Stabilizer Jacks

[Triguy]

Cootr68. Can you cut off the part of your crank handle to fit into your drill? That's essentially what I did.

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by mike54

I started out using a 19.2v screw gun but the twisting hurt my wrists then I bought a 24v impact no more twisting work lot better than my screw gun

I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.

[mike54]

Originally Posted by Rod Johnson

I wondered if you guys were using drills or impact drivers. I do carry an 18V drill, and can't imagine it would do much better than just get the pads to the ground. Final tightening would still need to be done with crank.

why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.

[RubenZ]

Originally Posted by cootr68

Ya if it will fit in the chuck. Don't have drill and extension handy at the moment hopefully it will fit in the chuck and won't have to buy a bigger drill. Thanks.

Well what do you use to lower them now? Couldn't you cut end off and just stick that in drill chuck

[Len & Cheri]

I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by LFugate

I don't think I'd cut off the end of the actual tool. What would you do for a backup if the drill battery dies or stops for whatever reason? I also wonder if his tool is also used for retracting the slide if the motor fails.

Agree that you gotta have a backup. I cut a spare to make mine. Maybe he can buy another off Ebay.

[Mark and Linda]

Originally Posted by Mark and Linda

I use a 3/8 in drive, 12 inch extension, that I cut the female end off, and a swivel, plus a socket on the end to raise and lower my stabilizers. You don't have to bend over that much when you use it. The extension fits into my Dewalt drill motor.

I took the crank that came with my Puma and make a bracket out of velcro. I mounted it inside on the front stowage compartment, near the light, along with awning rod. I also have a speed handle that I can use for backup on my swivel and socket.

[Rod Johnson]

Originally Posted by mike54

why finish with a crank? I just bring them down until they just start to raise the TT.

I'm always boondocking out in the sticks. Sometimes it takes a considerable amount of adjusting to get everything nice and level.

[Triguy]

I'm not sure if we are all talking about the same thing. The "stabs" on the trailers I've had were not meant for lifting the trailer in any way; including helping to level it. All those trailers were lightweights, including our current hybrid, though.

I know other trailers such as heavier 5ers have the ability to level through their jacks but those are powered.

Leveling a lightweight TT should be done through blocks and the tongue jack.

[Rod Johnson]

My dealer and several friends all advised a similar process. Get parked as level as possible establish a good level with thetongue jack and rear stab jacks, front to back and left to right. Then use the front jacks for any fine tuning. I'm not lifting the trailer, but there is definetly some unloading in the trailer springs.

I have several 2x6 and 4x6 blocks to drive on, but it has never come to that

[cootr68]

Ya think I will buy a spare and rig it up.

[pg_rider]

You should be able to find these in several places for ~$6. I got mine at RVW when I was there. You can get it on Amazon for sure: http://www.amazon.com/Camco-57363-Leveling-Scissor-Socket/dp/B001V8U12M/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

[B47]

Originally Posted by Mark and Linda

My attachment saves time for me. I keep my drill motor in the right front stowage area...start there and work around the stabilizers.

slightly off topic, but still pertaining to sockets - I was wondering what size socket I needed to remove the anode rod in our 29rk water heater when the times comes. After speaking to the dealer, I found it requires a 1 and 1/16" socket. I located one with a 1/2" drive at Sears - a little pricey (about $11) but I now have the right socket when I have to remove the anode rod.

[Mark and Linda]

I used a crescent wrench on mine because I didn't have a socket that big, even got my plumbing wrenches out. I put the crescent on it and then used a screw driver through the hole to turn it. Need to get a socket though...will look at Harbor Freight.

[B47]

M&L - you must have a different set up than I have (not surprising) as I don't have a hole that I need to stick a screwdriver though to turn the rod. It is a straight shot for me - but not having to use a crensent wrench and screwdriver is exactly why I spent the money for the socket.