volt rating

Dometic is making or having these DRM fridges made in China and its very evident the support people are lost regarding them. I spent an hour at an RV dealer parts counter while the manager made phone calls to his distributors and Dometic trying to get the correct part number for the AC element. Finally had success, or so we thought and ordered one......its wrong.

Later I pulled the bad one and then received a response to my email to Dometic with the correct part number and a pdf of the parts breakdowns which are not on Dometics website like all their other fridges. No one has the AC element in stock. I finally found a couple in Oregon and I'm in PA. Normally a Dometic element is $30, these will cost you almost double with shipping.

Dometic calls this the "Renaissance Series". Perhaps it should be called the cheap series or the Pita series. I can see me replacing this entire fridge in the future. When I look at the cooling unit compared to my last Atwood fridge in my 2013 that we sold, this thing screams cheap loudly. It will probably last a few days longer than the warranty and then implode.

stevejahr · 06-08-2016, 11:43 PM

I think you are getting way too analytical here and I doubt very much it matters one iota. This is only protecting a 12V circuit so either voltage is way above the requirement. The 5A is the important number here. If you have a fuse that is 5A and fits I would run it and not look back.

Having opened up the cover on mine just the other day... I can tell you the latches on that cover are a PIA to get unhooked. Then the cover is not easy to open or close as they were afraid to allow any slack in those wires at all.

Mr Havercamp · 06-09-2016, 04:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stevejahr

I think you are getting way too analytical here and I doubt very much it matters one iota. This is only protecting a 12V circuit so either voltage is way above the requirement. The 5A is the important number here. If you have a fuse that is 5A and fits I would run it and not look back.

Having opened up the cover on mine just the other day... I can tell you the latches on that cover are a PIA to get unhooked. Then the cover is not easy to open or close as they were afraid to allow any slack in those wires at all.

It does matter, the glass fuse I'm talking about is for the AC side of the power board for the AC heating element, not the 12volt side which is protected by its own seperate 5amp plastic mini blade fuse on the left side of the board. Ac voltage can vary, I've seen my progressive EMS without going into protection mode show park voltage as low as 107 and as high as 135 which is where the 250V fuse rating could come into play. I am betting that's what was originally in the board.

Don't discount the 12 volt side, that's the expensive side of the board so I would suggest using a 5A blade fuse rated exactly for that and not put in any 5amp and go with it but then again its your fridge so whatever floats your boat. The 12volt side is what cooks when you lose a board and these DMR702 boards are @ $300 if you can even find one in stock. The AC fuse I am talking about is only for power to the AC heating element relay for the heating element itself.

I can get my plastic cover open easily. Is your fridge the DMR702?

Mainframe · 06-09-2016, 07:16 AM

T5AL250V

It also has a L with a F inside the L in f in front of the fuse number but I think that might be the maker's logo. Is LF a fuse maker?

5picker · 06-09-2016, 07:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mainframe

T5AL250V

It also has a L with a F inside the L in f in front of the fuse number but I think that might be the maker's logo. Is LF a fuse maker?

Yes... LittelFuse.

Mainframe · 06-09-2016, 07:22 AM

Here is what it looks like

Mr Havercamp · 06-09-2016, 07:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mainframe

T5AL250V

It also has a L with a F inside the L in f in front of the fuse number but I think that might be the maker's logo. Is LF a fuse maker?

LF = Littelfuse....................I think.

Thanks a million. I figured it would be 250V rated. And its slow blow. A package of those would be a good thing to keep on hand and I also purchased a spare AC element. The T5AL fuses are 82 cents each at Digikey online, probably $8 at an RV dealer

0218005. - 218 Series - 5x20mm Fuses Cartridge Fuses from Fuses - Littelfuse

5picker · 06-09-2016, 07:32 AM

Specs on the Littelfuse web page **HERE**

wmutkelaw · 06-09-2016, 11:56 AM

Havercamp, I swear if anything could go wrong for you, it has.

Sorry you have such a struggle. I hope my experience goes better. However, I have learned a lot from your trials and tribulations.

Drenjoey · 06-09-2016, 04:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wmutkelaw

Havercamp, I swear if anything could go wrong for you, it has.

Sorry you have such a struggle. I hope my experience goes better. However, I have learned a lot from your trials and tribulations.

Not sure but I think Mr Havercamp handed up with the worst Roo has to offer. Maybe he should have kept the first one !!!
I'm really sorry you're going through all those problems !

Mr Havercamp · 06-09-2016, 04:34 PM

Well were actually pretty happy with it. Other than some minor cosmetic things our issues were.......

The water tank supports. Now fixed and another tank added. I bet I have the only 23WS with a 78 gallon water capacity.

The fridge AC element shorting out.

The microwave went poof.

I think thats it. We spent 10 nights in it and I think I have all issues solved. Rockwood told me to take the microwave back to the dealer and have them submit for a replacement and have them submit the receipts for the fridge element and they'll reimburse me. I'm good with that.

I'm heavy into mods. Seelevel 2 tank monitors sitting here. I Have the progressive ems installed. Have new lights that are individually switched and lights for under the cabinets. Looking forward to another 10 night trip the 4th. OCs brackets and Turbs poles were awesome. They took a few good tstorms over that last trip without so much as a concern.

Believe me........I want nothing to do with that first trailer.

Two things that are eating at me though are the black awning. When its in the sun and you're sitting under it you roast in the radiant heat. The other thing is the outside storage for longer items such as chairs but I'll figure it out. May need another door on the end of rear storage / side of trailer.

**Bama Rambler** · 06-10-2016, 08:59 AM

You can use a fuse with a larger voltage rating (within reason) but not very much smaller. This has to do with the arc created upon opening. If the voltage rating is much too small the fuse can sustain an arc when it blows and continue to conduct, acting like the fuse never blew. As long as the voltage rating is at or above the supply voltage the fuse will extinguish the arc shortly after opening.

The parameters you need to pay particular attention to are the rated amperage, time constant (fast vs. slow blow) and whether is designed for AC or DC voltage.

Mr Havercamp · 06-10-2016, 09:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Bama Rambler

You can use a fuse with a larger voltage rating (within reason) but not very much smaller. This has to do with the arc created upon opening. If the voltage rating is much too small the fuse can sustain an arc when it blows and continue to conduct, acting like the fuse never blew. As long as the voltage rating is at or above the supply voltage the fuse will extinguish the arc shortly after opening.

The parameters you need to pay particular attention to are the rated amperage, time constant (fast vs. slow blow) and whether is designed for AC or DC voltage.

Thanks, I think the slow or fast blow could be important since it is for the heating element? I just want to not have to deal with blowing fuses and spend my time dealing with beer.

Its concerning that Dometic could not tell me the size, and what info they did send me was incorrect. The Dometic fridges we have had in the past always had lots of information and the parts breakdowns and other service info in the manual or availible on their website. Not so for this new and improved imported model. I hope this does not become the status quo for them?

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