Towing help with Rockwood Roo

[Xtrmtj]

Forum buddies,

I need some help. I recently towed my 2002 Rockwood Roo 23ft. About a half hour away from home to a KOA. I live in Ohio and travel thru the I-70/I-75 corridor frequent just to give anybody some perspective as to the grades I deal with. They are very slight....to say the least.

I tow with a 2007 Yukon XL 1500 4WD without auto level. I feel that this should be an adequate vehicle for a camper this size. I don't know the camper weight or tongue weight.

How ever here is the ID of the trailer if it helps 4x4trly2x2d07xxxx

I am currently just using a 5-1/4 drop hitch, and friction sway.

My Yukon taxed on the slight grades at 4500 rpm, (in tow mode)I know this can't be sustained and should not be happening should it.

Looking into a WDH, will it back a difference in towing and taxing the vehicle RPMs?

Any help appreciated....I am baffled. Let me know if more info is needed.

[hockeytownmom]

I would definitely get a WDH, my Suburban with auto level struggles on those crazy grades, but not at 4500 RPM's. I don't use my towing mode as personal preference.

[Road-King]

I don't think a WD hitch will help your TV with pulling up grades. What a WD hitch will do is move some of the weight from the back of your TV to the front. Making it safer for steering and a more level drive. I think the only thing that would help for pulling is a bigger engine in your TV or higher gear ratio in the rear end, sorry.

[TeresaInCAL]

For the weight of the trailer, isn't there a yellow sticker on the door of trailer? If I had to guess the weight of the trailer, I'd guess around 4,000 lbs. What is your towing capacity on the Yukon? I'd *think* when you have 4wd, you have slightly less towing capacity.

[Dave_Monica]

It isn't just the weight, it's the aerodynamic drag from pulling that TT. I remember the huge difference between pulling a open car trailer and a TT both about the same weight...a world of difference.

As mentioned, the W/D hitch should get weight back on the steering axle and the TV level. Should looked into a sway control set-up also. This won't change the hill-climbing ability of the set-up.

What speeds are you trying to maintain? If it's a steep grade, I get the trans in 3rd gear and try to maintain about 3000rpm...the mph drops to whatever. There's no rule that you have to maintain your flatland cruising speed up a 6+% grades. The other suggestion is not to use cruise control...it's always too slow to react. Better to anticipate and downshift early.

Dave

[Road-King]

Just curious, what speed were you trying to maintain? IMO these things are not made for 70 mph speeds...

[tomjsas]

I previously had a Roo 23ss and pulled it with an 02 Yukon XL with the 5.3L and even on flats here in Colorado it worked pretty hard to pull it. Then I moved up to a Denali XL with the 6.2L. That helped a lot but still was only a 1/2 ton vehicle and was a little too squishy of a ride for the current trailer so bit the bullet and got a 2500HD with diesel. Wouldn't look back now...can't tell there is a trailer back there!

[Cowracer]

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

It isn't just the weight, it's the aerodynamic drag from pulling that TT. I remember the huge difference between pulling a open car trailer and a TT both about the same weight...a world of difference.


Dave

Dave speaks the truth. I can pull a 22 foot flat trailer with 2 modified Suzuki samurais (about 7500lbs) on it at highway speeds and it pulls much easier than my 21ssl at around 5500lbs. Of course, at low speeds, its totally the opposite. And I pull with a hopped-up diesel Excursion.

Tim

[MtnGuy]

Xtrmtj, you did not post what model you have, but the listed empty tongue weight of the current Roos are in the 500 lb. range.....which probably means they are 600 lbs. or more when loaded. You definitely need a WDH !!! Your hitch is probably not rated for that type of weight without using a WDH. There should be a sticker on the hitch with the weight carrying and weight distributing maximums.

You did not state whether you are using any kind of sway control....you should have that also. When getting a WDH, get a unit with integrated sway control instead of just a friction bar.

Your Yukon will drive much better with a WDH and sway control....and won't tax the hitch as much. But, like others said, that will probably do nothing for your engine performance.

