Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-25-2016, 03:06 PM   #11
Senior Member
 
Crusader 816's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 155
I ended up buying mine from a guy off this site that he had already purchased them from forest river. I ended up getting a great price for them which came with everything doors frames weatherstripping and the new edging too. Shipped.
__________________

Crusader 816 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 03:09 PM   #12
Senior Member
 
Crusader 816's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 155
Mine has the gutter above the doors so I ended up making the pvc water protectors and I have not had a drop of water since. Best thing I ever did.
__________________

Crusader 816 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 06:53 PM   #13
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
To be honest i can't remember if it has gutters the trailer has been in storage in a barn since October . While I have been there to work on it when the weather was warmer I haven't been there to work on it for some time. I think it has gutters.
Bagelman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-25-2016, 07:36 PM   #14
Canadian Member
 
itat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Eastern GTA, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,554
Your 2008 will have the gutter above the doors. Sounds like they may have sent you the "cores" like they did for me. They shipped the parts to a local dealer and I had the dealer install them. They had to transfer the old hinge to the new cores. The dealer did a better job than the original factory installation but the biggest issue in my case was the screws that secured the bed door frames. They weren't screwed in straight and the screw heads weren't flush which prevented a tight seal between the frame and the white pinch welt seals on the door edges.
__________________
2011 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8293SS, 12K Equal-i-zer WDH
2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed, 3.73, w/ snow plow & camper pkgs.
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
2009 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew, 5.4L, 5'6" bed (2012 - 2016)

itat is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-26-2016, 08:09 AM   #15
Senior Member
 
Crusader 816's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Illinois
Posts: 155
Yes that was my concern to with the screws so I went and bought a different style screw and I got them in stainless so they wouldn't rust. They all sat flush so no pinching of the seals.
Crusader 816 is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2016, 12:42 PM   #16
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Posts: 12
I do have gutters above the bed opening and I probably install extensions. The replacement went well the hardest part was removing the old sealant from the hinge. I can now finish replacing the seals and getting the rest ship shape for camping. Hope to get out in may. thanks all
Bagelman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2016, 01:04 PM   #17
Senior Member
 
MiCamper6's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Michigan
Posts: 250
AWESOME! Good luck, and good camping!!
MiCamper6 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-28-2016, 07:45 PM   #18
Senior Member
 
fedrocker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Posts: 145
Keeping water from collecting at the hinge is the key - on the front bunk door.


2011 Rockwood Roo 233s
2007 Tundra Crewmax, 5.7
fedrocker is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-29-2016, 07:26 PM   #19
Senior Member
 
ebemis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Central Florida
Posts: 146
Bagleman..You are simply AWESOME taking this project on good luck!!

From what I understand, that "tape" you mentioned getting is used/sandwiched between the aluminum frames and side-walls the frames screw into. If you were to take any of the aluminum "edges" off your rig, you would find that stuff behind them...its sticky and will mean your removal of aluminum edge rails will not occur without completely bending and damaging them beyond re-use! ...don't ask me why I know this to be true :-(

My guess would be when you remove your current bunk end frame, you will find that tape there...it almost looks like plumbers putty. From my experience, when you place it back in it will help hold and seal things up as you screw the new frame into place. My recommendation would be some high quality RV sealant (Dicor made for walls?) to seal the joint between your frame's and sidewalls when your done and you shouldn't have any future water leaks. Like others have said, I can swear I read a story of someone doing this themselves but the only Goole searches I could find were people having dealers do it. My thoughts are as long as you take your time, there should be no reason why with help you won't end up better off than you were previously!

If your open to it and inclined to do so, I am sure there are plenty of folks on here that would LOVE to see pictures and stories of your effort!! hint hint ;-)
__________________
Ed & Chris
Josh & Jaclyn
2012 Suburban LTZ
2013 Rockwood Roo 233S
ebemis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2016, 08:16 PM   #20
Member
 
jpgowin's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Salida,CA.
Posts: 47
Found this link for a 2013 post from a member that replaced his bunk ends and installed them himself.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/forums/f46/bunk-leaks-again-and-again-43183.html
__________________

__________________

2009 Roo 23ss
2014 Nissan Armada
Former Trailer - '99 Coleman Niagara
Me, Wife, 5 daughters, 4 grandkids
jpgowin is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
bunk, roo

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off



» Featured Campgrounds

Reviews provided by


Disclaimer:

This website is not affiliated with or endorsed by Forest River, Inc. or any of its affiliates. This is an independent, unofficial site.




Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:07 AM.