Steep driveway, tough leveling ?

[itat]

Here is a pic of my Roo in my slanted driveway. I need to do a 2 step process using axle stands under the a-frame to get it up to level. I use homemade X-chocks in addition to the those yellow plastic wheel chocks. The wooden stump that the tongue jack sits on is slanted on the bottom side so that the top is nearly level.

[Archicamper]

Originally Posted by itat

Here is a pic of my Roo in my slanted driveway. I need to do a 2 step process using axle stands under the a-frame to get it up to level. I use homemade X-chocks in addition to the those yellow plastic wheel chocks. The wooden stump that the tongue jack sits on is slanted on the bottom side so that the top is nearly level.

That is similar to mine. I was concerned that there was a lot of weight being transferred to the jack when the front end is this high.

[itat]

If it's sitting level, there's no more weight on the jack than when it's on level ground. In my case there may be a bit more weight on the rear axle than the front axle but both are firmly on the ground.

[Archicamper]

Originally Posted by itat

If it's sitting level, there's no more weight on the jack than when it's on level ground. In my case there may be a bit more weight on the rear axle than the front axle but both are firmly on the ground.

I think that if you put a scale under the jack you will find that there is considerable more weight than on level ground. The tongue weight is measured with the trailer on level ground. On a slope, with the tongue in the air, the tongue wants to return to the ground. It takes considerable force to push the front end of the trailer up in the air. The higher you go the more of the trailer weight is transferred to the tongue.

[itat]

If your trailer is sitting with the front pointed down, then yes some weight would be transferred to the tongue jack, but with it sitting level, regardless of whether its on level ground or if the tongue is raised to get it level, there will be the same weight distribution. Simple physics.

Keep in mind that if you have to extend the jack to its limit in order to get the trailer level, then then stress on the jack tube wouldn't be good. That's why I use the stump so that I don't have to extend the jack too far.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by itat

If your trailer is sitting with the front pointed down, then yes some weight would be transferred to the tongue jack, but with it sitting level, regardless of whether its on level ground or if the tongue is raised to get it level, there will be the same weight distribution. Simple physics. Keep in mind that if you have to extend the jack to its limit in order to get the trailer level, then then stress on the jack tube wouldn't be good. That's why I use the stump so that I don't have to extend the jack too far.

If you don't have a groove for that tongue wheel, I would definitely take it off. That's disaster just waiting to happen.IMO

[itat]

OC, that's an old picture. The manual jack with the wheel has been replaced with a Husky Brute 4500 electric jack with an aluminum plate foot. My setup in the driveway is still the same though. We driveway camped in it with this setup for several nights last summer when the AC quit in the house. Most of the time when we aren't camping its in storage on flat ground at my cousin's farm.

I use both the wheel chocks and X-chocks so it's not going anywhere.

[Archicamper]

Originally Posted by itat

If your trailer is sitting with the front pointed down, then yes some weight would be transferred to the tongue jack, but with it sitting level, regardless of whether its on level ground or if the tongue is raised to get it level, there will be the same weight distribution. Simple physics.

Sorry I have to disagree. The trailer wheels are not sitting level. They are following the slope of the driveway with the trailer parallel to the driveway. This is the neutral position for the wheels with the majority of the weight on the wheels.

When you change the attitude of the trailer from this position, the load will be redistributed between the wheels and the differential load between the wheels will be taken by the jack.

[youroo]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Sorry to say, but the cinder blocks should be rolled over 90° and a block of wood laid on the top. Holes should be up.

100% Correct! Youroo!!

[OldCoot]

Draw a picture of a teeter totter and I think you will be surprised.

[Archicamper]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

Draw a picture of a teeter totter and I think you will be surprised.

That is true if you have 1 axle. With dual axles, typically the weight is close to equally distributed between the two axles. If you lift the front of the trailer high enough will the front axle come off the ground? If weight is taken off one of the axles it has to go somewhere.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Archicamper

That is true if you have 1 axle. With dual axles, typically the weight is close to equally distributed between the two axles. If you lift the front of the trailer high enough will the front axle come off the ground? If weight is taken off one of the axles it has to go somewhere.

