5er landing gear question

jimmie2gunns · 04-01-2016, 01:41 PM

We recently traded our Heritage Glen TT for a 2016 Chapparal 360IBL FW. My question is in regards to lowering the landing gear. If I am extending the legs, do I need to make on leg longer than the other when setting up on uneven ground or do I just extend them out the same number of holes with the spring pins and then hit the button to extend them to the ground and level the trailer from front to back? I'm concerned about twisting the frame if I do this wrong. There were a couple of campgrounds where we stayed last year that were sloped side to side, making one side of our trailer higher off the ground than the other when leveled. Never a concern with the TT, but wondering if it would be with landing gear instead of a tongue jack. I looked for a thread regarding this question but couldnt find any.

tmfaulksr · 04-01-2016, 01:52 PM

great question as i am curious to read the responses myself.

Justice12t · 04-01-2016, 01:56 PM

5picker · 04-01-2016, 02:04 PM

If you get your rig fairly level by using some kind of blocks/boards under the tires when first setting up then the extended length of each landing gear pad will be adjusted so they are both of equal distance to the ground (or block if used) as needed, regardless of whether it is the same amount of holes.

If you kept both landing gear lengths the same number of holes down and the distance to the ground was uneven, one leg would touch first and try to do all the weight lifting, creating the frame twist you referred to. That's bad.

EDIT... While the holes in the legs will get you close, I always carry several thickness's of boards to be able to do what I described above

KRSmitty · 04-01-2016, 02:04 PM

I traded a Jayco 5er in for a Heritage Glen TT...

Anyway...I always made sure the 5er was level, then pulled the pins to drop the landing gear. I then pressed the extend button and let the pins snap into place...equalizing themselves.

jheacox1 · 04-01-2016, 02:05 PM

I block up the lower side so I'm down the same number of holes then raise it up to unhitch and lower if necessary once unhitched. Hope I've been doing it right.

2015 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8281WS
2015 F250 Crew Cab

5picker · 04-01-2016, 02:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jheacox1

I block up the lower side so I'm down the same number of holes then raise it up to unhitch and lower if necessary once unhitched. Hope I've been doing it right.

2015 Rockwood Signature Ultra Lite 8281WS
2015 F250 Crew Cab

No need to block up the lower side as long as you have enough adjustment holes to make up the distance and still be able to raise your unit for unhitching. Once you lower one side to touch the ground, simply lower the other to do the same. Makes no difference to the jack leg as far as lifting whether one side is longer than the other side as long as they both touch at the same time.

BBQGUY · 04-01-2016, 02:15 PM

Good Question, and from your question it will be assumed until posted differently you have only a single motor on the front landing gear so both legs extend at the same time. Will also assume you have leveled the FW from side to side by placing blocks on the low side and pulling the FW on the blocks. If this is the case then blocking will most likely need to placed under the foot plates of the front jacks on the low side to try and level the front of the FW. You can also choose a different hole for the pin if needed. It is best to extend the jack at least 1/2 the distance to the ground before dropping inter jack leg tube. Having a single motor system does make it difficult to level the front. May take some trial and error. Consider adding one of these to one or both of the jacks or consider changing to a dual motor system. https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...17-940007.html

jimmie2gunns · 04-01-2016, 02:18 PM

So, I'm not being overly cautious. I knew I could get a good answer here. I've only had it out once, and we camped on a site that was level from sided to side, so no problem. I got to wondering when I was putting down my rear stabilizers. I have the electric ones that come down together on each side and equalize themselves with ground contact. Didn't think landing gear worked like that, but wanted to be sure. To all that answered, Thanks for helping me out.

5er_tom · 04-01-2016, 03:16 PM

I have an adjustable foot on one side. I put the legs down and when the non-adjustable foot is almost touching the ground, I wind down the adjustable foot so it is at the same distance from the ground as the other foot. A friend gave it to me so I am not sure where one can be purchased.

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peterbilt · 04-01-2016, 03:47 PM

i do the same as post 67

Witch Doctor · 04-01-2016, 04:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5picker

No need to block up the lower side as long as you have enough adjustment holes to make up the distance and still be able to raise your unit for unhitching. Once you lower one side to touch the ground, simply lower the other to do the same. Makes no difference to the jack leg as far as lifting whether one side is longer than the other side as long as they both touch at the same time.

