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Old 01-27-2013, 09:24 PM   #11
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Make your first trip close to home... If you forgot anything you do not have far to go. The dealer will probably give you a starter kit with a cheap water regulator & power cord adapter in it. We use the more expensive adjustable water regulator & have for three years (would not go back) I did have to replace the guage on it after a freeze.
I'm old school I haven't bought the expensive leveling blocks I use scrap 2 x 12s.
Put together a tool kit.
Depending on the camp ground that you visit sometimes the power or sewer hooks are not close to where yours are so I keep an extra power extension cord (same as the trailer size) & extra sewer line section. (Probably not necessary right away)
May want a 110V extension cord.
Most everthing else I can think of was already covered.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:43 PM   #12
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I added a vent cover last summer. I purchased the Fantastic Vent cover. I put it over the vent with the power fan. I've purchased a second one to install this spring. This allows you to keep the vents open even if it is raining. Very happy with this addition.

I second the need for a power cord extention. I had to use one at one CG last summer.

Have fun!
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:52 PM   #13
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Somewhere on here is the Herk packing checklist (that the DW had just this evening updating).

As to the surge protector, I recommend you look at my review on the Franks Autotransformer. With ANY surge protector, "cheap" is not your friend.

While a false sense of security may let you sleep at night, a transient voltage up or down (or a corroded neutral in a 50 amp service) can wipe out the camper's electronics in a heart beat.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:37 PM   #14
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i would suggest another water hose. we were at a campground and the spigot was just thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much too far away. granted we only had the 25ft hose, but it was enough to require a trip to wally world (fun place to shop)
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:44 PM   #15
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i would suggest another water hose. we were at a campground and the spigot was just thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much too far away. granted we only had the 25ft hose, but it was enough to require a trip to wally world (fun place to shop)
This is why I keep water in my freshwater tank and keep the tank sanitized. We had the same thing happen to us last year. We ran off of our FW tank for two days (of a 3-week trip) before a stop at Walmart or a RV shop was convenient for us.
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Old 01-27-2013, 10:56 PM   #16
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A 1 1/16" socket to remove the drain plug for the hot water heater, and all the chemicale you need to sanitize the fresh water system, and the stuff to go into the toilets. Other than that everything else has pretty much been brought up.
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Old 01-27-2013, 11:31 PM   #17
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I just wanted to comment on the adjustable water pressure gauge. You are right. They are pricey. I think I paid about $65 for the one I got, which has a large dial and is adjusted with a screw driver to increase or decrease the available pressure.
I have been using mine for about three years and love it. I understand that the regular pressure gauges limit the pressure to about 45 psi. My gauge allows me to use as much pressure as the campground water system offers, balanced by how high I dare to turn it up. My comfort level is 60 psi and no more. This allows me to have great showers with no problems so far with springing leaks in my plumbing. Others may not be comfortable with such high pressure.
As for the gauge itself, I can look inside and see that it physically blocks the water when I turn the screw, so that part is all mechanical. I suppose the dial could fail or give incorrect readings, but I haven't had a problem.
It DOES take some getting used to. If I have it on a system that only provides 30 psi, I will be running it wide open, and I'll need to dial it back down before attaching it to a system that's pumping out 100 psi.
I hope this is helpful to anyone who might be considering the adjustable type.
I'm not sure why you have to adjust your pressure regulator when the campground pressure is low. The pressure at your RV is going to be the lesser of the CG pressure or your regulator setting. If you set the regulator at 60 psi and the CG pressure is 30 psi, you'll get 30 whether you open the regulator further or not. On the other hand, if the regulator is set at 60 and the pressure is anything higher, the pressure at the RV will be 60.

It seems to me that you can just set the regulator at 60 psi, or any other maximum that you want, and then just leave it alone.
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Old 01-28-2013, 09:49 PM   #18
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I've purchased a few more supplies, but one thing that has me stumped a bit - what do you all recommend as far as a lock for the Equalizer weight distribution hitch?

Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?

Forgive me if my terminology is incorrect...thanks for your input!
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:10 PM   #19
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Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?
I can't help with the hitch question- my pop-up didn't need anything other than cheap sway control and then I moved to the fifth wheel.

As for locks- I always locked the coupler closed with a simple padlock. That was more a throw back to my kayak guiding days and the company requiring it than a need; case in point- I didn't lock the shank of the ball to the hitch on the truck. That was always removed after I unhitched the pop-up. I always saw it as a potential shin-buster for me.

For security at the storage lot and when it was at home in the driveway- I was pretty lax. I locked the coupler closed with the simple padlock. My propane tanks were covered, I never locked them. The door was locked and I used a small luggage padlock for the storage box. We never locked our battery box.

That said- we are the oddball RVers in our relatively low crime community. Some people will lock the coupler with special coupler locks AND run chains thru the tires/over the axles. Our storage lot seems very secure. Though, common thefts on campers are propane and batteries, usually from someone who already had access to the storage lot.

It's all up to your personal level of risk and risk management needs.
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:30 PM   #20
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I've purchased a few more supplies, but one thing that has me stumped a bit - what do you all recommend as far as a lock for the Equalizer weight distribution hitch?

Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?

Forgive me if my terminology is incorrect...thanks for your input!

You need a lock or pin to put in the latch handle (has a small hole through it) that holds the trailer on the ball in the possible event that the latch works open. (Not so much for theft) Don't want to loose the trailer going down the road...Also helps you to know the latch is closed....
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