Thinking about having 2 thermostats

[Mainframe]

There is a trick I used to pull in my Kodiak with the A/C fan and the furnace, on cold nights I would run the A/C on "fan only" because the switches were on the unit,and the furnace ran from the thermostat.

Now I have this thermostat that "as far as I can tell" keeps me from doing this. I recently installed those Nest thermostats in the house and shop so I have a spare digital stat I can put in my camper.

Having the digital stat will be nice but I won't be able to get my fan trick going still.
So I am thinking add the digital stat to the A/C and keep the original one hooked to the furnace.

I ran the A/C fan a lot of times and one thing I noticed was it covered a lot of the outside noise and kept the air more even inside the camper.

Has anyone out there added a stat or mod to achieve this? I was also thinking about just putting some kind of switch on the A/C fan.

Any thoughts?

[Mr Havercamp]

Let me ask you this, how does your AC operate on your 23WS.

As far as the switch on the right "fan".

If I put the switch on the left on fan, should I not be able to control the AC fan speed with the switch on the right when its in the low or high position on the right of that switch. When fan only is on it runs at one speed no matter what the switch on right is set to.

No manual for the stat came in the package and the info I can find online is not very specific.

I have the 15K AC option.

[Mainframe]

Mine runs the same, i found something in my docs to tell me that it is wired and works the way they intended it to. i think my low fan speed and high fan speed are "really close" in speeds, but it took me a while until I noticed a difference.

I would be happy with just an A/C toggle fan switch but since I have a digital stat laying around I was thinking sticking it on the A/C to get my double function working.

On busy campground nights I would run the fan just to cover the noise. It helped a lot with circulation also, I think it would be REALLY nice with ducted vents.

I went through my doc on the fans 3 times to make sure I was not able to run both fans at once, i will pm you what I have when I get some time.

[Mr Havercamp]

I have not had enough time to play around with everything yet. I did tear into a lot of stuff I do not like and have been doing some stuff. All the back of cabinet and storage area baffles are gone and in process of being replaced. I now have 78 gallons of fresh water capacity and no more tank sagging to the point of being ready to fall off on the road. The tank I added, which is the same size and made by Alpha is much better made than the one Rockwood used, the plastic is much thicker.


Maiden Voyage starts the 26th for 10 nights so I only have a few days to get it all put back together. I installed a 2X2 aluminum angle at the kitchen counter to wall underneath trying to stop that movement that we both have in the caulk joint. The only thing it did was killed my back from attempting to be a contortionist getting in there. I have come to the conclusion you'll never get that movement solved because of the way the slide operates. I believe the solution is to re caulk it with the slide retracted which is probably what Rockwood should of done, That's my next move.

[Mainframe]

WOW! Tanks look great! I am not worried about the counter too much, It kinda doesn't count since it is only when retracted, I am the only one who would ever notice it.


I might ad the second stat inside one of those useless cubby holes with velcro to try it out for next trip.

I always thought the 23 WS was very solid when parked. However after further review, when my 12-year-old plays his video games he can shake the daylights out of the place.

Today I'm going to order the JT Strongarm stabilizers for this and add them before next trip. I think they will be just what the Dr ordered.

I was under the camper three times looking at my tank and straps although I'm not thrilled with how they are welded and made I think I'm OK.

In the six years that I have owned my Kodiak I did not dry camp one time.

I normally travel with just a little bit less than half a tank of water just so we can use everything while we travel.

So for now I think I will be OK
However, if I suspect they are not going to hold I am going to add some cable straps. I have access to a crimper and would just put some lightweight straps in a ladder pattern underneath the tank.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by Mainframe

WOW! Tanks look great! I am not worried about the counter too much, It kinda doesn't count since it is only when retracted, I am the only one who would ever notice it.


I might ad the second stat inside one of those useless cubby holes with velcro to try it out for next trip.

I always thought the 23 WS was very solid when parked. However after further review, when my 12-year-old plays his video games he can shake the daylights out of the place.

Today I'm going to order the JT Strongarm stabilizers for this and add them before next trip. I think they will be just what the Dr ordered.

I was under the camper three times looking at my tank and straps although I'm not thrilled with how they are welded and made I think I'm OK.

