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Old 08-13-2015, 05:54 PM   #21
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Anyone else have any mods to their trailers?

I would love to see some new ideas to improve my RV
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312QBUD Owners Thread
2015 Wildwood Heritage Glen 312QBUD
2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 08-13-2015, 07:07 PM   #22
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Welcome to the forum and thanks for starting the thread. We have our 312 for a couple of years.... and still getting the bugs out.

Slide problems
Axle and hub problems
Fresh water tank self draining problems.

The factory does not fill the spindle and hub cavity with axle grease. 'Manuel' says to pull hubs and repack bearing once a year(do it or 'your warranty' on your axles are voided). I would jack you tires off the ground and pull them in and out to make sure that the bearings/castle nut are tight. Also the carter key in the spindle is about as cheap as they come and will/may break.

My trailer brakes are self adjusting when braking -GOING FORWARD-. See if you have this style and check them and back them off when need be.

I had to get a Thin Wall Socket to be able to take the wheels off, as a 4-way will not work.

Fresh water tank would self siphon out more of the water at the breather tube so I installed a shut off valve and open it up when set up at camp.

Keep an eye on your tires, I have D rated tires that came with the unit and on 'china bomb' exploded with about 200 miles on it after I bought it. I now have two spares with me at all times. I installed one of these BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

Learn how to use the over ride controls on your slides outs. When you have a jam up you will want to know how to get them in/out. My slide would go out ok, but coming in, the 'slide' would tilt down and drag too hard on the rollers on the floor under the slide. Found out that the in wall carriage would kick out at the bottom and push out the outside panel and loosened the outside screws that kept the Assembly in the wall. Ended up drilling a few more screw holes and put in some heavier screws to stop the movement on the main slide.

The outside kitchen door (up/down) was jamming and found out that the screws holding it along the top were not heavy enough to hold it up and they will work out.

The inside kitchen faucet looks nice, but it is cheap junk that will leak badly everywhere. Replace it with a home one that you like from Home Depot/Lowes/etc.

You will want to put scissor jacks under it, as the 'stabilizers' too little to nothing in stabilizing it or holding it up (gets a lot of weight off the electric jack when camping with the scissor jacks). I use quick release plates (save a jack) and pull the jacks off when going down the road.
SaveAJack.com

I also have a canopy hold down kit and poles from "OC".
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...les-85132.html

Also get a surge protector.
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2013 Forest River Salem Hemisphere SBT312QBUD

2001 CrewCab F-250 7.3 PowerStroke Diesel
SuperChip, BTS transmission, 6.0 Trans Cooler
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Old 08-15-2015, 04:58 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
Welcome to the forum and thanks for starting the thread. We have our 312 for a couple of years.... and still getting the bugs out.

Slide problems
Axle and hub problems
Fresh water tank self draining problems.

The factory does not fill the spindle and hub cavity with axle grease. 'Manuel' says to pull hubs and repack bearing once a year(do it or 'your warranty' on your axles are voided). I would jack you tires off the ground and pull them in and out to make sure that the bearings/castle nut are tight. Also the carter key in the spindle is about as cheap as they come and will/may break.

My trailer brakes are self adjusting when braking -GOING FORWARD-. See if you have this style and check them and back them off when need be.

I had to get a Thin Wall Socket to be able to take the wheels off, as a 4-way will not work.

Fresh water tank would self siphon out more of the water at the breather tube so I installed a shut off valve and open it up when set up at camp.

Keep an eye on your tires, I have D rated tires that came with the unit and on 'china bomb' exploded with about 200 miles on it after I bought it. I now have two spares with me at all times. I installed one of these BAL - Innovative Products for the RV Industry

Learn how to use the over ride controls on your slides outs. When you have a jam up you will want to know how to get them in/out. My slide would go out ok, but coming in, the 'slide' would tilt down and drag too hard on the rollers on the floor under the slide. Found out that the in wall carriage would kick out at the bottom and push out the outside panel and loosened the outside screws that kept the Assembly in the wall. Ended up drilling a few more screw holes and put in some heavier screws to stop the movement on the main slide.