He isn't any where near that. For no more incline than he's on, it's negligible. Outta here.

[itat]

Think of it this way - there are 2 points where the trailer's weight is distributed:
1) the jack at the front, and
2) (for dual axles) a point between the axles at the back.

For all intents and purposes, the 2 axles at the back share the load from the point between them. How that point load is split between the axles does depend on how much the trailer is tipped forwards or backwards, but between them they always share that point load at the back. It's extremely unlikely that you'll ever have the front tipped up so far that the weight will all be on the rearmost axle but in that case the point load for the back would be shifted entirely onto the rear axle. It still doesn't shift weight to the jack up front.

[Timex]

I know you fellas are doing what you've gotta do but in my opinion(and other's) it is not safe. I wouldn't want to be in a campground parked in front of you. Damage to the trailer is on you. I bet insurance claims adjusters would cringed at these pictures.

It's your trailer.

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Timex

I know you fellas are doing what you've gotta do but in my opinion(and other's) it is not safe. I wouldn't want to be in a campground parked in front of you. Damage to the trailer is on you. I bet insurance claims adjusters would cringed at these pictures.

It's your trailer.

That would be kind of hard to be parked in front of them at a campground with them in their driveway.

[Timex]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

That would be kind of hard to be parked in front of them at a campground with them in their driveway.

Not if you're double parked!

Thought you were outta here?

[Zwicker]

Originally Posted by itat

Think of it this way - there are 2 points where the trailer's weight is distributed:
1) the jack at the front, and
2) (for dual axles) a point between the axles at the back.

For all intents and purposes, the 2 axles at the back share the load from the point between them. How that point load is split between the axles does depend on how much the trailer is tipped forwards or backwards, but between them they always share that point load at the back. It's extremely unlikely that you'll ever have the front tipped up so far that the weight will all be on the rearmost axle but in that case the point load for the back would be shifted entirely onto the rear axle. It still doesn't shift weight to the jack up front.

I would sleep underneath that! Its safe. Double chocked. Np

Sent from my SGH-I337M using Forest River Forums mobile app

[OldCoot]

Originally Posted by Timex

Not if you're double parked!

Thought you were outta here?

Couldn't resist that one!

[DaGrinch]

Originally Posted by Timex

I know you fellas are doing what you've gotta do but in my opinion(and other's) it is not safe. I wouldn't want to be in a campground parked in front of you. Damage to the trailer is on you. I bet insurance claims adjusters would cringed at these pictures.

It's your trailer.

Wow, such a firestorm! Didn't know my blocks (and pictures) were going to cause such an alarm. And here I've been doing it for 6 years now.

Tell you what I'll do.... I'll get in touch with my buddy at the local concrete yard and see if they have any compression tests on their blocks. I'm sure they do, given they always have State projects and all. I'll even go as far as to contact my insurance man and see if he's got a problem with it. If the blocks can't hold more than about 2500#/sq inch or my insurance man says he's a bit worried, then I'll change the set up. What I can't change is the slope of my driveway. I'd love to tear the driveway up and put a new one down, but I'd still have to have a slope due to the terrain. I might even flop the blocks 90 degrees and put a 4x4 or something on top. But none of that is going to happen until next week... after I go camping tomorrow right after work.

BTW, Timex, I only do this in my driveway - never had to do it at a campground.

Y'all have a good weekend.

[ParrishCamper]

Ok. I've been thinking about this. Not sure if this makes any sense or not.
What if you back your camper up the slope driveway and then place (for me) Anderson Levelers in front of both front tires. Pull forward on the A.L. enough to level the front axle w/ the back. So instead of using them for side to side you would be using them for front to back. Of course you would still use wheel chocks on the rear and under the A.L. Once unhitched raise the tongue jack to level the camper like you would on a level pad. You would still need something under the tongue jack so it was extended all the way.
With both axles being at the same height and camper leveled front to back would this help??