You also did not state what engine or final drive ratio is in your Yukon. Unless you are pushing a lot of air out of the way due to your speed, I can't imagine your engine having to rev to 4500 rpms with the slight bumps in road in many parts of Ohio. Turn off OD, forget about cruise control, and keep the speeds in check. I know the speed limit there is 70 mph, but ST trailer tires are only rated for 65 mph. I crossed the width of Ohio in August driving 65 mph, and I didn't get a 1 finger salute from anyone. I would occasionally find a tractor trailer driver doing 65 mph, and stay behind them .....nice relaxing drive with no hills to worry with. '

BTW, I edited out the last couple of digits of your VIN......no need for the whole world to have access to that.

[Dave Lyon]

My TV has no trouble towing my 23SS and it has a 5.3 litre engine. I would seriously consider a WDH, I think therein lies your problem.

[Triguy]

This is the second time today I read complaints about a Yukon/Suburban struggling while crawling up grades. Here's the other thread Airlift 1000 are junk.

Xtrmtj - I really think its the truck or how its being driven. I also think you should use a WDH for that trailer but for other reasons. I can't see how a WDH will help with the problem you described.

[TURBS]

I bet the gear ratio is in the low threes and would explain a lot !
Take a suburban with a 323 ratio and a 5.3l engine and the same suburban with a 350 or 373 ratio and the same 5.3 engine and it would be night and day difference!

[Triguy]

Methinks you're right.

[Xtrmtj]

It is a 3.73 rear end gear ratio. 4657 gvwr also

[Triguy]

Originally Posted by Xtrmtj

It is a 3.73 rear end gear ratio. 4657 gvwr also

Well, there goes that theory. A 3.73 rear end shouldn't be the problem.

That can't be the GVWR, though. That number is too low for a Yukon XL 4X4, which should be closer to 7,000-7,500lbs. Are you sure about that? The Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) is the maximum a vehicle can safely weigh when loaded, including the vehicle itself, occupants, cargo and optional equipment.

Is that the trailer GVWR?

[TURBS]

Hmmmmmmm

[crasher]

I've not been feeling the love for my 2012 Suburban this week. I have the 3.42 diff. Think that's the highest (?) you can get in the 1500 these days. Aerodynamic drag may be a factor. This truck is definitely over 3 tons. My Sunset Trail is about 2200 lbs heavier, but tows a lot better than my Surveyor 189. The Sunset Trail has a curved fiberglass front cap, the Surveyor has a flat front. With either though, in the hilly terrain of the Carolinas, expecting to cruise above 60 mph is just too stressful unless you enjoy the sound of a screaming V8. And 8 mpg is just gravy for the goose.

[bikendan]

well, i pull my Roo 23SS with an '07 Avalanche, basically the same as the Yukon, except with a pickup bed.
i have the 5.3 with the 3.73 that comes with the factory tow package. but the early GM900 models had the 4 speed tranny, whereas the latest ones have the 6 speed tranny but higher rear end ratios.

but i live in California and pull through mountains all the time, including the Sierras, Cascades and Siskiyous.
my 23SS weighs around 5000lbs. loaded for camping and i have no problems towing in the mountains.
i really don't pay much attention to the rpms, since the 4 speed will require it to rev higher on steep grades.
i have plenty of power and the only issues is the tranny runs a little hot, even with the factory tranny cooler.

[Xtrmtj]

The weight I did post was for the trailer...sorry.

I think I really had unrealistic expectations on the towing at 65mph. I just need to relax and drive, get ore towing experience and one on.

I don't feel as though my step warrants a wdh, my Yukon doesn't squat and I have no issue with steering. Plus it won't help pulling the weight will it?

I am already using a friction sway bar to.

Keep the info coming please.

[caper]

I tow the mountains in western Canada. I try to keep my RPM's in the mid to low 3000. By the time I get to the top of the hill my speed drops to 40 mph. I could keep a higher speed but why make the truck work harder then it has to.