|
|
03-27-2012, 08:13 AM
|
#21
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
|
Cootr68. Can you cut off the part of your crank handle to fit into your drill? That's essentially what I did.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 09:53 AM
|
#22
|
Drinkin beer on the beach
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 450
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike54
I started out using a 19.2v screw gun but the twisting hurt my wrists then I bought a 24v impact no more twisting work lot better than my screw gun
|
I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.
__________________
2014 Silverado 2500 6.6L TD and 4X4
2011 Carson Standard Duty Car Hauler
2012 Forest River Stealth SK2112
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 10:00 AM
|
#23
|
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Crystal lake,IL
Posts: 248
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rod Johnson
I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.
|
why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 11:25 AM
|
#24
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Rio Grande Valley Texas
Posts: 362
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by cootr68
Ya if it will fit in the chuck. Don't have drill and extension handy at the moment hopefully it will fit in the chuck and won't have to buy a bigger drill. Thanks.
|
Well what do you use to lower them now? Couldn't you cut end off and just stick that in drill chuck
__________________
__________________________________
Ruben Zamora
2007 Silverado 2500HD 4x4 Dmax/Allison, 4" Exhaust-no cat-no muffler
2012 Palomino Puma 23FB
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 11:57 AM
|
#25
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 1,367
|
I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 12:01 PM
|
#26
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by LFugate
I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.
|
Agree that you gotta have a backup. I cut a spare to make mine. Maybe he can buy another off Ebay.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 12:10 PM
|
#27
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
I use a 3/8 in drive, 12 inch extension, that I cut the female end off, and a swivel, plus a socket on the end to raise and lower my stabilizers. You don't have to bend over that much when you use it. The extension fits into my Dewalt drill motor.
|
I took the crank that came with my Puma and make a bracket out of velcro. I mounted it inside on the front stowage compartment, near the light, along with awning rod. I also have a speed handle that I can use for backup on my swivel and socket.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 01:08 PM
|
#28
|
Drinkin beer on the beach
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 450
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by mike54
why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.
|
I'm always boondocking out in the sticks. Sometimes it takes a considerable amount of adjusting to get everything nice and level.
__________________
2014 Silverado 2500 6.6L TD and 4X4
2011 Carson Standard Duty Car Hauler
2012 Forest River Stealth SK2112
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 01:25 PM
|
#29
|
Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Southeast Wisconsin
Posts: 6,949
|
I'm not sure if we are all talking about the same thing. The "stabs" on the trailers I've had were not meant for lifting the trailer in any way; including helping to level it. All those trailers were lightweights, including our current hybrid, though.
I know other trailers such as heavier 5ers have the ability to level through their jacks but those are powered.
Leveling a lightweight TT should be done through blocks and the tongue jack.
__________________
Scott
DW, 3 Kids and our Goldens
2012 Shamrock 233S
2008 Toyota Sequoia 5.7L 4WD
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 01:54 PM
|
#30
|
Drinkin beer on the beach
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Fallbrook, CA
Posts: 450
|
My dealer and several friends all advised a similar process. Get parked as level as possible establish a good level with thetongue jack and rear stab jacks, front to back and left to right. Then use the front jacks for any fine tuning. I'm not lifting the trailer, but there is definetly some unloading in the trailer springs.
I have several 2x6 and 4x6 blocks to drive on, but it has never come to that
__________________
2014 Silverado 2500 6.6L TD and 4X4
2011 Carson Standard Duty Car Hauler
2012 Forest River Stealth SK2112
|
|
|
03-27-2012, 07:34 PM
|
#31
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: central il
Posts: 105
|
Ya think I will buy a spare and rig it up.
__________________
1997 Sierra m-27fls tt
1999 Pontiac T/A
2006 flstn Deluxe
2004 Polaris 330 magnum
Bear the Labrador
|
|
|
03-28-2012, 06:39 PM
|
#33
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
|
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark and Linda
My attachment saves time for me. I keep my drill motor in the right front stowage area...start there and work around the stabilizers.
|
slightly off topic, but still pertaining to sockets - I was wondering what size socket I needed to remove the anode rod in our 29rk water heater when the times comes. After speaking to the dealer, I found it requires a 1 and 1/16" socket. I located one with a 1/2" drive at Sears - a little pricey (about $11) but I now have the right socket when I have to remove the anode rod.
|
|
|
03-28-2012, 08:43 PM
|
#34
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Smyrna, Tennessee
Posts: 445
|
I used a crescent wrench on mine because I didn't have a socket that big, even got my plumbing wrenches out. I put the crescent on it and then used a screw driver through the hole to turn it. Need to get a socket though...will look at Harbor Freight.
__________________
2009 Palomino Puma 25RS
2007 Chevrolet Silverado
Prodigy P2 Brake Controller
|
|
|
03-28-2012, 10:08 PM
|
#35
|
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Keller, Texas
Posts: 6,090
|
M&L - you must have a different set up than I have (not surprising) as I don't have a hole that I need to stick a screwdriver though to turn the rod. It is a straight shot for me - but not having to use a crensent wrench and screwdriver is exactly why I spent the money for the socket.
|
|
|
|
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
|
» Recent Discussions |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|