Yet another what else do I need thread...

[RedStick]

We pick up the Roo 23ss Wednesday, Jan 30th. So far, I've purchased:


50 foot fresh water hose
Ill be using a spare hose that is not currently in use for the black tank
Rhino flex kit
Lynx levelers (one unit, do I need another?)
Lynx leveler caps (1 pack includes 4 caps)
Wye hose two way connector
Sidewinder plastic sewer hose support
socket for leveling using my cordless drill
Awning lights - what's an awning w/o lights?
Chocks - x chocks 2 of them
F150 slide over side mirrors

Items on the list:
Awning rug
Water pressure regulator - any ideas on an effective low cost model
Surge protector - same as above - low cost, effective model
Pig tail for hooking fridge up to house when prepping for trip
50-30 amp adaptor

What else? I'm looking for the essentials as we've got the of gear that we will be utilizing from our tent camping days. We will also need to outfit the bathroom, kitchen with the usual supplies.

Thanks for the help!

[Dave_Monica]

Originally Posted by RedStick

Items on the list:
Awning rug
Water pressure regulator - any ideas on an effective low cost model

I find that we they work fine. I've been told not to bother with the more expensive, adjustable ones as they don't work properly for very long. I've also not used the regulator and just adjusted the flow at the faucet of the hook-up, if it's that style.

Surge protector - same as above - low cost, effective model

Can't help you there. I installed a 30A hard-wired surge protector.

Pig tail for hooking fridge up to house when prepping for trip

You should carry a 20A to 30A adapter always as some sites are only 20A.

50-30 amp adaptor

I wouldn't bother. Most sites with 50A also have 30A and 20A receptacles.

Dave

[mjones12]

Originally Posted by Dave_Monica

Dave

I just wanted to comment on the adjustable water pressure gauge. You are right. They are pricey. I think I paid about $65 for the one I got, which has a large dial and is adjusted with a screw driver to increase or decrease the available pressure.
I have been using mine for about three years and love it. I understand that the regular pressure gauges limit the pressure to about 45 psi. My gauge allows me to use as much pressure as the campground water system offers, balanced by how high I dare to turn it up. My comfort level is 60 psi and no more. This allows me to have great showers with no problems so far with springing leaks in my plumbing. Others may not be comfortable with such high pressure.
As for the gauge itself, I can look inside and see that it physically blocks the water when I turn the screw, so that part is all mechanical. I suppose the dial could fail or give incorrect readings, but I haven't had a problem.
It DOES take some getting used to. If I have it on a system that only provides 30 psi, I will be running it wide open, and I'll need to dial it back down before attaching it to a system that's pumping out 100 psi.
I hope this is helpful to anyone who might be considering the adjustable type.

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by RedStick

Lynx levelers (one unit, do I need another?)
Lynx leveler caps (1 pack includes 4 caps)

Sidewinder plastic sewer hose support

There's not a whole lot else that I can recommend - I remember our first few camping trips and subsequent trips to Walmart/local RV shop!

A couple of comments on the items I quoted above - I started with 2 packs of Lynx Levelers and actually just bought a third set to make leveling in front of my house easier. I need a stack 4 blocks tall to cover both wheels and have a ramp to make driving up onto them. You might consider at least 1 more. I also carry a couple of 2x12s that are about 24" long and a couple of 1x6, just as backups. I personally like having something hard under my stabilizers/landing gear instead of going straight to the ground.

I've never used the plastic sewer hose supports. I understand the concept and would probably use them if I were staying somewhere longer, but I figure from the "gushing" of opening the tank valves, there's enough force to make it to the sewer connection. When I'm done and am disconnecting, I undo the hose from the camper first and then raise the hose up as I walk back to the sewer connection. A year/50 nights of camping and haven't had a problem (yet?).

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by RedStick

socket for leveling using my cordless drill

What do you mean by leveling?

[TURBS]

I agree two bags minimum for lynx levelers.

Stabilizer jacks should not be used for leveling but only to stabilize.
Hence 》》》》 stabilizers

Turbs

[RedStick]

You are correct, I won't be using the stabilizer jacks to level, wrong terminology used by me!


Thanks for looking after me though as I will need all the help i can get!

I'll pick up an extra set of the lynx levelers and stop by to grab some lumber. Good ideas!

[rockfordroo]

We bought/take a small electric heater - also, many folks have changed out the mechancial thermostat for the furnace with a digital one. I've bought one (Honeywell RTH111), but have not yet installed it.

I also got a 90 degree fitting for the city water hose. I don't like a hose sticking straight out from the camper. Too much stress on the fitting in my opinion. Plus it allows me to route the hose under the camper easier. Makes the campsite a lot neater if I can keep most of the freshwater hose and electric line under the camper.

Don't forget hitch locks and a brake controller.

[keven]

I would get a wand to rinse out your black tank. Also a clear fitting to go between you Rhino hose and black tank so you can see what's coming out and to know when your done cleaning the black tank. Extra fuses wouldn't be bad to have, I had the fuse for my slide blow a fuse first trip out.. If the fuse blows for your slide its under the trailer not to far from the water heater. We also carry a broom and a swifter to clean the floors right before we leave.

[RvBill3]

A tool box with basic tools. A flashlight or two. First aid kit. Digital volt meter. Assortment of screws, bolts, wire nuts, cable ties, electric and duct tape. You get the idea.