X's2 5 picker is correct. The only thing I would add is that you want to drop the shortest distance because of stabilization the more leg drop the less stable the front end would be. That's when the JT stabilizers are worth the money....I never just went to unhook with not lowing the landing gear a little so I knew I had stroke to work with to make a fine adjustment. It's trial and error but you will get the hang of it. A tip that I learned the hard way, never bring them up 100% till they will not go up any farther. You will trip the breaker everytime. I drew a line about an inch down so I couldn't do that and stopped. Yet still had plenty of clearance for travel. I almost had to stand on my head to reset that little breaker, mine was located behind the battery box, I had to call my dealer. After that I put in an auto reset 40 amp that the dealer sent me. But I still stopped at that line when I brought them up.....

jimmie2gunns · 04-01-2016, 04:50 PM

BBQGuy put a link for that adjustable foot. Probably going to buy a pair of them. I have the JT strong arms on my coach. I'm very happy with how they stabilize my unit. When I raise my landing gear I stop when I reach the factory paint line on the legs. Seemed like a pretty good reference point and no blown fuse (good info to have though, thanks). It's been a seamless transition into a fifth wheel and wish I had done it sooner. Don't tell my DW I said that, or I'll hear "I told you so" for the rest of the camping season. I'm sure I'll have more questions down the road but I've been on this site for a couple of years now and have learned tons of info.

bplantcjf · 04-02-2016, 11:27 AM

a friend added a second motor and switch. Now lowers them individually and doesn't worry about uneven ground.

frozen · 04-02-2016, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 5er_tom

I have an adjustable foot on one side. I put the legs down and when the non-adjustable foot is almost touching the ground, I wind down the adjustable foot so it is at the same distance from the ground as the other foot. A friend gave it to me so I am not sure where one can be purchased.

Sent from my iPhone using Forest River Forums

Try Googling Ultra-fab 17-940007 for an adjustable pad for landing gear.

bbaker2001 · 04-02-2016, 01:22 PM

I too carry a few pieces of plywood to level the jacks. after leveling the wheels, sometimes I still might be 1/2 inch off. I have made blocks 12x12x8 to put under the front jacks, do not like to extend the jacks all the way down. have found it does make it more stable. I place the blocks down and then plywood down to get the jacks as close to level as I can

happy camping
cant wait for Jackson Rally

18CrewDually · 04-02-2016, 01:36 PM

I guess no one else has hydraulic landing gear? No worries with a hydraulic set up because it self balances left to right.

OldCoot · 04-02-2016, 01:40 PM

I really see no need for adjustable pads. the holes are spaced @ 1" o.c and that's close enough for me. The rear stabs I try to get as extended as possible to make them more stable. Of course, the legs on mine are reinforced and have alum covered Linx blocks bolted to the bottom as do the axle stab and the landing gear.

Harkerr · 04-02-2016, 01:48 PM

I simply drop both legs and then run the jack motor to lift. The leg pins will snap in by themselves. I normally put 4X6 blocks down first to spread the load out and reduce the length of the extended leg for stability.

MOODMAN · 04-02-2016, 02:10 PM

Here's something to carefully consider...I found out the hard way.

If you pull into a site that is LOWER at the rear, extend the landing gear out more than half way using the motor, and then unpin the extension part of the legs to the ground. This will give you enough travel to be able to unhitch from the truck, and then you will also have enough vertical travel to compensate so that you can level the rig front to back.It will mean that your front end, after leveling, will be very low to the ground and the rear will be high.

OTOH, if you are pulling into a site which is HIGH at the rear, unpin the extension part of the legs out as far as you feel comfortable (you have to play with this to get experience to know how much to extend), and then use the electric motor to unhitch. Then, of course, you will have enough travel left to compensate for the high back end of your site.

You may want to put marks on the legs(the upper parts) for the amount of slope you may experience in different campgrounds. Also put a halfway mark on them so you don't extend too far. It takes practice, but it's worth it.

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