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Old 02-23-2011, 08:31 AM   #21
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yes- bent. thanks for the link I will check it out.
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:06 AM   #22
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I totally agree with Chap. Right in the manual for the my hitch it states.
"Overly stiff spring bars yield a rough ride and can overstress a trailer tongue."
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Old 02-23-2011, 09:39 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
IMHO, that is too much for a trailer that has a GVWR of 4718 lbs. and a tongue weight of 318 lbs. In the case of a WDH, heavier is not better. The spring bars need to be sized to the trailer. Too stiff bars will lead to a really stiff ride, and may stress the tongue frame......that is meant to handle 300 to 500 lbs., not the stress of a 1000 lbs.

I have a 700 lb. tongue weight, and get by with 800 lb. spring bars. With a 318 lb. dry weight tongue weight, and maybe a maximum of 500 lbs. ready to camp, 600 lb. spring bars might be a better choice than 1000 lb. bars.

This a chart posted a couple of years ago....can't find an updated version:

Attachment 4614
I appreciatte your valid points and I understand with what you are saying

Here is why I went with the 1,000 10,000 -

1 - My truck isnt the most ideal tow vehicle - it is a 4x4 Lifted 6" with 35" tires and requires a 6" drop hitch

2 - I am getting the plastic bar covers which take away some of the sway control because they say metal to metal is better then the plastic on metal

3 - if I ever go to upgrade to a larger trailer later on down the road I will not have to upgrade hitches.

4 - the Hitch can be adjusted to have minimal lift with adjustments of the L Brackets

after reading above it sounds like I am trying to justify the hitch in my mind LOL

I just found out today my trailer is out of production and is getting transported tommorow and will be delivered to the dealer early to mid next week.
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Old 02-24-2011, 08:45 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherdep View Post
I appreciatte your valid points and I understand with what you are saying

Here is why I went with the 1,000 10,000 -

1 - My truck isnt the most ideal tow vehicle - it is a 4x4 Lifted 6" with 35" tires and requires a 6" drop hitch

2 - I am getting the plastic bar covers which take away some of the sway control because they say metal to metal is better then the plastic on metal

3 - if I ever go to upgrade to a larger trailer later on down the road I will not have to upgrade hitches.

4 - the Hitch can be adjusted to have minimal lift with adjustments of the L Brackets

after reading above it sounds like I am trying to justify the hitch in my mind LOL

I just found out today my trailer is out of production and is getting transported tommorow and will be delivered to the dealer early to mid next week.
Sherdep, I will answer your concerns the best I can....hope others will chime in if I am wrong.

1. Lighter spring bars should not matter.

2. You might lose a little friction control there, but it would be the same with either weight bar. Properly setup, both bars will exert the same downforce.

3. I am not sure with Equalizer, but I know with Reese you can buy spring bars without replacing the hitch.

4. Lighter spring bars should not matter.

Overall, you will not be getting any more sway control or weight distributing by going to the heavy bars. You do not want to transfer too much of the weight to the front end of you tow vehicle. The 600 lb. bars will get your needed weight back on the front of the truck, as will the 1000 lb. bars. That is why you need to follow the directions in setting up your rig.
For example, if you have both sets of bars setup to put 100 extra pounds on the front axle, then all is good. But when you enter any kind of dip in the road, like going into a gas station or entering a railroad track grade, the 1000 lb bars will not give near as much as the 600 lb. bars. The front axle of your tow vehicle might now have an extra 500 lbs on it, depending on how severe the dip is. The trailer axles will also take the extra weight, as well as putting a strain on the trailer tongue. The 600 lb. bars will have more give, allowing for less stress on the front axle, trailer axle, and tongue frame.
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Old 02-24-2011, 11:39 AM   #25
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Hey mtnguy - I decided to send an email to Equalizer for curiosity since they made it I would think they would know best and neither one of us gives bad or wrong info.
so here is the message I sent:
Hey,
I have a question - I am buying a travel trailer that has an empty tongue weight of 318lbs - and probably when loaded to be around 500lbs or 600lbs with a GVW of 4718 (Loaded with Gear) -
My question is will the Equalizer 4 point - 1,000lbs 10,0000lb hitch be over kill for this application or will it work without issue? I just want to put this concern to bed since I have someone telling me that he thinks it will be too much and could cause other stress on the trailer tongue - the trailer I am purchasing is a Rockwood Mini Lite 2306 (Forestriverinc.com) if you need to look at the specs of the trailer.
My tow vehicle is a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 4x4 with a 6" lift and 35" tires.
Thank you in advanced
Matt