In the six years that I have owned my Kodiak I did not dry camp one time.

I normally travel with just a little bit less than half a tank of water just so we can use everything while we travel.

So for now I think I will be OK
However, if I suspect they are not going to hold I am going to add some cable straps. I have access to a crimper and would just put some lightweight straps in a ladder pattern underneath the tank.

I'm with ya but you should at least re caulk that joint, the MDF substrate under the laminate does not like water that could be spilled on the counter at all. Also check the perimeter of your undermount sinks, I think you'll find they need a little clear silicone.

[GalsofEscape]

So why do you not use the maxair vents for this??

[Mr Havercamp]

He wants to use the AC fan to circulate air through the camper while using the furnace which is a great idea. You can't do that with the stock stat without modifying it or adding a jumper wire. Using the maxxairs would exhaust the heat outside.

Speaking of which I think I need to dissect one of those maxxairs and see if I can add a reversing switch. I'd really like the one in the main area to blow in.

[GalsofEscape]

Got it thanks.

[AquaMan]

Installing a digital Dometic thermostat would allow you to that. I can set fan speed to Lo/Hi and have A/C fan run when furnace runs. If fan is set to Auto, the A/C fan will not run. I think this is what you are wanting to do.

[Mainframe]

Got a link or model number for the one you have?

Sounds perfect!

Thanks!

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by Mainframe

Got a link or model number for the one you have?

Sounds perfect!

Thanks!

Yes it does, I was going to go to a digital at some point also. If the Dometic stat gives me an extra feature that the Coleman stats do not I'll go that route too. I can't wait to get home to play with it now. I can't see why the Analog Coleman stat will not do what you describe. Is it possible the factory has them wired wrong? The ground is common and you only have one wire that kicks on the furnace (white). The green and gray to fan should still operate even with the heat on. That is unless Rockwood only used a 5 conductor wire or something.

[AquaMan]

This is similar to mine (except mine has heat strip setting also) and probably what you would need.
Dometic Penguin RV Air Conditioner Thermostat

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

This is similar to mine (except mine has heat strip setting also) and probably what you would need.
Dometic Penguin RV Air Conditioner Thermostat

$22 that's what I'm talking about.

The Coleman digital is over $50.

[Mainframe]

Thanks Aquaman! problem solved! Not going to mention how much I paid for 2 Nest stats! I like them though.

[AquaMan]

Funny thing is, that a lot of newbies usually post that they don't know how to keep their A/C fan from running when the furnace is on. I didn't realize the non digital stats didn't have that option.

[Mr Havercamp]

Originally Posted by AquaMan

Funny thing is, that a lot of newbies usually post that they don't know how to keep their A/C fan from running when the furnace is on. I didn't realize the non digital stats didn't have that option.

I think the difference with Mainframe and I is we both are used to non ducted AC's, where the wall stat was for was the heat. The FR hybrids are the only ones that are ducted AC. I'm curious how its going to be as I was always told in the past that the AC worked better without being ducted in a hybrid. Thats the main reason I went with the 15K, it does move a little more cfm than the 13.5.

I'm wondering now if I can put a heat strip in the Coleman 15K AC only unit. Need to reference the actual model number one day. No end to the money you can spend on these things

[AquaMan]

You can always use the bottom dump on the A/C to keep it from running through the ducts. We would do this to cool down the main living area quickly when we were setting up camp and putting things away, and shut the bedroom doors.

[Mainframe]

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp

I think the difference with Mainframe and I is we both are used to non ducted AC's, where the wall stat was for was the heat. The FR hybrids are the only ones that are ducted AC. I'm curious how its going to be as I was always told in the past that the AC worked better without being ducted in a hybrid. Thats the main reason I went with the 15K, it does move a little more cfm than the 13.5.

I'm wondering now if I can put a heat strip in the Coleman 15K AC only unit. Need to reference the actual model number one day. No end to the money you can spend on these things

I was just thinking the same thing! I want to put a heat strip in mine, I found a black stat with a heat strip option, that's what I will go with. (If I can in fact ad a heat strip)

Dometic 3313194.015 Black Single Zone LCD Cool/Furnace/Heat Strip Thermostat Only Camper Trailer RV