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Old 12-13-2016, 09:16 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DouglasReid View Post
You did not mention the tire pressure in the tires that blew or when you checked them last.

They should be aired up to the Maximum rating on the sidewall and kept there. Low pressure leads to overheating and blowouts.

Im not saying this was your trouble, but your not describing the pressures of the tires makes me wonder, and want to help by educating.
I believe the tire pressure is 50 psi. And I pumped all the tires up right before I drove off from my home. I remember I kept thinking why the tires blew out, and I ended up guessing that I might have pumped too much air because my $3 tire gauge has 50 max, meaning higher than 50 would be off the mark. Did I tip off the max? I doubt it, though I surprised myself more than once by how dumb I was (I'll save those stories for other threads). My little Campbell Hausfeld air compressor is always 6 psi more than the actual, so I should know where to stop. Definitely not low in pressure.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:16 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lyh64 View Post
I believe the tire pressure is 50 psi. And I pumped all the tires up right before I drove off from my home. I remember I kept thinking why the tires blew out, and I ended up guessing that I might have pumped too much air because my $3 tire gauge has 50 max, meaning higher than 50 would be off the mark. Did I tip off the max? I doubt it, though I surprised myself more than once by how dumb I was (I'll save those stories for other threads). My little Campbell Hausfeld air compressor is always 6 psi more than the actual, so I should know where to stop. Definitely not low in pressure.
Any gauge is most accurate at the half way point. So if you want to measure 50 PSI you should have a 100 PSI gauge. Don't skimp on the gauge. Buy a good one. I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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2021 Jayco Melbourne 24L
Olmsted Township, OH
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:45 AM   #23
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"These stock tiles were five years old but with not much tread wear due to low use. I was told by the tire shop that these tires need to be replaced in 4 years regardless."

Looks like you are learning the hard way.

Many members advocate getting rid of stock trailer tires and upgrading them to better tires immediately for entry level units. Pays to read through/research the forums on this subject.

Regardless, industry standard for replacing quality tires is between 5 to 7 years. Like payload, you have your advocates who ignore industry recommendations.

As to tires, the basic problem is lack of use. Tires have protectives on the inside that when the RV is driven squeeze out and lubricate the tires.

For an auto tire that is moved regularly you can replace based on measuring depth of tread and other factors. For RVs, since the tire is deteriorating on the inside, you can have it pulled and checked, but the damage from a failed tire is high on my list to avoid, so buy quality tires, tires that are over-rated for your load, inflate properly, have TPMS sensors installed, and replace based on years, not tread wear.

Or join the we know better group.
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Old 12-14-2016, 05:31 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
RV insurance on a trailer is usually cheap. Our has not gone up for 5 years and that was on 2 different trailers. We pay $212 a year and that includes a declared replacement value.

That is through Progressive and I agree, its not usually a good experience dealing with any of these companies. I did 9K in damage to the front of my 2015 GMC and had "accident forgiveness" which they tout in all the commercials with the ugly woman in the white smock. Sounds great doesn't it? They were great on the claim and repair, got to give them credit there. Next renewal the rate increased by a about 26% so I called my agent and asked WTF. Turns out my rate did not increase but I lost the "accident free" and "safe driver" discounts. To me when the price go's up thats a rate increase but it isn't to them, it's a loss of discounts.

I stayed with them regardless as now that I have to report that accident for 3 years when shopping insurance. I can not find anything even close on premiums even with the increase due to loss of discounts. There is not a good company out there IMO but you have to have it.
I do have great service with AARP. Four years ago, a tree fell and went through my first hybrid, and also damaged my Ram pickup truck. The camper was totaled. They gave me 12,500 for the camper which I paid 11,500 two years earlier.....and the truck had 7,000 damage. Everything was paid and fixed in two weeks........and my rate didn't go up.
As for Progressive, believe it or not, my son-in-law works for them (12 years) and he's insured with Liberty Mutual ....cheaper !!!
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:10 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
I wish I would of had a tree fall on it. Did that happen in your yard? In that situation mine would have been covered under my homeowners.
It did happen in my driveway, and they used my car insurance.
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Old 12-15-2016, 05:13 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Drenjoey View Post
It did happen in my driveway, and they used my car insurance.

Ooooops tried to edit the post and deleted it....

I guess its all in how the policy is written. Odd the auto insurance covered the hybrid..........was it hooked to the truck at the time? What a joke all these insurance companies are.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:40 AM   #27
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Location: SE Michigan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itat View Post
Cooper makes large semi-trailer tires (didn't see any ST tires on their website) and the Firestone model you noted is a winter car/truck radial, neither of which is appropriate for the OP's hybrid TT. If you are aware of a ST trailer tire made in the USA or Canada today let us know because many would be interested.
I run 10 ply LT tires on everything, truck, and trailer. No exceptions. The post was about tire origin not size / rating anyway. The Op stated all tires were made offshore, that is not true.
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Old 12-15-2016, 10:43 AM   #28
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Insurance companies are in business to make money, they are not non-profit entities. People tend to disregard that.

Some of the best and stable stock you can invest in is insurance company stock 'cause it's a product everyone needs at some point.
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Old 12-15-2016, 11:10 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by SidecarFlip View Post
Insurance companies are in business to make money, they are not non-profit entities. People tend to disregard that.

Some of the best and stable stock you can invest in is insurance company stock 'cause it's a product everyone needs at some point.

Its not so much they are in business to make a profit, that's understandable as so am I. The problem I have is the underhanded way they go about it. Just give me the rate and I'll pay it. Forget about the safe driver discount, the accident free discount, the multi car discount, The homeowner discount, the continuous insurance discount, the sign documents online discount, the pay in full discount, the automatic bill pay discount, the good student discount, the minor child driver discount, the discount for qualifying for so many discounts, etc etc etc.

Give me a real number.

Just tell me my rate and give me a surcharge schedule of what that rate will increase should I have a chargeable accident for Petes sake.
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Old 12-16-2016, 06:42 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
Ooooops tried to edit the post and deleted it....

I guess its all in how the policy is written. Odd the auto insurance covered the hybrid..........was it hooked to the truck at the time? What a joke all these insurance companies are.
The hybrid was parked in a corner of the driveway,
and the truck just beside it.....They weren't connected.
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