Side to side leveling

[levert]

I used Anderson Levelers until last week. They were great and easy to use. Unfortunately mine both broke at about the mid point. My 5r weighs about 12K. The advertising say good up to 30K.

[dennisewitte]

I have two sets of the Lynx blocks. They can be used in so many ways (1) soft ground pad under levelers, (2) building a multilevel ramp for leveling side to side, and (3) a multilevel ramp for changing a tire. Have done each of these in the last several months.

[windsurfdog]

+2 ^ for exactly the same reasons...multiple uses of same blocks.

[tomrob1161]

A problem with side to side leveling, I guess as a result of the Torflex axle, which seems to give a softer ride for the trailer, but doesn't seem to support the trailer as well with the slides extended. You get the trailer level side to side, let out the slides then the side with the slides is lower. You have to plan ahead and have the slide side a little higher to compensate for it dropping after the slides are extended.

[nodrawers]

I also use the Anderson levelers and find them ok for paved spaces with little side to side variation side to side. I boondock a lot and they are worthless. Burry into ground slide or sink after set up. I find a five foot long 2X8 and several foot long 2X6 blocks that can be placed under the end to create a wedge. Just pull up until level, chock & unhook. The 2X6 can be used under stabilizing jacks, tongue or where ever you need some support.

[wahoonc]

Used a variety of wooden blocks for years, bought some of the first Lynx levelers to hit the market, current set is over 15 years old and still in use. I used the small levels on the front end of the trailer, one block per mark and you are good to go. Currently have a motor home, picked up a second set of Lynx Levelers for the dual wheels, I have leveling jacks, but still like having something under the wheels on the really out of level campsites.

Aaron

[syogerst]

Wahoonc that's exactly what we do too. When I learned the marks on the level were 1 inch, it was so easy.

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[keith_h]

I leveled my trailer in the drive and affixed bubble levels on the front center and over the wheel well. I back the trailer up to where I want it and read the side to side level then pull back forward. With experience I can now determine how many 1x10's or 2x10's I need to put under the low tire pretty much on the first try. To make mine I made each level shorter than the previous leaving enough room so the trailer tire would fully fit on the lower board before going up on the next one.

To keep the black tank as clean as I can I have a clear hose coupling. Also as long as there isn't a back up at the dump station I will refill the tank and dump again after wanding. I do the same for the grey tank except for the wand. If I were to still see stuff after the second fill/dump I would repeat until it was clean but so far the second fill has always taken care of any residual stuff in the tank that the wand didn't get.

[R HEMI]

Another vote for Anderson levelers.

[dgeck56]

Originally Posted by Teamfour

Another vote for Andersen levelers.

Love the Anderson levelers much better than pads or 2 × 6 boards. The DW might actually decide to use one of the boards on me.
Very simple and safe to use. I also suggest you attach small levels on the front and side of your unit to insure the unit is leveled. I also believe you will notice less shifting or rocking when we inside.
2016 Sabre 33CKTS.

[WolfWhistle]

I have the Andersen leveler (2 each) and always carry a piece 4' x 12" (MOL) 3/4" marine plywood. Using the plywood keeps the leveler(s) from sinking into the sod / dirt / gravel and the smooth surface protects the levelers, IMO. If I need to level more than plywood only, I pull forward so the front axle tire is still on the plywood, but just barely; then place two levelers behind each tire on the low side and back up until a second set of eyes tells me I am level, (looking at a stuck on level) then place the chocks to hold them in place. On many tandem axle trailers the tires are too close to fit the Andersen between them, so on those trailers, you can only use one leveler, but it still works, just not as well. When leaving, back up slightly to get the weight off the chocks and pull them out, then go forward off the taper end, not off the high end like the video shows. That also might be how the leveler gets broken ... if jams between the trailer and the ground somehow (if possible). Until I made use of the plywood, I thought these levelers were useless with soft ground; I mean; whats the point of leveling only to have it sink deeper into the earth?

I also have their Rapid Jack... it works the same as the levelers but lifts higher. It seems to me, that using the Rapid Jack would also work for leveling, and save you $$$ using it for both purposes. You would need a chock that the Rapid Jack doesn't include.
WW

[markb422]

Does the trailer not have scissor jacks or stabilizers?
For my MH I use rubber pavers that I bought from a home improvement store. They are made from ground up tires and do not absord moisture like wood does.

[WolfWhistle]

Originally Posted by markb422

Does the trailer not have scissor jacks or stabilizers?
For my MH I use rubber pavers that I bought from a home improvement store. They are made from ground up tires and do not absord moisture like wood does.

Stabilizers are not designed to lift the trailer and will be damaged, if you try.
WW

[wbdavey]

I use 2X8 boards with a 45* bevel cut on the ends and also have noted that the trailer needs at least one board under the slide side to be level even on a perfectly flat driveway. Trick I learned on this forum was to put a 2 foot level on the back bumper, place 1/4" wedges under the low end of the level until it's slightly above level on the slide side. Each wedge requires 1" of wood under the tires on that side.

[john5646]

Anderson levelers are awsome , ( haven't been paid to say that) they just work and work well at what they do. Additionally I feal they cradle the tire and create stability. I have even set up were they were not thick enough so I just rolled from them to solid wood for even more height...

[menekaunee]

Andersen levelers, all day

[SaskCampers]

Originally Posted by tomrob1161

A problem with side to side leveling, I guess as a result of the Torflex axle, which seems to give a softer ride for the trailer, but doesn't seem to support the trailer as well with the slides extended. You get the trailer level side to side, let out the slides then the side with the slides is lower. You have to plan ahead and have the slide side a little higher to compensate for it dropping after the slides are extended.

We have 2 slides on the same side and I always make sure the slide side does sit a bit low, that way when it rains the rain will run to the outer edge of the slide and not try to come in the trailer.

[1Roo4Ladds]

Left over 4X10 cedar beam cut 12" long. Two for levers and one for the tongue jack.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by dgeck56

...I also suggest you attach small levels on the front and side of your unit to insure the unit is leveled. I also believe you will notice less shifting or rocking when we inside.

I mounted the large level on the front of the 5er and can see from the drivers seat how much I need. I usually try to move the trailer to a spot that is pretty close to level. The big level is also adjustable side to side as well as front to back level.

[MuddauberE]

I carry 1x6 decking boards 3 foot long in the back of the trailer. I have 4 of them and never needed more than 3.


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