When to address Bunk End door rot

[burtont]

I am new to the forum after recently acquiring a 2011 Roo 183, moving up from a Jayco Pop Up. The Roo is in exceptional condition inside though we noticed after purchasing that the front and the rear (to a much lesser degree) bunk ends have some softness near the bottom close to the hinge. In both cases the softness only appears to be on the inside. No delamination on the outside and it appears to by only surface in nature. I can push hard on it and feel the first layer of ply is soft from water that leaked in at some point. This softness is typically on one side and not more than a half the bunk long by an inch or two tall (think along the bed where it hinges). We have slept on all of the beds and they sure seem sturdy. I know that I will have to address the issue at some point. My question for people who have experienced the same is, do I need to replace them now? How much softness is acceptable before you would address it? Thanks for any advice in advance. And, yes, I am addressing the cause of the leaks (sloppy seals and extruding screws).

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by burtont

I am new to the forum after recently acquiring a 2011 Roo 183, moving up from a Jayco Pop Up. The Roo is in exceptional condition inside though we noticed after purchasing that the front and the rear (to a much lesser degree) bunk ends have some softness near the bottom close to the hinge. In both cases the softness only appears to be on the inside. No delamination on the outside and it appears to by only surface in nature. I can push hard on it and feel the first layer of ply is soft from water that leaked in at some point. This softness is typically on one side and not more than a half the bunk long by an inch or two tall (think along the bed where it hinges). We have slept on all of the beds and they sure seem sturdy. I know that I will have to address the issue at some point. My question for people who have experienced the same is, do I need to replace them now? How much softness is acceptable before you would address it? Thanks for any advice in advance. And, yes, I am addressing the cause of the leaks (sloppy seals and extruding screws).

Basically the damage is done and is worse then you think, water damage is like an iceberg, u only see the tip the rest is hidden, then surprise. However you might be able to save yours if you get on it now. Anyway address it immediately, seal out the water of course and my best guess it get a dehumidifier running next to the door and see if it can draw out some of the water/moisture. Problem is water damage, then rot. Yours seems in the beginning stages so hopefully you can get them dried out and saved.

Or check out my thread and see the mess when its ignored (previous owner) have to throw that in there.

[rsdata]

One thing to caution you on is that not all ROO/Shamrock bunk ends are the same. They have changed and evolved over the years.

The hinges are not the same, the door seals are not the same and the latches are not the same. So someone's fix for one year model may not work on your year.

A bunk end door is not cheap to replace, even IF a replacement door is available for your specific year. You may want to contact Forest River first with your specific TT info and inquire before you start to see if a whole door is available.

I am quite happy with my door and seal from the 2014 model year although mine was actually manufactured Sept 2013. Some with current model years doors have already reported leakage and delamination from outside fiberglass, and from top tent and seal issues, but from what I see their doors are a bit different then mine.

What you describe may well be fixable by you with a few handyman skills and trips to home depot. I certainly would be pulling up the inside covering to have a look at the damage. Once you can see where the softness extends to you can determine how bad it is and what a possible fix might be.

Take many pictures from many angles on what you find and post them here.

[Millhouse]

Indeed designs have slightly changed, better? I guess so seems there are still problems tho.
Now my bunk door is wood, foam and wood glued and pressed together, there is no way to peel up the inside wallpaper per say without tearing it. Maybe there is a way, someone will have to tell the op. Other wise seal it, dehumidifiers heat? Try to dry it best he can.
I think he got it just in time and can save it unlike my front door.

[rsdata]

there is no way to peel up the inside wallpaper per say without tearing it.

OMG don't tear the wallpaper on a used out of warranty Roo...

of course you will have to rip up the paper to get at the rotted wood and whatever under the bunk...

Other wise seal it, dehumidifiers heat? Try to dry it best he can

OP never said it was wet, just soft from being wet at some time.

maybe after it is fixed OP can really put some new jazzy paper on top!

[Millhouse]

Originally Posted by rsdata

OMG don't tear the wallpaper on a used out of warranty Roo...

of course you will have to rip up the paper to get at the rotted wood and whatever under the bunk...



OP never said it was wet, just soft from being wet at some time.

maybe after it is fixed OP can really put some new jazzy paper on top!

Maybe the Op is not familiar with hybrids I just think it's important to give him all the information he just can't peel it up and think that he's going to put it back down.

[burtont]

Thanks for the suggestions. At this point I'm not going to tear up the "wallpaper" to see how it looks. The softness is really limited to a very thin area and the very bottom inch closest to the hinge is still solid. I think I will have an RV service in our area examine it. I have already sent the vin number to Rockwood's service to get a quote on new doors. I just don't want to dump a few thousand dollars into this if these doors are going to be solid for the next 4 or 5 years. No delam on the outside. So I HOPE it is only on the top/inside layer of lauan in an isolated spot. What is more important is getting the leak issue resolved. Shoddy screw work, sloppy seals. I hung a piece of j-channel siding from the gutter to cover the top area, which will work great in non-windy, parked areas.

[Lifetimer]

Forest River custom made my front bed door, 2012 23SS this past March for $450. They just needed the vin number. I got it without hardware, just replaced from old door, and no decals, this saved $40.