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Old 10-29-2015, 04:15 PM   #21
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Although based on this, the majority runs AF through the water lines anyway.
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Old 10-29-2015, 04:37 PM   #22
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The valve that supplies water to the toilet froze and cracked. Would the AF backflow into the valve (and therefore protect it) if I step on the pedal just enough to open it?
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Old 10-29-2015, 04:37 PM   #23
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Winterization 102

I suppose the term "Winterization" takes on a whole different meaning for folks from different parts of the country. And, there seems to be an awful lot of broad brush painting of how/what is the best method.

For those living in 'warmer' climates, either just draining at the low point drains or a simple 'blow-out' most likely is all that is necessary for them. If it works for you, well all is well and good then.

For those like me, living where it gets really cold for extended periods of time, (I'm talking months where temps never get above freezing and usually is below 0) the winterization process really takes on a whole new meaning.

I start out by draining everything as best as possible through the low point drains. I always try to do this when LEAVING our campsite on the last outing of the season if at all possible. I simply open the low points, (leave them open) then crack open ALL the inside faucets and drive home.

By the time we get home, the rocking and sloshing of travel really does a super job of removing the water from the system.
Don't believe me? Try this sometime... after draining EVERYTHING you can from the low point drains, (no air) close them back up and take your rig around the block two or three times. Pull back in your driveway and re-open the low point drains. I GUARANTEE additional water will come out.

Then, I blow out the lines (including the black tank flush) with compressed air.
I do this for two reasons...
1. Even after the drive home, I always get some residual water by blowing with compressed air.

2. I can be 99.9999% sure once I start adding antifreeze that when I crack open a faucet, it will be 99.999% pure antifreeze. I use less antifreeze because I don't have to let it run an extended period of time hoping I've got the water flushed out ahead of the antifreeze.

In our climate, it is imperative to add antifreeze.
One drop of water in a pump head or faucet valve can cause havoc.
I have seen it on more than one occasion.

I did not touch on bypassing the WH, cracking the city water check valve, checking the water filter canister, adding antifreeze to the traps and tanks, etc., etc. as they have all been beaten to death. If you own an RV and do your own winterizing, you really should know about those anyway. If not, maybe the procedure is better left for the dealer/service center.

One more thing... my water system never sees 'contaminated' compressed air. I have a water/oil separator and a desiccant filter on my shop air compressor. I also realize some folks might not have these things with a typical 'home' air compressor but then again, most typical 'home' air compressors are oil-less (meaning they pump via a diaphragm and not an oil bathed piston) so contamination from within is nil and unless they are using their compressor in the middle of a dust storm, contamination from outside is nil as well.

Here's hoping you all winter well.
Looking forward to the warmer months when we can discuss whether it is safe to use bleach to flush the system for summer!
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Old 10-29-2015, 05:03 PM   #24
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I blow the lines out but I'm never positive that ALL the water is out. Adding the AF is just extra security and piece of mind.

That the thing. You don't have to get all the water out. A few droplets here and there won't hurt a thing. The freezing action does not do the damage. It's the expansion of the frozen water. As long as their is air-space for it to expand into, there will be no issue. Even a solid 'slug' of water (up to 20 or so pipe diameters) is ok as long as it has room to expand on both sides.

I guarantee that when I winterize, there is still some water here and there in my system. You can never get it all out. But I blow till I get mostly air, and do each tap twice. That has worked for me for years.

And it gets damn cold for a long time here in Missouri

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Old 10-29-2015, 05:07 PM   #25
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I simply open the low points, (leave them open) then crack open ALL the inside faucets and drive home.

Please don't do that. If you dribble water on a road that has not had a decent rainfall in a while, you will float up the oil and make it slicker than cat poop on linoleum. I ride a motorcycle a lot in the summer, and have had major pucker incidents a couple times because someone was putting water on what was an otherwise dry road.

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Old 11-10-2015, 01:35 PM   #26
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I have been following this forum since I bought a 21 BD. Looking for advice.

This is my fourth camper. I am totally happy with all of the help from you all.

But am not happy with comments on winterizing your camper.



I am a civil engineer with a minor in hydrology. IMO you should not pump

contaminated air through your lines unless that is all you plan to do.



There is no need to do this if you are going to then pump RV antifreeze through

the lines. The antifreeze will push out all of the water in the lines. The antifreeze will displace all of the water out, and there will be no need to "top

off" the lines to keep them full. Once the line are empty of water that could

freeze , you are done. You can open all of faucets and low drain lines to

drain any antifreeze in the system.



Empty water lines have no liquid in them to freeze.

I just blow all the water out of the lines, then put AF in tanks and toilet as well as drains, I always keep my Fresh tank dry so no need to put AF in there, but I never understood the debate over AF in all lines or just blow them all dry?

In the spring I will fill fresh tank with two cups of bleach and water then run it to all lines (Except HW tank, that always stays drained) until I have bleach and water in all lines, let it sit for two hours then flush it all out.

I also use a Camco inline blue filter before any CG water goes into the Roo keeps crap out and water doesn't smell when using it to brush our teeth. I have not had trouble with the FR inline Water Filter but I check it before pushing water through it every trip. I may cut that out and use a canister and inline filter outside before water goes into the camper just to keep RV free from well water sentiment.


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Old 11-28-2015, 01:52 PM   #27
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New info for me on blackwater tank

So, just was told that it is a good idea to "prep" the blackwater tank after flushing it out... would have been great to know when I bought it, but live and learn right.
So the rig is winterized in storage at the moment. Can I go and dump a few gallons of anti freeze in the blackwater tank and drop one of the blackwater treatment packets into it. Or would it not really do anything but waste a few gallons of anti freeze??

I was told that a good thing to do after I dump the tank is to place some water into the tank and then drop a treatment packet into the tank so it will slosh around and help clean and deodorized. I have it on my list to do from now on.

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Old 11-28-2015, 02:17 PM   #28
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No need to do that at this point, but during camping season, it's the way to go for a problem free tank and sensors !
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Old 11-29-2015, 03:13 AM   #29
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Can I go and dump a few gallons of anti freeze in the blackwater tank and drop one of the blackwater treatment packets into it. Or would it not really do anything but waste a few gallons of anti freeze??
Yep, wastage. If the BW tank was flushed good and completely drained, that's all the prep you need. Some residual H2O will not damage the tank when it gets cold. Treatment packets? More wastage. Especially when the mercury is consistently bouncing between -20 and -30 or more. Just make sure the tank is clean and well drained.

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