Noob water heater question 2014 233s

[thestrangebrew]

Really noob question but how do I determine if I've got water in my water heater to use it? Been reading you don't want to run the heater w/o water because it can fry the anode, but how do I know there's water in there to begin with? Also, just want to verify that if I want to use the hot water, the bypass needs to be turned perpendicular to the line, while hot & cold are turned to be "parallel" to their respective lines? Or should the bypass valve be turned parallel to the line as well? Thanks.

[onetonford]

open hot water tap on sink and run until all air is out make sure your bypass valve is off or perpendicular and the other two valves parallel. and you should be good to go.

[thestrangebrew]

So if I turn on the hot water tap and water comes out (regardless of temp), I know I've got water in the heater, and I would just flip my water heater switch and hot water will eventually come out if working correctly? Sorry, like I said, straight up noob to trailers. I've only had this for a week and at my pdi, the tech went over this stuff but I'm just now having some free time to play with the trailer.

[onetonford]

yes once you bleed out all the air it is full and ready to turn on . Should only take about 1/2 to 1 hour to heat up completely on propane.

[TURBS]

Nope.
The only true way is to open the relief valve on the water heater.
The bypass valve handle has been known to turn but the actual valve inside doesn't.


TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

[TURBS]

Turning on the hot water Tap may be a false indication that there's water in the tank.
Here's a pic.

I open this while filling tank to bleed air and make sure it's full.

TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

[BiigDaddy]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Turning on the hot water Tap may be a false indication that there's water in the tank.
Here's a pic.

I open this while filling tank to bleed air and make sure it's full.

TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

X2...

[OldCoot]

X2 FT Turbs.

[youroo]

It is possible to have water at (Hot?) outlets while the (Tank is empty! It is possible to have (Water) in the (Tank) but NO flow thru the tank! A empty tank will not hurt the (Anode)! The (Bypass Valves) must be oriented correctly for proper Flow. There are many Pics. in Search of this! Youroo!!

[KyDan]

You're on the right track. The bypass must be shut.
(handle cross ways with the line)
It's remotely possible the handle might break and
you turn it and the valve does not shut.

If the bypess valve happens to be open- it lets
water bypass the (empty?) WH tank and you will
still get water out of the "hot" faucet but the tank
might be empty.....
The only TRUE way to know the WH has water
is to pull the handle on the "pop off valve".

ME-- in spring when I'm un-winterizing, I turn the
bypass valve off and open the other one.
Some trailers actually have 1 or 2 or 3 winterizing
valves! (It's not magic- they use check valves
in various configurations to get it done.)
Once I have the valves in summer mode- I
connect to city water (or fill the fresh tank and
turn on the water pump) and open the hot
faucet at the kitchen sink and let the air out.
If you do this and get some pink antifreeze and then
lots and lots of air then finally water- you know
the HW tank has filled.
I hate to pull the pop off valve handle because they
have been known to drip after doing that.
Others say you should pull it every so often to be
sure it's not stuck.....

Finally- I usually remove the faucet aerator because
sometimes there are white flakes in the water
heater tank and those often clog the aerator.
If you ever get a faucet suddenly with low flow
check the aerator for debris.
Once I've flushed the lines I replace the aerators.

Hope this is clear as mud!!
Good luck and Happy Camping!

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by youroo

It is possible to have water at (Hot?) outlets while the (Tank is empty! It is possible to have (Water) in the (Tank) but NO flow thru the tank! A empty tank will not hurt the (Anode)! The (Bypass Valves) must be oriented correctly for proper Flow. There are many Pics. in Search of this! Youroo!!

I know op said anode, but I think he meant elec. heating element. Noob error.

[wmtire]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Turning on the hot water Tap may be a false indication that there's water in the tank.
Here's a pic.

I open this while filling tank to bleed air and make sure it's full.

TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

It looks like you've gotten a lot of good advice from experienced members here.

+4. If the bypass valve (which ties the cold water line into the hot water line) has been set for winter mode, or is faulty....you WILL get water out of the tap when turning the hot water tap on....but it's coming from the cold water line and not the heater tank. This is a false indication of there being water in the heater itself.

Also, if you do turn on the electrical heating ELEMENT, when there is no water inside the heater, it will burn itself out. I think you confused the term and said anode. The anode rod is a different animal, and is a rod that goes inside Suburban brand water heaters, that keeps the tank from rusting out.

Once you gain experience and know for sure all about the bypass valves and such, you probably can just turn on the hot water tap to see if water comes out as an indication of there being water inside the heater. BUT the only 100% sure way, and safe practice technique, is to do as Turbs pointed out.

I do need to add, that you must be hooked up to either a city water supply, or have a pump pressurized system in order for water to come out of the pressure relief valve as KyDan pointed out.. If you just walked out to your camper and opened the pressure relief, with no form of pressure going to the water heater, you probably wouldn't get much water to come out, even if the heater tank is full. The pressure relief valve is at the TOP of the tank, so without pressure, gravity will work against you.... and not push water out the valve.

[Ford Idaho]

Originally Posted by f1100turbo

Nope.
The only true way is to open the relief valve on the water heater.
The bypass valve handle has been known to turn but the actual valve inside doesn't.


TURBS


"Sabre owners united"

+5

I use the PR valve as well would not want to replace any elements right now.

[thestrangebrew]

Thanks everyone! Sorry for the wrong terminology! I'll use the PR valve when hooked up to make sure it's full before I run it. It took me awhile to find the bypass valve last night. Finally found it between the front bunk and sofa, behind the water heater, but also behind a false wall that had 3 screws. You guys have been great!

[rockfordroo]

Another option is to run it on propane until your sure you've got hot water, then turn on the electric.

[crunchman12001]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

X2 FT Turbs.

X6

[Radio]

This thread:

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ters-2686.html

has a lot of discussion about the water heater controls and valves on the outside of the trailer. You will want to open the overpressure valve and leave it open until the water heater fills up. It's faster this way, and more certain, that opening a faucet inside the trailer, plus you don't fill up your galley/grey tanks.

Here's a pic of a typical water heater:

[rbq]

Strangebrew,
Just a hint on your 233S. The easiest way I've found to get to the water heater valves is to roll the sofa back over & put the leg down. You can then lift up on the sofa bottom & it will lift up. Three ways to get into that storage compartment, outside, inside & by lifting the sofa bottom. You can then see down & reach the HW valves easily.

[Herk7769]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Another option is to run it on propane until your sure you've got hot water, then turn on the electric.

Trying to run on propane with an empty water heater might save your AC element, but could ruin your thermostats.

Best to pop the pressure relief valve to make sure it has water in it.

[caper]

Also running the HW tank on propane with no water inside can cause some damage to the tank. I am the second owner of the TT and had to replace the water heater last week (water leaking into trailer). Upon further inspection I noticed that the tank was not welded properly around the PR valve and must have been leaking since day one (minor leak and not noticed inside TT). The water was trapped between the steel tank and the foam insulation. Plus the foam was burnt and burn marks on the bottom of the tank. Looked as if the tank was turned on with no water in it.