Possible leak 2014 Roo 233S

[NJCamperRoo]

yes i say possible because this is a new to me camper. But i found this problem after we got it home. the back bunk mattress was wet. I called the dealer i got my used 2014 Roo 233S from and they ordered a new mattress for me. At this point i was told i would want to test the area (i guess with a hose) and take it back to the dealer. Now my problem is i can not take it to the dealer as my truck is at the body shop (small dent being fixed).

Now with me really digging for info (should have done this before the buy even more then i did. I came across a couple videos showing bad leaking. Now me i didn't see a sign of a leak. Is there something i can do to really test this out?

[MuddauberE]

Test with a hose while the bunk end is open. Use shower setting to simulate rain. Also test with the bunk end closed. There is a seal going across the top of the bunk door that if not properly adjusted\closed\sealed will leak.

[Keystoner]

Originally Posted by NJCamperRoo

yes i say possible because this is a new to me camper. But i found this problem after we got it home. the back bunk mattress was wet. I called the dealer i got my used 2014 Roo 233S from and they ordered a new mattress for me. At this point i was told i would want to test the area (i guess with a hose) and take it back to the dealer. Now my problem is i can not take it to the dealer as my truck is at the body shop (small dent being fixed).

Now with me really digging for info (should have done this before the buy even more then i did. I came across a couple videos showing bad leaking. Now me i didn't see a sign of a leak. Is there something i can do to really test this out?

I "think" the door seals of all the bunks are installed in three pieces rather than a continous. Depending on how well they are done determines how much water comes in. I used a vinyl repair tape (Tear Aid) to eliminate the gaps shown in my pictures. I also used vinyl house siding "J" channel to make caps that fit over the front of the bunk door and rain channel on the camper body. (Sorry I don't have a picture of that yet.)

If the tape over the gaps doesn't work, I'll go through the dealer for new seals that will hopefully be sold in one continuous piece. I've checked with a couple of seal manufacturers neither of which had anything similar to the profile on mine.

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by Keystoner

I "think" the door seals of all the bunks are installed in three pieces rather than a continous. Depending on how well they are done determines how much water comes in. I used a vinyl repair tape (Tear Aid) to eliminate the gaps shown in my pictures. I also used vinyl house siding "J" channel to make caps that fit over the front of the bunk door and rain channel on the camper body. (Sorry I don't have a picture of that yet.)

If the tape over the gaps doesn't work, I'll go through the dealer for new seals that will hopefully be sold in one continuous piece. I've checked with a couple of seal manufacturers neither of which had anything similar to the profile on mine.

That upper-left corner is where water was getting in with our 21SS as well, I sealed it up the other day.

However, water getting in there shouldn't leak through to the mattress on the inside as that would indicate a leak with the canvas.

[Keystoner]

Correct the water shouldn't get past the tent material unless it can get to the zipper around the windows or to the fabric connection at the trailer. Take a look at my first picture. Behind the tape measure, at 1 3/4 inch you can see the caulking that was the dealer's solution to a leak. I'm thinking of running the Tear Aid, or Eternabond all the way around.

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by NJCamperRoo

Now me i didn't see a sign of a leak. Is there something i can do to really test this out?

If the trailer has a long term leak, you would expect to find some soft spots on the door, the floor, and/or the ceiling. Sometimes leaks are unrelated to the bunk ends - either the ceiling or the clearance lights are other common sources. If you checked again and didn't find any signs of soft spots or water stains, that's a good sign.

The other possibility is leaking through the bunk door due to an issue with the seals OR it could be as simple as the bunk wasn't closed properly at the dealer's lot. If the canvas got pinched in the seal, that would let water in.

And water coming in, or water on the canvas due to it being wet when folded up, will absolutely work its way through the zippers. So that could also explain your wet mattress.

I would take the bedding off, carefully close it up, and hit with a hose. Look for any water intrusion on the inside. This could very well just be operator error by somebody at the dealer not closing it properly.

[benf]

I brought my 2018 roo home in January and the first warm spell I noticed water in the shelf in the front bunk. I opened up the ends and found ice in every one of my bunk ends where the tent material scoops down. I also didn’t notice it when i picked it up but the the tent material was dirty with some mold build up on the outside.

