they leak and break all the time flooding in a place that is out of sight.
I suggest you go to HD or Lowes and buy a universal fit unit that uses standard carts available everywhere... OR
take it out and from a hardware store buy a hose fitting to bypass the broken unit, just connecting the inlet to the outlet. Many people use this unit below which filters the water going into your camper... from Walmart or other big box stores
yes replacements are available but probably not at any local rv supply store. these are proprietary to forest river and you'll probably need to order it online and have it shipped. there have been many posts about people taking this filter housing out and bypassing it with a standard plumbing fitting found at any hardware store. you'll need to do this. even if you decide to go with the inline filters that you put on your incoming water hose, you will still need to bypass the broken filter housing.
by chance did the filter housing freeze with water in it?
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2015 cardinal model 3825fl
2015 dodge ram 3500 dually
yes replacements are available but probably not at any local rv supply store. these are proprietary to forest river and you'll probably need to order it online and have it shipped. there have been many posts about people taking this filter housing out and bypassing it with a standard plumbing fitting found at any hardware store. you'll need to do this. even if you decide to go with the inline filters that you put on your incoming water hose, you will still need to bypass the broken filter housing.
by chance did the filter housing freeze with water in it?
Thx for the tip .... no it was never frozen. We live in Florida ... can’t believe they would make a part that could even possibly break like this!
As suggested- throw it away! Get fittings to bypass it.
Use external filters like the self contained shown by rsdata OR get a whole house filter and male and female hose fittings for each side and use that. I can get standard filter cartridges for about $10 a two pack just about anywhere- Lowes, Home Debit, WalMart etc...
__________________ Peace! Dan & Rita D
2017 Nissan Titan 5.6L King cab 4wd
2016 Evergreen Everlite 242RBS
29' empty nest model. Blue Ox WD hitch
(1 queen bed, large main cabin and huge bathroom)
Camping days 2010-53, 2011-47, 2012-41, 2013-41, 2014-31, 2015-40, 2016-44, 2017-63, 2018-75, 2019-32, 2020-41, 2021-49, 2022-43, 2023-66
they leak and break all the time flooding in a place that is out of sight.
I suggest you go to HD or Lowes and buy a universal fit unit that uses standard carts available everywhere... OR
take it out and from a hardware store buy a hose fitting to bypass the broken unit, just connecting the inlet to the outlet. Many people use this unit below which filters the water going into your camper... from Walmart or other big box stores
As suggested- throw it away! Get fittings to bypass it.
Use external filters like the self contained shown by rsdata OR get a whole house filter and male and female hose fittings for each side and use that. I can get standard filter cartridges for about $10 a two pack just about anywhere- Lowes, Home Debit, WalMart etc...
They often break because people tend to not understand how to tighten/loosen the canister correctly.
Unlike common screw on canisters where you tighten the canister tight against the housing and an o-ring seals between the TOP of the canister and the housing, the FR1 canister has an o-ring on the SIDE of the canister, locking teeth and an arrow on it.
When you install the canister, you only turn it until the arrow on the canister and the arrow on the housing align. Then you pull down ever so slightly on the canister to engage the locking teeth.
Removal is just the opposite. Push up ever so slightly on the canister to disengage the locking teeth and unscrew the canister.
These filters have got a bad rap simply because folks are not accustomed to how it works. Many chew the locking teeth off by not pushing the canister up before removing (with the wrench) and then the canister no longer locks. Or they don't pull the canister down to lock it once on and it comes loose. And finally, they tighten the canister past the arrow alignment and crack or bust the bottom out of the bowl.
They are prone to breaking in freezing temperatures by folks leaving even one drop of water on the threads of the canister or up inside the housing.
The advice of removing the filter and using it outside is still good as floods in an R/V are never a good thing. Get it outside at the hydrant where you can see how it operates (for maintenance) and not have to worry about it.
EDIT:
It is interesting to note the OP's canister does not seem to have the common red/green alignment arrow on the sticker. Not sure why or if it is now molded into the clear plastic somewhere else?? You'll note in the first photo the arrows on the housing and the canister are NOT aligned properly.
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2022 Cedar Creek 345IK 5th Wheel•Solar & Inverter•2017 Ford F-Series SCREW 4x4•Factory Puck•B&W Companion•TST Tire Monitor w/Repeater•Sinemate 3500w Gen.
