Refrigerator not getting power

[Trav763]

I have a 2017 183 Roo with a Dometic Fridge. We’re out camping and fridge ran fine on power at the house. It switched it over to propane when we left and when we got to the camp ground there is no power to it. The buttons to turn it on have no power. The fuses behind the fridge appear fine but should I try replacing the fuses anyway? I don’t have a voltage meter, but if I unplug the camper, lights and fans work off the battery.

Anyone have any suggestions?

[ScottBrownstein]

It is not getting 12 volts DC. Check the feed and the fuses.

[Trav763]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

It is not getting 12 volts DC. Check the feed and the fuses.

I am limited to what I can do at the campground. I plan on trying a new fuse once I get home.

Has anyone ever had the control panel on the front of the fridge go bad?

[katkt]

You need a good 12 volt source, to run the fridge on propane. Are you sure your house battery is good, charged, and no disconnected via a switch somewhere?

[Splitshaft]

Originally Posted by Trav763

I am limited to what I can do at the campground. I plan on trying a new fuse once I get home.

Has anyone ever had the control panel on the front of the fridge go bad?

If the Dometic ran on AC at home, it would have had to have been powered by 12V DC too, as otherwise it wouldn’t work on AC. If it is not working on propane, there is most likely a propane problem. If it is not getting 12V power to the terminal block on the back, jumper some 12V power to it. Sure, the “eyebrow” on the front can fail. I think the eyebrow is likely the most reliable and least likely to fail part of the unreliable electronic Dometic refrigerator parts made. The main control board in the back is the one that usually takes a dump first, shortly out of warranty. If you find the main board to be failed, I recommend replacing with a Dinosaur Brand board if available, those are pretty much bullet proof compared to Dometic. Maybe check the propane burner for spider webs. You will likely need a screwdriver to remove some tin to get to the burner to inspect it and always check gas operation before hitting the road.

[Trav763]

The camper is hooked up to main power at the campsite and the fridge has no lights coming on at the front panel. I appreciate the advice. How can I determine if it’s the main control board on the back vs. the panel o the front?

[Splitshaft]

Originally Posted by Trav763

The camper is hooked up to main power at the campsite and the fridge has no lights coming on at the front panel. I appreciate the advice. How can I determine if it’s the main control board on the back vs. the panel o the front?

I am not a Dometic technician, so if I had good 12V power to the terminal block on the back of the refrigerator and the fuses on the board checked good, I would just replace the main board because I have no way of testing it and the eyebrow is more effort to change out. Labor is expensive, so I can afford to spend a bit more on parts. Sometimes I end up with spare parts when I buy ones not needed. Maybe take it to a RV repair shop and they can diagnose exactly where the problem lies.

With shore power, I would likely bypass control board in the field and power the 120V heater element directly, running the refrigerator full cold until repair could be made. However, doing so would take some electrical knowledge. And likely a paper clip and some electrical tape. But that is just me and most folks likely think I am nuts.

[Scrapper]

Since you don't say which model of dometic refrigerator you have, everyone's advice is a shot in the dark. I believe the eyebrow panel gets it's power from the control board via a multi-wire plug. Check that all connections are good on the board. you can find service manuals for dometic on the web and they cover all troubleshooting, even the eyebrow panel. But you are limited in what you can do without a multimeter.

[Joe_GA]

Have you checked your breaker and fuse panel? You could have a fuse blown there and hopefully, a LED light will tell you which one. The other thing to do is ask around the campground for someone knowledgeable with a multimeter to help you. Most folks that know what they are doing will be glad to help.

[ScottBrownstein]

Originally Posted by Joe_GA

...The other thing to do is ask around the campground for someone knowledgeable with a multimeter to help you. Most folks that know what they are doing will be glad to help.

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

[Scrapper]

Those LED's next to fuses may not always light. They may work one time and not another. The best way to check for a blown fuse is to use a multimeter, place the negative lead on a ground and touch both sides of the suspected fuse with the positive lead.

[Scrapper]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

Maybe get a FROG Member or FRF sticker and put it on your name sign or RV. Anyone familiar with either will know they can get help from you. You can get them both by following these links.
FRF stickers: http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...ers-27860.html


FROG Member Sticker: https://premier.four51ordercloud.com/FROG/catalog

[Joe_GA]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

Good idea. I don't mind helping folks and have done so, many times. I'm sure there is someone there that could help.

[dbledan]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

Great idea. I always thought your tool box was the indicator...I frequently bring mine out while camping to do maintainence on the trailer. I enjoy keeping busy with mine or someone else's.

Just ask neighbors if they have a meter.

My uncle had this issue and his was a lose 12v wire from the fan he had installed. Fridge was not getting 12v power and would not run propane or AC. When trying to pull the board things kicked back on because he pulled on the wiring and it came to life.

Good luck!

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

I truly never leave home without a multimeter. I've helped others many times. Also an OBD II code reader.

Larry

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by Scrapper

Those LED's next to fuses may not always light. They may work one time and not another. The best way to check for a blown fuse is to use a multimeter, place the negative lead on a ground and touch both sides of the suspected fuse with the positive lead.

That will work. You can also read the voltage across the fuse while it is in the active circuit.

• Good fuse = a few millivolts
• Blown fuse = 12 volts

Larry

[Trav763]

Thanks for all the feedback, it’s very helpful. We are just here for a long weekend so a cooler has sufficed. I plan on picking up a multi meter when we get home tomorrow and follow through with this advice. The camper is just over it’s year warranty, but I think I’m going to call Dometic and see if they have a longer warranty if it is in fact a bad board.

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by ScottBrownstein

You know, I have always wondered why we don't have a "Block parent" like program, with a sticker on our RVs that implies something like "have meter...will travel" so that RVers who are having trouble can easily see who to ask for help! I know that most of us would be glad to help others in distress.

Because that person would become beset CONSTANTLY with questions and never have any time to themselves, defeating the very idea of "getting away from it all".

[DouglasReid]

Originally Posted by Trav763

Thanks for all the feedback, it’s very helpful. We are just here for a long weekend so a cooler has sufficed. I plan on picking up a multi meter when we get home tomorrow and follow through with this advice. The camper is just over it’s year warranty, but I think I’m going to call Dometic and see if they have a longer warranty if it is in fact a bad board.

If you really want to get some sound advice, from a qualified and knowledgeable source click on the following:

Tips & Troubleshooting Page

It is a link to a troubleshooting page on the Dinosaur Electronics site. These people will be happy to provide you with help and if necessary the boards to repair you unit if that is what you need.

I have personally used their equipment and it is less expensive, better built and more reliable than the factory boards.

[Larry-NC]

Originally Posted by DouglasReid

Because that person would become beset CONSTANTLY with questions and never have any time to themselves, defeating the very idea of "getting away from it all".

"Sure! I'll help you fix the water heater. Would you mind sweeping my deck when we're done?"

Larry