Long story short there was a gap in my seal as described above that i placed some silicone in but the main issue was the roto locks were not tight enough at all. My surveyor had a j channel above each bunk end to prevent water running in but the roo design doesn’t. I tightened my latches each 2 turns and haven’t had a drop of ice or water in any bunk end since. I feel like sometimes we know more than the freaking dealers. Ugh.
With a little scrubbing it will be as good as new this spring and the little water that was getting in didn’t affect the floor or door so all good. Check your latches and tighten them 2 turns if needed!

[hybridlife]

I noticed the separation on the bunk end seals like the photos above and used a silicone to fill the gaps on our 21SS. Haven't noticed any issues and didn't notice any prior, just thought it made sense to tie the 3 seals together and not have any gaps.

m

[rsdata]

I called the dealer i got my used 2014 Roo 233S from and they ordered a new mattress for me.

good for you... but if the canvas part of the tent end is zipped shut and properly waterproofed with some fabric waterproofing once a year ( it does wear out) then no water will leak through to the bunk... even through the zipper...

I think that a properly sealed up bunk end from 2013 models up WILL leak in heavy rains/long storage periods a little... I say a cup or two of water max... and it should pool on the vinyl tent top with no possibility of leakage thru to the mattress.

Also check out this thread post #19 on tent maintenance...

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ng-153886.html

Plus mold stain problems I wrote about here...

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ot-134959.html

I hope this info helps those new hybrid owners.

[KMP44]

Originally Posted by rsdata

if the canvas part of the tent end is zipped shut and properly waterproofed with some fabric waterproofing once a year ( it does wear out) then no water will leak through to the bunk... even through the zipper...

I think that a properly sealed up bunk end from 2013 models up WILL leak in heavy rains/long storage periods a little... I say a cup or two of water max... and it should pool on the vinyl tent top with no possibility of leakage thru to the mattress.

Gotta disagree on both counts. A properly sealed bunk end will not leak at all. Ours has never leaked in 5+ years of sitting out in the weather.

But when the tenting is laying flat (when I have it collapsed to clean the outside of the canvas) water will absolutely, 100%, get through the zipper. Its done that every time I've cleaned the canvas or when folding the ends up in heavy rain. The flap that covers the zipper prevents this when the support poles are in, but when the canvas isn't upright, water runs under that flap and through the zipper.

If water got into the OP's tent end through the seal, either because the canvas was pinched or the seal was not cut right, its likely water got through the zipper.

[rsdata]

KMP44

Its done that every time I've cleaned the canvas or when folding the ends up in heavy rain.

cleaning the canvas does destroy the water-repellent character of the fabric...

I typically clean it with the Home Armor 2X Mold Spray and that stuff is quite harsh, but gets the canvas back to white.

I use the 303 Fabric Guard spray once or twice a year, (lightly) on both sides of the canvas, and of course some gets on the zipper and this will make both just about impervious to water leakage... at least it has for me. I hate having to sleep in an overnight rain and feeling damp canvas near my pillow. The waterproofing spray does not allow that to happen.

I also go through times that no water enters the bunk end. I store under cover so that is not an issue. Driving especially in heavy rain I will usually (not always) find a cup of water in usually the front bunk, and never the rear bunk, so I attribute that to driving in rain with hurricane wind speeds driving the rain past the seals. It does not upset but I have read some posts that think that must just not be right. As it has not harmed my camper or mattress, even after coming home (in the rain), parking and not checking the bunk end for some time, then finding water in the bunk. If the seals are not flattened due to excess pressure being applied or some other factor like having fabric between the door end and seal leaving a gap, then you are right, there should be no leakage at all... but stuff happens sometimes.

[Keystoner]

I have never heard of waterproofing vinyl fabric, which is what was used on my 21SS bunk ends. I still need to do something to all the stitching at the seams and zippers, as they still weep water after numerous seasonings.

[rsdata]

Keystoner...

I have never heard of waterproofing vinyl fabric

I think some posters use canvas and vinyl interchangably...

