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Old 09-04-2012, 09:20 PM   #1
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Towing help with Rockwood Roo

Forum buddies,

I need some help. I recently towed my 2002 Rockwood Roo 23ft. About a half hour away from home to a KOA. I live in Ohio and travel thru the I-70/I-75 corridor frequent just to give anybody some perspective as to the grades I deal with. They are very slight....to say the least.

I tow with a 2007 Yukon XL 1500 4WD without auto level. I feel that this should be an adequate vehicle for a camper this size. I don't know the camper weight or tongue weight.

How ever here is the ID of the trailer if it helps 4x4trly2x2d07xxxx

I am currently just using a 5-1/4 drop hitch, and friction sway.

My Yukon taxed on the slight grades at 4500 rpm, (in tow mode)I know this can't be sustained and should not be happening should it.

Looking into a WDH, will it back a difference in towing and taxing the vehicle RPMs?

Any help appreciated....I am baffled. Let me know if more info is needed.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:24 PM   #2
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I would definitely get a WDH, my Suburban with auto level struggles on those crazy grades, but not at 4500 RPM's. I don't use my towing mode as personal preference.
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Old 09-04-2012, 09:41 PM   #3
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I don't think a WD hitch will help your TV with pulling up grades. What a WD hitch will do is move some of the weight from the back of your TV to the front. Making it safer for steering and a more level drive. I think the only thing that would help for pulling is a bigger engine in your TV or higher gear ratio in the rear end, sorry.
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Old 09-04-2012, 10:03 PM   #4
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For the weight of the trailer, isn't there a yellow sticker on the door of trailer? If I had to guess the weight of the trailer, I'd guess around 4,000 lbs. What is your towing capacity on the Yukon? I'd *think* when you have 4wd, you have slightly less towing capacity.
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Old 09-04-2012, 11:00 PM   #5
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It isn't just the weight, it's the aerodynamic drag from pulling that TT. I remember the huge difference between pulling a open car trailer and a TT both about the same weight...a world of difference.

As mentioned, the W/D hitch should get weight back on the steering axle and the TV level. Should looked into a sway control set-up also. This won't change the hill-climbing ability of the set-up.

What speeds are you trying to maintain? If it's a steep grade, I get the trans in 3rd gear and try to maintain about 3000rpm...the mph drops to whatever. There's no rule that you have to maintain your flatland cruising speed up a 6+% grades. The other suggestion is not to use cruise control...it's always too slow to react. Better to anticipate and downshift early.

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Old 09-04-2012, 11:07 PM   #6
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Just curious, what speed were you trying to maintain? IMO these things are not made for 70 mph speeds...
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Old 09-05-2012, 12:46 PM   #7
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I previously had a Roo 23ss and pulled it with an 02 Yukon XL with the 5.3L and even on flats here in Colorado it worked pretty hard to pull it. Then I moved up to a Denali XL with the 6.2L. That helped a lot but still was only a 1/2 ton vehicle and was a little too squishy of a ride for the current trailer so bit the bullet and got a 2500HD with diesel. Wouldn't look back now...can't tell there is a trailer back there!
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Old 09-05-2012, 02:22 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave_Monica View Post
It isn't just the weight, it's the aerodynamic drag from pulling that TT. I remember the huge difference between pulling a open car trailer and a TT both about the same weight...a world of difference.


Dave
Dave speaks the truth. I can pull a 22 foot flat trailer with 2 modified Suzuki samurais (about 7500lbs) on it at highway speeds and it pulls much easier than my 21ssl at around 5500lbs. Of course, at low speeds, its totally the opposite. And I pull with a hopped-up diesel Excursion.

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Old 09-05-2012, 02:42 PM   #9
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Xtrmtj, you did not post what model you have, but the listed empty tongue weight of the current Roos are in the 500 lb. range.....which probably means they are 600 lbs. or more when loaded. You definitely need a WDH !!! Your hitch is probably not rated for that type of weight without using a WDH. There should be a sticker on the hitch with the weight carrying and weight distributing maximums.

You did not state whether you are using any kind of sway control....you should have that also. When getting a WDH, get a unit with integrated sway control instead of just a friction bar.

Your Yukon will drive much better with a WDH and sway control....and won't tax the hitch as much. But, like others said, that will probably do nothing for your engine performance.

You also did not state what engine or final drive ratio is in your Yukon. Unless you are pushing a lot of air out of the way due to your speed, I can't imagine your engine having to rev to 4500 rpms with the slight bumps in road in many parts of Ohio. Turn off OD, forget about cruise control, and keep the speeds in check. I know the speed limit there is 70 mph, but ST trailer tires are only rated for 65 mph. I crossed the width of Ohio in August driving 65 mph, and I didn't get a 1 finger salute from anyone. I would occasionally find a tractor trailer driver doing 65 mph, and stay behind them .....nice relaxing drive with no hills to worry with. '

BTW, I edited out the last couple of digits of your VIN......no need for the whole world to have access to that.
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Old 09-05-2012, 04:32 PM   #10
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My TV has no trouble towing my 23SS and it has a 5.3 litre engine. I would seriously consider a WDH, I think therein lies your problem.
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