The outside kitchen door (up/down) was jamming and found out that the screws holding it along the top were not heavy enough to hold it up and they will work out.

The inside kitchen faucet looks nice, but it is cheap junk that will leak badly everywhere. Replace it with a home one that you like from Home Depot/Lowes/etc.

You will want to put scissor jacks under it, as the 'stabilizers' too little to nothing in stabilizing it or holding it up (gets a lot of weight off the electric jack when camping with the scissor jacks). I use quick release plates (save a jack) and pull the jacks off when going down the road.
SaveAJack.com

I also have a canopy hold down kit and poles from "OC".
http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...les-85132.html

Also get a surge protector.
With your stablizers did you find they worked better with less pressure on the pads or more??

I have been trying to get rid of bounce on my trailer and sometimes the trailer is really solid other times it is really bouncy....I was just wondering if sometimes I am extending the stabilizers too far and it is putting too much pressure on the frame causing the bounce.

What do you guys think?
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312QBUD Owners Thread
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2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:31 AM   #24
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Jgourlie. Sorry for the late response I have out with very very bad cell service. I have a family of five boys and me and the wife.
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Old 08-17-2015, 08:48 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by jgourlie View Post
With your stablizers did you find they worked better with less pressure on the pads or more??

I have been trying to get rid of bounce on my trailer and sometimes the trailer is really solid other times it is really bouncy....I was just wondering if sometimes I am extending the stabilizers too far and it is putting too much pressure on the frame causing the bounce.

What do you guys think?

Read my last paragraph about scissor jacks on my last post. The 'stabilizers' don't hold very much weight. If you tighten them to the extreme, they will bend. You want a 'tight' fit from the ground to the unit to keep the unit from bouncing. the 'bounce' comes from the leaf springs moving up and down/ back and forth, this must be stopped. Scissor jacks and an X wheel chocks will do this for you.

Amazon.com: X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012: Automotive
Stabilizer Jack Scissor Jack Trailer Jack | etrailer.com
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:54 AM   #26
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Jgourlie. Sorry for the late response I have out with very very bad cell service. I have a family of five boys and me and the wife.
Wow, yes I believe 5 boys would be a tight fit....that is a big family for sure.

As for late responses, I don't believe this thread is going anywhere anytime soon....I am hoping we get years of ideas and mods for our trailers from this thread.

I just have 1 baby girl and 1 girl on the way, we thought the floor plan would be perfect for our little family. I am curious to see how you manage with 5 kids.

Keep us updated,
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2015 Wildwood Heritage Glen 312QBUD
2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 08-17-2015, 09:58 AM   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brother Les View Post
Read my last paragraph about scissor jacks on my last post. The 'stabilizers' don't hold very much weight. If you tighten them to the extreme, they will bend. You want a 'tight' fit from the ground to the unit to keep the unit from bouncing. the 'bounce' comes from the leaf springs moving up and down/ back and forth, this must be stopped. Scissor jacks and an X wheel chocks will do this for you.

Amazon.com: X-Chock Wheel Stabilizer - Pair - One Handle - 28012: Automotive
Stabilizer Jack Scissor Jack Trailer Jack | etrailer.com
I built some homemade x-chocks that I have been using which seem to help.

The scissor jacks seems like a good idea also. I was strongly considering getting jtr Strongarms or some equilvalent, but scissor jacks may be a more cost effective route.

So you are saying just snug is the way to go on the stabilizers, not a little extra push of the button to get them really tight?

I guess that is what I am most curious about your guy's opinions on that
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2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 08-17-2015, 10:06 AM   #28
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Quote:
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I built some homemade x-chocks that I have been using which seem to help.

The scissor jacks seems like a good idea also. I was strongly considering getting jtr Strongarms or some equilvalent, but scissor jacks may be a more cost effective route.

So you are saying just snug is the way to go on the stabilizers, not a little extra push of the button to get them really tight?