[Oaklevel]

Make your first trip close to home... If you forgot anything you do not have far to go. The dealer will probably give you a starter kit with a cheap water regulator & power cord adapter in it. We use the more expensive adjustable water regulator & have for three years (would not go back) I did have to replace the guage on it after a freeze.
I'm old school I haven't bought the expensive leveling blocks I use scrap 2 x 12s.
Put together a tool kit.
Depending on the camp ground that you visit sometimes the power or sewer hooks are not close to where yours are so I keep an extra power extension cord (same as the trailer size) & extra sewer line section. (Probably not necessary right away)
May want a 110V extension cord.
Most everthing else I can think of was already covered.

[GlacierGus]

I added a vent cover last summer. I purchased the Fantastic Vent cover. I put it over the vent with the power fan. I've purchased a second one to install this spring. This allows you to keep the vents open even if it is raining. Very happy with this addition.

I second the need for a power cord extention. I had to use one at one CG last summer.

Have fun!

[Herk7769]

Somewhere on here is the Herk packing checklist (that the DW had just this evening updating).

As to the surge protector, I recommend you look at my review on the Franks Autotransformer. With ANY surge protector, "cheap" is not your friend.

While a false sense of security may let you sleep at night, a transient voltage up or down (or a corroded neutral in a 50 amp service) can wipe out the camper's electronics in a heart beat.

[dwaynerz]

i would suggest another water hose. we were at a campground and the spigot was just thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much too far away. granted we only had the 25ft hose, but it was enough to require a trip to wally world (fun place to shop)

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by dwaynerz

i would suggest another water hose. we were at a campground and the spigot was just thiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiis much too far away. granted we only had the 25ft hose, but it was enough to require a trip to wally world (fun place to shop)

This is why I keep water in my freshwater tank and keep the tank sanitized. We had the same thing happen to us last year. We ran off of our FW tank for two days (of a 3-week trip) before a stop at Walmart or a RV shop was convenient for us.

[SYE]

A 1 1/16" socket to remove the drain plug for the hot water heater, and all the chemicale you need to sanitize the fresh water system, and the stuff to go into the toilets. Other than that everything else has pretty much been brought up.

[F.R.O.G.]

Originally Posted by mjones12

I just wanted to comment on the adjustable water pressure gauge. You are right. They are pricey. I think I paid about $65 for the one I got, which has a large dial and is adjusted with a screw driver to increase or decrease the available pressure.
I have been using mine for about three years and love it. I understand that the regular pressure gauges limit the pressure to about 45 psi. My gauge allows me to use as much pressure as the campground water system offers, balanced by how high I dare to turn it up. My comfort level is 60 psi and no more. This allows me to have great showers with no problems so far with springing leaks in my plumbing. Others may not be comfortable with such high pressure.
As for the gauge itself, I can look inside and see that it physically blocks the water when I turn the screw, so that part is all mechanical. I suppose the dial could fail or give incorrect readings, but I haven't had a problem.
It DOES take some getting used to. If I have it on a system that only provides 30 psi, I will be running it wide open, and I'll need to dial it back down before attaching it to a system that's pumping out 100 psi.
I hope this is helpful to anyone who might be considering the adjustable type.

I'm not sure why you have to adjust your pressure regulator when the campground pressure is low. The pressure at your RV is going to be the lesser of the CG pressure or your regulator setting. If you set the regulator at 60 psi and the CG pressure is 30 psi, you'll get 30 whether you open the regulator further or not. On the other hand, if the regulator is set at 60 and the pressure is anything higher, the pressure at the RV will be 60.

It seems to me that you can just set the regulator at 60 psi, or any other maximum that you want, and then just leave it alone.

[RedStick]

I've purchased a few more supplies, but one thing that has me stumped a bit - what do you all recommend as far as a lock for the Equalizer weight distribution hitch?

Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?

Forgive me if my terminology is incorrect...thanks for your input!

[ependydad]

Originally Posted by RedStick

Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?

I can't help with the hitch question- my pop-up didn't need anything other than cheap sway control and then I moved to the fifth wheel.

As for locks- I always locked the coupler closed with a simple padlock. That was more a throw back to my kayak guiding days and the company requiring it than a need; case in point- I didn't lock the shank of the ball to the hitch on the truck. That was always removed after I unhitched the pop-up. I always saw it as a potential shin-buster for me.

For security at the storage lot and when it was at home in the driveway- I was pretty lax. I locked the coupler closed with the simple padlock. My propane tanks were covered, I never locked them. The door was locked and I used a small luggage padlock for the storage box. We never locked our battery box.

That said- we are the oddball RVers in our relatively low crime community. Some people will lock the coupler with special coupler locks AND run chains thru the tires/over the axles. Our storage lot seems very secure. Though, common thefts on campers are propane and batteries, usually from someone who already had access to the storage lot.

It's all up to your personal level of risk and risk management needs.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by RedStick

I've purchased a few more supplies, but one thing that has me stumped a bit - what do you all recommend as far as a lock for the Equalizer weight distribution hitch?

Secondly, do you worry about a pin lock for the shank while camping? I'm more than likely going to remove the shank from the receiver on the truck when the Roo is in storage, so I'm not certain I need that. More importantly, what do you recommend I purchase to lock up the hitch when the Roo is in storage? Do I need to chain the propane tanks too?

Forgive me if my terminology is incorrect...thanks for your input!

You need a lock or pin to put in the latch handle (has a small hole through it) that holds the trailer on the ball in the possible event that the latch works open. (Not so much for theft) Don't want to loose the trailer going down the road...Also helps you to know the latch is closed....