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Old 05-13-2016, 08:56 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by DocRob View Post
I think your right concerning the floor strength, but I was wondering if I were to open the area up a bit, and add some fiberglass mat and resin if I could produce a long standing stable table. Since I have the posts from another project I might give it a try next winter when I'm bored.

I would thru bolt it with a large piece of 3/4" plywood on the underside of the floor.

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Old 05-13-2016, 09:08 AM   #22
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DW and I were looking at TT/RVs one day and they had a new RV Ushaped dinette that was wobbly.. it was mounted on posts, but there were 2 of them. One was already pulled out of the floor. It scared me because the dinettes are hard to get out of(fat people) and I knew that would never hold up. When we got our 5er it had three posts and did pretty well. I figured if I ever got a 2 post job I would add a leg. JMO

totalled 04-11-16 by storm(picking up new one 10-26-16)
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Old 05-13-2016, 09:18 AM   #23
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wobbly table

Originally Posted by Mr Havercamp View Post
I would thru bolt it with a large piece of 3/4" plywood on the underside of the floor.
Good Thought, I'll need to look to see if I have room to do it. Frame member and fresh water tank are in the area, but might be able to do both fiberglass into the recessed hole for the flush mount base and use some plywood underneath. I'll send some pics if it works.
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Old 05-13-2016, 10:54 AM   #24
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My scissor table was also solid as a rock. The key word in the phrase is "was". After it slipped off the ledges when I used it as a bed it developed a wobble.

Now I am not suggesting or promoting this, but here is what I did. I stacked magazines under the middle of the bottom "feet" so it was just barely off of the ground. I then used my superior Jedi balance to literally stand on both ends of the "foot", which in a very subtle way bent them "straighter".

Wobble gone again. For now anyways.
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:42 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by DocRob View Post
In the older models they used posts with pedestals to support the dinettes. I'm not sure if the floor in these ultra lights will allow for this retrofit but I've got a couple of posts from another project and I would like to give it a try. Has anyone used these pedestal posts in newer Roo's? The table in my Roo 17 is OK but it's still new and doubt that it will go the distance.
Early on we swapped out the unreliable folding mechanism in the 21SS for a couple of surface mount posts. Worked perfectly. It was more stable and it gave us more leg room. (I was always scraping my knee on the front edge of that dang thing.) You just have to be careful to select screw lengths that won't go all the way through the floor of the slide out. (And not be bashful with a dead-blow hammer to seat those posts. . .)

We liked this setup so well we stole the parts from our 21SS before trade-in and reinstalled them in the 23IKSS. Luckily I had saved the original mechanism so I could reinstall it if needed. (Well, the truth is I don't throw much of anything away. . .)

Now this assumes you don't use the dinette for a bed for anyone but young'uns. The table top doesn't seem strong enough to hold very much weight without the folding hardware to support it. Since no one in my family has been small enough to fit in that space for almost 20 years there was certainly no loss of function for us.

2016 Roo 23IKSS / 2011 Tahoe
2011 Roo 21SS / 2011 Tahoe
2006 Bayside / 2006 4Runner
1999 SantaFe / 2001 Sienna
1967 Nimrod / 1998 Outback
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233, 233s, roo

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