F&AM Lodge 358 Somerset, PA - JAFFA Shrine - Altoona, PA Days Camped ☼ '19=118 ☼ '20=116 ☼ '21=123 ☼ '22=134 ☼ '23=118☼ '24=86
Before adding a new external filter do some research. Those blue filters are usually 10 microns. We use a dual canister system with a 1 micron prefilter and a 1/2 micron carbon filter. The reason is the blue type would not filter out rust at CG with well water. We bought ours here https://www.rvwaterfilterstore.com/ After buying the canisters the filters are very reasonable. I use one set a year. I have caps to keep water in the filters during storage so they don't dry out once used. Don't know if that is needed but is what I do.
We are at a campground and our roo was flooded out when the water filter piece busted (see pic)
Is this a part that can easily be found at someplace like camping world?
Any ideas to fix this issue if I can’t find a replacement? W can’t run water without it
Not usually stocked at local outlets except perhaps a FR dealer.
I found parts readily available at Hannah RV online.
As stated earlier most of the griping over this filter setup comes from people who don't know how to loosen or tighten the canister. Of course freezing won't be good for ANY filter regardless of brand or cost.
Edit to add:
Just a guess but I've seen damage like shown in the picture before. It usually happens when the canister itself is dropped on it's bottom end in handling and cracks. May not fail immediately but eventually cracks lead to total failure.
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"A wise man can change his mind. A fool never will." (Japanese Proverb)
"You only grow old when you run out of new things to do"
2018 Flagstaff Micro Lite 25BDS
2023 f-150 SCREW XLT 3.5 Ecoboost (The result of a $68,000 oil change)
Your water lines should move some to make the connection. When I took our filter out I had to remove a clamp that held one side of the line to some framework. Gave me about a foot or better to attach my splice. I then reattached the line to the same framework for a bit of support.
Not usually stocked at local outlets except perhaps a FR dealer.
I found parts readily available at Hannah RV online.
As stated earlier most of the griping over this filter setup comes from people who don't know how to loosen or tighten the canister. Of course freezing won't be good for ANY filter regardless of brand or cost.
Edit to add:
Just a guess but I've seen damage like shown in the picture before. It usually happens when the canister itself is dropped on it's bottom end in handling and cracks. May not fail immediately but eventually cracks lead to total failure.
Seems to be a moot point for this OP's KW1 filter. No arrows anywhere to be seen.
We got rid of our filter also. It was a PIA when winterizing. Found what I needed at Homie. Also someone some time ago on this site suggested turning off water supply or pump when leaving your trailer just in case of a leak. I thought it was good advice. Good luck with repairs.
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Jim & Kathy
Bailey, waiting at the Rainbow Bridge
Gracie, a rescued Beagle
2007 Chevy Tahoe
2008 FR Surveyor 233T
I have the complete housing and bracket stored in my garage. I'd give it to you if you're in my neighborhood. IMO, they are not worth the cost of shipping.
I have a whole house filter from Menards with 5 micron cartridges on my TT.
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Richard & Jill
2014 Flagstaff 832IKBS Classic Super Lite
2018 Silverado 1500 Crew Cab Z71 4WD All Star Edition
Camping since 1989, Seasonal since 2000.
Car Shredder Op/Tech, Scrap Metal Recycling - retired
As I recall, FR has used 2 different versions of these filters...
To the OP. If your can't pull the two ends of the pipe together... Cut at the red arrows shown in the picture. From your favorite big box store, get 2 shark bite style couplers, a short piece of (probably) 1/2' pex tubing (often sold in 5 or 10 foot lengths color is NOT important), and a pex tubing cutter (they aren't that expensive). Note that to prevent leakage, pex needs to be cut cleanly and as close to straight as possible.
If you boondock camp or otherwise use water from your on-board water tank, you may want to put a pressure/accumulator tank into your system. This would be a good spot to install it. Using the tank will reduce pump cycling on and off, nice to not have the pump kick on while folks are sleeping. I installed one of these: https://www.menards.com/main/plumbin...5250313&ipos=1
I think the Shurflo and Seaflo accumulator tanks are worthless, they only hold about a pint of water.
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Al
I am starting to think, that I will never be old enough--------to know better.
Tolerance will reach such a level that intelligent people will be banned from thinking so as not to offend the imbeciles. Fyodor Mikhailovich Dostoevsky, Russian Novelist
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