My 2014 tent ends are probaby 65% vinyl but the zipper windows are canvas... 2 sides and the front for 3 zipper windows.

I don't have a problem with the vinyl leaking but the canvas gets wet, and in a prolonged or driving rain will begin to soak through, especially if any bed-clothes are up against the zipper window areas. The water will migrate through the canvas and get your bedding wet. The lower 6 inches all around my tent is vinyl, but the windows are canvas.

The canvas on mine if put away wet or even damp from humidity will mildew (black stuff) in a heartbeat, like overnight if it is warm, and so will the threads that stitch the tent sections together especially under the zipper flaps.

I clean the canvas, and under the zipper flaps, and the threads if they are not white with Home Armor 2X Mold spray from Home Depot. This does a great and fast (within a minute) job of removing without scrubbing those black mold spots that you might see on your threads and canvas, and maybe occasionally on the vinyl. Usually the mold starts in a shaded area that is not exposed to the sun to dry it out.

When that canvas gets cleaned that way, you have removed or at least weakened any chemical water repellent capability. I restore it with the 303 Fabric Guard I get on amazon.

This is my story with my 2014 Shamrock 183, 3 bunk model. This routine works for me but other style tent ends or owners may not need or even want to follow this advice.

I have camped in some pretty rainy/humid places and I have to do this routine in order to stay dry for the usually 7-14 days up to 3 months I camp at any one time. I am retired... so I don't do weekends.

[bikendan]

I believe that it's considered vinylized canvas.
Canvas on the inside and vinyl on the outside.

I've never heard of waterproofing the outside of the tent.
Just the seams and the non-vinylized canvas windows.

I had my Roo for 10 years and NEVER had to "waterproof" the tent end.
Never had a leak.

Did have condensation under the mattresses.
But that wasn't a tent end issue.

[Keystoner]

The tent ends are naugahyde.

[rockfordroo]

Originally Posted by Keystoner

The tent ends are naugahyde.

"My chair is upholstered in real Naugahyde;
When they killed that nauga, I sat down and cried."

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4JIts1xIalg

[DieselDrax]

Originally Posted by Keystoner

The tent ends are naugahyde.

...which is vinyl-covered fabric...

[Velosprout]

To the OP, if there is any leaking in the seals of the fold-up doors, follow the instructions found in other threads for preventing further leakage. That water is getting in the first place is the problem. If there is too much leakage, or if the inner vinyl fabric is folded just so, that the water runs to the corners where the seams meet the corners of the bed, it will enter the camper and get the mattress moist and cause structural damage and mold/mildew.

As a further assurance of dry camper, I recommend seeking permanent indoor storage of the Roo when not camping. I rented indoor storage during the winter, but it had to sit outside during the summers in my driveway while not at the campground or on the road. Last fall I had a RV garage built, so the Roo is protected from leaks, mold, mildew, sun fading, snow, pine needles and water intrusion all-year around except for when camping. And, when camping, I will notice immediately if there is any problems and they can be addressed promptly. An RV garage or RV carport-type structure provides great protection.

[rsdata]

bikendan...

I've never heard of waterproofing the outside of the tent.

I respect your vast knowledge, but my tent zipper windows are canvas... I know canvas when I see it and I know plastic or vinyl when I see i t also...

the windows on my Shamrock are cloth...

I've never heard of waterproofing the outside of the tent.
Just the seams and the non-vinylized canvas windows.

Just like YOU said in your post "the non-vinylized canvas windows"...

I do NOT waterproof the vinyl TOP or zipper surrounds, but I do treat it with 303 Protectent which is made for vinyl, rubber and plastic and contains UV inhibitors...

Are we on the same page now?

[bikendan]

Originally Posted by rsdata

bikendan...



I respect your vast knowledge, but my tent zipper windows are canvas... I know canvas when I see it and I know plastic or vinyl when I see i t also...

the windows on my Shamrock are cloth...



Just like YOU said in your post "the non-vinylized canvas windows"...

I do NOT waterproof the vinyl TOP or zipper surrounds, but I do treat it with 303 Protectent which is made for vinyl, rubber and plastic and contains UV inhibitors...

Are we on the same page now?

Got it.