portable heater installation

[jrctoby]

I am thinking of rerouting the propane line from the outside grill to the island on my 2016 23ikss. We struggled to keep the camper warm this winter while boondocking. Has anyone tackled this mod? I am thinking of going through the floor below the island to a quick disconnect to attach the portable heater. We used the portable heater for the last trip and all worked great but the 1 lb tanks have several problems, cost and condensation.

[NJKris]

I would say t-ing off of the stove gas supply line would be best. Just make sure you're comfortable with that kind of work and leak check everything, obviously.

[rsdata]

if you connected directly to your heater with a 1# tank, then the heater requires hi-pressure... the quick connect on the trailer only provides low pressure, as the regulator (hi to low pressure conversion is done there) is at the tanks in front.

Maybe your heater is a low-pressure model???

[NJKris]

Don't know about his, but my Mr. Heater Buddy heater takes the 1# tanks, or you can run the 20# hose to it, which has a regulator in the line, so the heater is low pressure. There is a regulator built into the heater for the lb tanks.

[jeff64]

Unless you are running without AC power, I'd consider a WarmGuard WG20 tank blanket from Amazon and extend the Lp runtime in that manner.

[tomkatb]

All propane heaters produce water vapor.

Those things are a little dangerous.

Our central heater works well but does use a lot of lp. One 25 degree night used #10. We have a tank level monitor.

[NJKris]

Although I would never run it unattended or while sleeping, I feel they are pretty safe. You're supposed to crack a window anyway while using, so that should help with the humidity. Never used one inside a camper before though, only my garage.

[rsdata]

Don't know about his, but my Mr. Heater Buddy heater takes the 1# tanks, or you can run the 20# hose to it, which has a regulator in the line, so the heater is low pressure. There is a regulator built into the heater for the lb tanks.

NJKris,

you may be right about the regulator which might be built into the Mr Buddy... but because the regulator is there, it must be hooked to direct 1# bottle pressure (Hi-pressure)... and the 20# adapter hose has no regulator on it, using the inline built-in regulator...

Dangerous? There are several youtube videos dispelling those rumors, although the Mr. Heater instructions do recommend that you crack a window...

here are 3 of a number of youtube reviews about CO potential of Mr Buddy

last link describes plumbing and pressure regulation using propane hi and low pressure lines

https://youtu.be/Ahmlw6wEzXE

https://youtu.be/5vqyfOq0D-8

https://youtu.be/vbWAv7FPPKQ

https://youtu.be/HT9H0EKhxBk

[D W]

Open Flame with an oxygen depleting device in a confined space is a recipe for disaster. They don't call CO the Silent Killer based on rumors.

[NJKris]

DW, normally I would agree, but these units are made for indoor use with a little bit of ventilation as rsdata stated. Plus, there is a CO detector active. Wouldn't bet my life on depending on a CO detector (like sleeping with it on) but these units are routinely used and rated for indoors without issues.

The hose I have for mine has a regulator on it, connects via quick disconnect, so it is not going through two regulators. If I was to use this in a trailer, it would be just to boost the heat up until the built in furnace was able to keep up. My guess is if it is so cold out that your RV furnace can't keep up, it's too damn cold! Stay home! lol.

[D W]

Originally Posted by NJKris

DW, normally I would agree, but these units are made for indoor use with a little bit of ventilation as rsdata stated. Plus, there is a CO detector active. Wouldn't bet my life on depending on a CO detector (like sleeping with it on) but these units are routinely used and rated for indoors without issues.

The hose I have for mine has a regulator on it, connects via quick disconnect, so it is not going through two regulators. If I was to use this in a trailer, it would be just to boost the heat up until the built in furnace was able to keep up. My guess is if it is so cold out that your RV furnace can't keep up, it's too damn cold! Stay home! lol.

Even so, the ventilation required would negate any benefit you'd receive. I also understand that these Buddy type heaters are outlawed in several states.

Your comment about your RV furnace no being able to keep up are my feelings exactly!

[5picker]

Let's give the OP credit they are smart enough to understand any dangers associated with using a propane heater improperly.

They asked for opinions on rerouting the LP line to the sink island and ADMITTED they had used the heater successfully on their last trip but were looking for suggestions on a better way to supply the propane to it.

To the OP... most of those remote quick connect lines are plumbed with rubber hose and could easily be rerouted to the sink island with a little work.

If you have an enclosed underbelly, you may need to drop that but otherwise you should have no issues.

I believe your idea is absolutely legit.

[jrctoby]

Thanks for all the info. The heater runs on a 1lb canister just great but the canister collects frost and leaves a wet mess on the floor. Routing from the stove is an easier idea. We will only be using the heater while awake. Eating, Showering etc. I have worked with gas lines remodeling kitchens.

[Chuck_S]

Let's give the OP credit they are smart enough to understand any dangers associated with using a propane heater improperly.

Forum rules prevent me from commenting on this assumption.

-- Chuck

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by D W

Even so, the ventilation required would negate any benefit you'd receive. I also understand that these Buddy type heaters are outlawed in several states.

Your comment about your RV furnace no being able to keep up are my feelings exactly!

Never heard that. A Buddy heater is really no different than a Camco Olympian Wave heater. The Camco can be either free-standing or can be mounted to the wall. Lots of boondockers use them.

http://www.camco.net/heaters

[joeuncool]

I don't have a 23ikss, so I am not sure of the heat vent locations. I do know in our 233 there is a heater vent in the bathroom that is kind of stupid. The bathroom gets real warm while the back of the trailer remains cool or cold.

If you have a vent in the bathroom, have you thought of a mod to reroute that vent out into the main living area? Several people have done this and report that it improves the warmth in the main living area.

Just thinking about the problem from other angles.