Here is there Response:
Matt,

With an empty tongue weight of 318 and a GVWR of 4718, the 10,000/1,000 would be the best fit for your situation. Your tongue weight when loaded would fall into the middle of the range of the 10,000/1,000 but would be at the maximum capacity for the 6,000/600 hitch.

I've had customers towing a 10,000/1,000 Equal-i-zer with their Casita or R-pod or Coleman pop-up camper several times a week call in to speak with me about maintenance or replacement part questions, and none of them have ever reported any trouble with the frame or handling with their rig.

I think your contact that's telling you about stress to a trailer frame is confusing our Equal-i-zer hitch for an equalizer hitch-meaning a simple weight distribution hitch. These other hitches are manufactured from stiffer steel, and don't have the flex that our Equal-i-zer does.

We actually work quite closely with Forest River, and they've put some of our hitches OEM on some of their trailer models. If there were any problem with our hitch and their trailers, we'd certainly have heard about it.

I think with the 10,000/1,000 you'll have smooth sailing. Just remember to adjust the weight distribution once you get the trailer back home and load it up. The dealer can't anticipate your cargo loading, so they'll set up your trailer for the empty load.

Questions? Concerns? Let me know.

Thanks,

XXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXX
Customer Service Lead,
Progress, Mfg Inc.
1-800-478-5578
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:30 PM   #26
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Well, I can't argue with the experts. Enjoy !!

With the Equalizer guy saying that the 10,000 lb. unit is being used on Casitas, pop-ups, and R-pods, I wonder why they even manufacture a 6,000 lb. unit.....and what the heck would that be used on.
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Old 02-24-2011, 12:37 PM   #27
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That's news to me, too.

I learn something new everyday.
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Old 02-24-2011, 04:15 PM   #28
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I have learned more in three pages then I ever thought possible. Can't wait to actually get my HTT and start new threads about any and everything. This is just more fun than one person should be allowed to have.

Thanks to all,

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Old 02-24-2011, 06:13 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mtnguy View Post
Well, I can't argue with the experts. Enjoy !!

With the Equalizer guy saying that the 10,000 lb. unit is being used on Casitas, pop-ups, and R-pods, I wonder why they even manufacture a 6,000 lb. unit.....and what the heck would that be used on.
wasnt trying to doubt your post but figured I would email them and ask to be sure - I was kinda surprised from the answer but atleast I now know.

have no idea why they would make a 6,000 either maybe to open up another market for people that dont ask and figure it is the right size

so you know mtnguy I wasnt directing any comments if taken the wrong way at you - if any were taken that way - which I hope not
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Old 02-25-2011, 08:48 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sherdep View Post
wasnt trying to doubt your post but figured I would email them and ask to be sure - I was kinda surprised from the answer but atleast I now know.

have no idea why they would make a 6,000 either maybe to open up another market for people that dont ask and figure it is the right size

so you know mtnguy I wasnt directing any comments if taken the wrong way at you - if any were taken that way - which I hope not
I did not take it the wrong way. It is great that you took the initiative to do the research. I am definitely not an expert on Equalizer, and don't even own one......I use a Reese. The reply did surprise me though, I will hopefully retain it somewhere in the recesses of my brain for future reference.

My reply to this thread was was done according to what I have read, and from my own personal experience setting up my Reese. I started with the 800 lb. bars that the dealer set me up with. I did not feel they gave me enough weight distributing, so I order 1200 lb bars. I did not like the feel of the heavier bars.......they made the back of the truck feel stiff. After going to a 1" raised ball to alleviate a yoke bolt and trunnion bar rub problem, I went back to the 800 lb. bars, tilted the ball mount back to the maximum, and got the lift I needed. The 1200 lb. bars now sit unused in my garage.

Here is my setup:

Click image for larger version

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You can see the slight bend in the trunnion bars. I could not see that bend when using the 1200 lb. bars.
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