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Old 03-27-2012, 09:13 AM   #21
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Cootr68. Can you cut off the part of your crank handle to fit into your drill? That's essentially what I did.
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Old 03-27-2012, 10:53 AM   #22
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I started out using a 19.2v screw gun but the twisting hurt my wrists then I bought a 24v impact no more twisting work lot better than my screw gun
I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.
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Old 03-27-2012, 11:00 AM   #23
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I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.

why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:25 PM   #24
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Ya if it will fit in the chuck. Don't have drill and extension handy at the moment hopefully it will fit in the chuck and won't have to buy a bigger drill. Thanks.
Well what do you use to lower them now? Couldn't you cut end off and just stick that in drill chuck
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Old 03-27-2012, 12:57 PM   #25
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I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:01 PM   #26
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I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.
Agree that you gotta have a backup. I cut a spare to make mine. Maybe he can buy another off Ebay.
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Old 03-27-2012, 01:10 PM   #27
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I use a 3/8 in drive, 12 inch extension, that I cut the female end off, and a swivel, plus a socket on the end to raise and lower my stabilizers. You don't have to bend over that much when you use it. The extension fits into my Dewalt drill motor.
I took the crank that came with my Puma and make a bracket out of velcro. I mounted it inside on the front stowage compartment, near the light, along with awning rod. I also have a speed handle that I can use for backup on my swivel and socket.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:08 PM   #28
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why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.
I'm always boondocking out in the sticks. Sometimes it takes a considerable amount of adjusting to get everything nice and level.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:25 PM   #29
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I'm not sure if we are all talking about the same thing. The "stabs" on the trailers I've had were not meant for lifting the trailer in any way; including helping to level it. All those trailers were lightweights, including our current hybrid, though.

I know other trailers such as heavier 5ers have the ability to level through their jacks but those are powered.

Leveling a lightweight TT should be done through blocks and the tongue jack.
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Old 03-27-2012, 02:54 PM   #30
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My dealer and several friends all advised a similar process. Get parked as level as possible establish a good level with thetongue jack and rear stab jacks, front to back and left to right. Then use the front jacks for any fine tuning. I'm not lifting the trailer, but there is definetly some unloading in the trailer springs.

I have several 2x6 and 4x6 blocks to drive on, but it has never come to that
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