I guess that is what I am most curious about your guy's opinions on that

I put a set of scissor jacks just behind the front stabilizers and just to the front of the back bumper. I do not use the 'stabilizers' unless we only stay for one night and do not use the scissor jacks. Put a board under the stabilizers foot so the foot does not dig into the ground and snug it up to where is just starts to 'lift' the unit. Anything beyond that and you may bend the supports. Some people have beefed up the stabilizer arms where they will not bend. But to lift the unit to where it will not 'bounce' on the leaf springs while parked, you need some good scissor jacks. IF you use the stabilizers to lift the unit to stop the bounce of the leaf springs, you are asking too much from the stabilizers and they will after a time bend or destroy the threads.
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Old 10-21-2015, 06:23 PM   #29
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Question for the fellow Qbud owners. I have noticed while towing the trailer that the drivers side fender is vibrating pretty heavily in the wind. On the passenger side there is a metal support brace connected to the frame to support the fender but on my unit on the drivers side there is nothing because the fender is part of the slide.

Has anyone else noticed the same problem?? or rather do your rigs have some kind of support??
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:08 PM   #30
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I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary with the fender. I will be traveling about 4 hours round trip this weekend and will try to pay more attention to it and report back.
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Old 10-21-2015, 08:10 PM   #31
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I haven't noticed anything out of the ordinary with the fender. I will be traveling about 4 hours round trip this weekend and will try to pay more attention to it and report back.
It was fairly obvious to me when I was looking in the drivers mirror....I would appreciate you reporting back, if yours isn't a problem I might have to make it a warranty issue for my unit.
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2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 10-22-2015, 07:58 AM   #32
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Originally Posted by jgourlie View Post
Question for the fellow Qbud owners. I have noticed while towing the trailer that the drivers side fender is vibrating pretty heavily in the wind. On the passenger side there is a metal support brace connected to the frame to support the fender but on my unit on the drivers side there is nothing because the fender is part of the slide.

Has anyone else noticed the same problem?? or rather do your rigs have some kind of support??

Mine flaps in the wind.... (air flow gong down the road) also very badly. Not a lot of support as it is attached at the slide out. With enough flopping around it will start to crack at the screw holder area around the fender. Dealer will not 'fix' the flopping issue under warrenty, but will replace the cracked fender because of the screws while it is under warrenty, but not after warrenty is over.
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:00 AM   #33
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Mine flaps in the wind.... (air flow gong down the road) also very badly. Not a lot of support as it is attached at the slide out. With enough flopping around it will start to crack at the screw holder area around the fender. Dealer will not 'fix' the flopping issue under warrenty, but will replace the cracked fender because of the screws while it is under warrenty, but not after warrenty is over.
I was thinking about it, I wonder if you attached a metal brace to the floor of the slide if that would help. Probably not as strong as attaching to the frame, but maybe better than nothing at all.

What do you guys think?
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Old 10-22-2015, 10:05 AM   #34
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I was thinking about it, I wonder if you attached a metal brace to the floor of the slide if that would help. Probably not as strong as attaching to the frame, but maybe better than nothing at all.

What do you guys think?

Not advised.... the flapping will cause damage where you attach to the wood floor and degrade that area.
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:08 PM   #35
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I went outside and looked at mine and there is a brace already there. I then tried to wiggle the fender and it had very little wiggle in it. Maybe you guys are missing the brace?
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:09 PM   #36
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I went outside and looked at mine and there is a brace already there. I then tried to wiggle the fender and it had very little wiggle in it. Maybe you guys are missing the brace?
Your driver side has a brace??? hmmmm would you be able to take a picture for me??
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2000 Chev 2500 Extended Cab 6 Liter
1400lbs Equal-i-zer Hitch
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:14 PM   #37
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Give me a few mins
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Old 10-22-2015, 03:19 PM   #38
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Mine is a 2015 what year is yours?
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Old 10-22-2015, 05:50 PM   #39
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I have a 2015 also...is yours a hemisphere or heritage glen??

that sure looks like what I was thinking would work....i wonder if i can make it a warranty item
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Old 10-22-2015, 06:50 PM   #40
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Mine is a hemisphere. Yours?
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