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Old 05-03-2014, 09:35 PM   #1
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Wheel bearing repack?

How often do most of you repack the wheel bearing on your travel trailers, and what's the best way to do it. Owners packet that came with our used Roo 23SS that we bought a year ago says with the bearings we have i just have to pump grease in the zerk and don't have to take the hub apart. But it also says you should take them apart every year to check for wear?
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Old 05-03-2014, 09:47 PM   #2
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Yep!
I would take apart, repack since I'm there, add a couple new seals and go down the road!

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Old 05-03-2014, 09:48 PM   #3
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Oh, and every year.

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Old 05-03-2014, 10:21 PM   #4
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So.... Why did they put a grease zerks on the thing......(and say don't have to take apart.... So you don't have to take them apart . The last camper that I had for 15 years. It had no grease zerks and in that amount of time I only took the bearings out twice and repacked them. There was never any sign of wear any where. Have you put any grease in the zerks since you bought your unit? You should if you have not as the factory seems to not fill them completely. Get each wheel off the ground so that you can spin it and slowly pump a little grease in the zerk as you slowly turn the tire. Do not jack the tire up by the axle as you may distort it, but on one of the u-bolts. When grease starts flowing out around the nut, you are done. wipe off the overflow.

There are a few threads on this subject that you can look up.
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:37 AM   #5
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Wish I never heard of Zerks! I put Bearing Buddys" on my popup last year, replaced and repacked the bearings while I was at it, and hauled the PUP to Co. From Mi. Decided to pump some grease in the Zerks while in Estes Park and consequently noticed the brakes misbehaving as we hightailed it over The Divide to avoid the Great Flood last summer. By the time we got to Moab, the trailer brakes were seizing. Turns out, my efforts at adding additional grease resulted in compromising the inner seal and ruining the pads and the rest of the brake mechanisims. Subsequent discussions and $200 in repairs led me to join the camp of bearing experts who believe that Bearing Buddies are not a good idea. Just inspect and repack yearly (depending on distance traveled) and fuggetaboudit. Jist saying....
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Old 05-04-2014, 07:42 AM   #6
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Bearing Buddy's are not good for trailers with brakes for the exact reason you experienced. The EZ lube axles direct the excess grease out the front away from the rear seal and brakes whereas the BB direct it against the rear seals and subsequently to the brakes.
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Old 05-04-2014, 08:29 AM   #7
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If you have the modern hubs with zerks, they work fine and I don't see the need to pull the bearings every year. (Bearing Buddies are another story as OC mentions). I've got 30K miles on my trailer. I "zerk lube" the hubs twice a year. After 5 years and 25K, I had the bearings examined. They were perfect. Repacked them, reinstalled them. Will be "zerking" for another 5 years.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:06 AM   #8
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That is good to know! So my "new" 2009 Roo 21 RS most likely has EZ Lube fittings and I can use the zerk fitting with no problems? How can I tell when I have applied enough lube and is it ok to mix different color or types of lubricant grease? Thanks for the advice.
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Old 05-04-2014, 09:40 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by acadianbob View Post
If you have the modern hubs with zerks, they work fine and I don't see the need to pull the bearings every year. (Bearing Buddies are another story as OC mentions). I've got 30K miles on my trailer. I "zerk lube" the hubs twice a year. After 5 years and 25K, I had the bearings examined. They were perfect. Repacked them, reinstalled them. Will be "zerking" for another 5 years.
At the factory, they do not fill the hubs with grease (just the bearings) when they install them.

Some rules on Ultra-lube axles:

1) ALWAYS use the correct spec grease - too thin and the grease will run out when hot; too thick and you will not be able to get a good flow using a hand grease gun.

2) ALWAYS use a hand grease gun. If you need more pressure than that or the hub won't take grease, you have a clogged Zerk; clean or replace. Air pressure grease guns will blow out your rear seal because the grease is pushing against the bearings and the full hub; the rear seal is will pop before the pressure can move the remaining grease out of the way.

3) The first time you fill an empty (or recently repacked/inspected hub), it will take a lot of grease. Don't worry; it will come out the front like it is supposed to.

4) Remove the entire cap (not just the rubber) for a new fill or bearing flush. There will be a LOT of dirty grease coming out. Never stick your finger in the bearing cap to scoop out the grease (sharp edge; don't ask how I know).

5) Put a squirt in before every trip and every few thousand miles. Wait till you see the blackened grease be replaced by clean grease (will retain the color of fresh). Every so often there will be a LOT of black grease as the rear bearing dirty grease gets pushed through the front. Just keep going until it is clean grease.

I repack every three years or when the brakes need to be changed.
At the rally, I had new self adjusting brake assemblies installed and the technician said my bearings still looked like new after over 25,000 miles.
Herk
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Old 05-04-2014, 10:20 AM   #10
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Herk
Thanks for sharing that valuable information. I went to the manufacturer website ( www.al-kousa.com) and downloaded the pdf owners manual for my axels and it had this to say about grease:
Grease
Use a high temperature, automotive type wheel bearing grease produced by a reputable manufacturer. The soap type should be lithium complex or equivalent. Use NLGI Grade 2 product
with a minimum dropping point of 440o F.
I assume the link you posted meets these specifications.
I will look for it or a comparable product at my local NAPA outlet.
Thanks again for all the help.
Jim
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