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Old 03-09-2013, 08:37 PM   #1
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Tank heaters and RV electrics

We have a 2011 Roo 21SSL and I want to do some winter camping, possibly boondocking at some point (we do have a generator). Looking at the UltraHeat solution for all three tanks, both gate valves, a couple of elbows, and the exposed fresh water lines.

All told, if I need to run everything at once that's something like 38 amps. Looking at the manufacturer's installation instructions it appears these heaters are wired directly to the battery (through the fuse box), thus routing all current through the switches. As it stands now I have only two fuses available on the power panel at 15A each, clearly not enough to handle everything.

So here are my two questions:

1) Does anyone have any recommendations for installing relays to limit the current going through the power panel (and the heater switches)?

2) Should I consider swapping out my OEM "converter" for an aftermarket "inverter"? Or should I just add a new power inverter specifically for the heaters, and maybe a separate battery as well?
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:31 AM   #2
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We made the same question on the inverter. We decided that moving up to a new 4-stage converter/charger would do better for our battery system.
We haven't installed a power monitor system yet, but that project should be done later today.
Here's what we wound up getting:
PowerMax Boondocker Converters

TriMetric Battery Monitor
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Old 03-24-2013, 11:56 AM   #3
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Tank heaters cycle on and off according to temperature of the location so there may not be many or any times the whole 38 amps would be used. However, the original converter should go in favor of a progressive unit of 55amp or better capacity or equivalent.
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Old 03-26-2013, 12:04 AM   #4
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Do these vendors have pretty good installation instructions & theory of operation?

Or do I need to dust off my electrical engineering degree to figure out how to install it without burning the RV to a crisp?

(I do have pretty good hands-on electrical skills, just want to make sure my theory is rock-solid before I tackle something like this...)
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Old 03-27-2013, 08:27 AM   #5
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The 4 stage charger was simple with our install. Unplugged the RV, disconnected the battery, and found the old converter. The old converted had a regular house style plug that was plugged in behind our electrical panel. Unplugged that, plugged the new one in. Next replaced 3 wires - Positive, Negative, and ground. Reconnect battery. Finished.

Haven't done the power monitor yet - but consists of a shunt placed between the neg post of the battery and the distribution system (add a short low gauge wire for this) and connect a few wires to the shut to route to the panel (supplier sends this extra wire). Connect panel to wall, a few program items, and you're done.

I'm waiting to get a pair of 6volts this weekend and do the two projects together, I'll let you know things worked out.
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Old 03-27-2013, 10:07 AM   #6
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Glad to hear things are simple! Went ahead and ordered a couple of books on RV electrical systems to read up on while on vacation this week.

Thanks for the input - looking forward to an update!

(And I will update my posts when I figure it all out...)
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:19 PM   #7
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My WFCo converter (which I don't use very often) is right behind my breaker box, but separate and DOES plug into an electrical box.

If you have this situation it would be a VERY simple matter to replace it with another unit. The WFCO 9855 that I have claims to be a 3 stage charger, but I have not evaluated this exhaustively. I did note that my super duper 3 stage temperature compensated charger seemed to add at least another 25 or more amps to the battery bank, so there you have it. That would suggest that the WFCO gets it to about 90% which is really not that bad.
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:55 PM   #8
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Got a smokin' deal on two NAPA 8146 batteries (226 AmpHours). Put them in series well, biggest issue was making room for the 2nd battery. Added in the same compartment with some ventilated boxes going to the vent. One of the biggest problems was finding 1.75" inner diameter hose flexible enough to use. None of the home stores carry it with enough flexibility.
2nd project was installing the shunt and wiring up the Kelvin to the new trimetric monitor. Everything works perfectly. Shows a "bank account" of usable energy as well as showing current charge/draw and battery state (charging, charged).
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Old 04-05-2013, 04:08 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RenoRock View Post
Got a smokin' deal on two NAPA 8146 batteries (226 AmpHours). Put them in series well, biggest issue was making room for the 2nd battery. Added in the same compartment with some ventilated boxes going to the vent. One of the biggest problems was finding 1.75" inner diameter hose flexible enough to use. None of the home stores carry it with enough flexibility.
2nd project was installing the shunt and wiring up the Kelvin to the new trimetric monitor. Everything works perfectly. Shows a "bank account" of usable energy as well as showing current charge/draw and battery state (charging, charged).
Got my flexible hose from napa.
Heater duct hose.

Turbs
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