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Old 07-16-2014, 12:21 PM   #11
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I would think you should be able to change to the last version of the latches like on my 2010 Roo. If no one here knows for sure, check with a Roo dealer or the factory.
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Old 07-16-2014, 03:07 PM   #12
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Thanks. I will go to where the camper was originally purchased and check it out. Thanks for your help. Do you think you could send me a picture of your latches? Just so I know what I'm looking at. Thanks again!


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Old 07-16-2014, 05:35 PM   #13
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This is the only picture I have.
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2016 Ford F-250 XLT SuperCrew, 6.2L, 4x4, 6'9" bed, 3.73, w/ snow plow & camper pkgs.
2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
2009 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew, 5.4L, 5'6" bed (2012 - 2016)

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Old 07-16-2014, 05:58 PM   #14
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Thank you! That should help.


2003 Shamrock 232
2006 Yukon Denali XL
Max. Towing Cap. 7,000lbs.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:41 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fontaineeagle View Post
Thanks. I will go to where the camper was originally purchased and check it out. Thanks for your help. Do you think you could send me a picture of your latches? Just so I know what I'm looking at. Thanks again!


2003 Shamrock 232
2006 Yukon Denali XL
Max. Towing Cap. 7,000lbs.
you can get the cargo latches from Fastech Ind.
check out their website.
many hybrid owners with the ancient screw-clamp setup like you have, to the newer cargo latch setup.

it's a very common mod for all older hybrids, no matter the manufacturer.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:29 AM   #16
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Thank you very much. I will look them up.


2003 Shamrock 232
2006 Yukon Denali XL
Max. Towing Cap. 7,000lbs.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:40 PM   #17
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Thank you very much. I will look them up.


2003 Shamrock 232
2006 Yukon Denali XL
Max. Towing Cap. 7,000lbs.
Products

you order both the locking cargo vise and the cargo latch, total around $35.
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Old 08-17-2014, 07:29 AM   #18
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Was thinking of making drain holes in the lower frame at the ends attached to plastic tubes that run the water out the trailer. Any thoughts on this idea?


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Old 08-17-2014, 07:42 AM   #19
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Cause and effect! You could make the situation worse. I had a Kodiac that I thought leaked around the seal but was really leaking through the frame around the door. I had to relpalce the door. the laun rotted and delaminated. I kept a good bead of caulk around the frame after that. Mine also had a 1 inch wide drip edge over the top of the door to help with seals.

Another thing that may help with the seals is to keep them lubricated with a silicone type grease. Haywood makes a good one for pool seal (orings on pumps and filters) its called Jacks Lube, great stuff. This will require you cleaning it ocasionally as it will atract dirt but it will help with the seal.
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Old 08-17-2014, 08:17 AM   #20
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Was thinking of making drain holes in the lower frame at the ends attached to plastic tubes that run the water out the trailer. Any thoughts on this idea?


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I'd suggest that could be a last resort if you can't find the source of the water first and fix the leaking seal.

On my Roo with the old bungee style tenting, there is a gap on both sides of the hinges that will allow water in in a driving rain or when you're driving in the rain. If the bottom of the bed door frame is not sloped to drain the water outwards then it will accumulate there and wick up into the bottom of the bed door causing delamination. So if you can't prevent the water from getting in, your drain tubes may help prevent the delamination from happening. I know there is a similar system in my slide out.
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2010 Rockwood Roo 23SS (2012 - 2014)
2009 Ford F-150 XLT SuperCrew, 5.4L, 5'6" bed (2012 - 2016)

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