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Old 09-05-2015, 10:50 AM   #11
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I think you should be just fine then.

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Old 09-05-2015, 11:26 AM   #12
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My 2010 Rockwood does have a heat duck in the pass-thru....only problem was when the under-belly was installed, 2 of the ducts were torn in after I replaced them, all's well. Have camped in 20 degree weather, and use an oil filled ok for me. Only problem, was leaving awning out.....pivot points froze and had to thaw 'em out to retract. Will be addressing hose to pedestal soon.....

Bob/Linda, 99 Dodge 2500 Cummins,2010 8280 Rockwood Ultra-lite 5er, PullRite Superglide----- I'm retired......but work part time as a pain in the ass!........... USMC.
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:36 PM   #13
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Good timing as we are driving into Yellowstone as we speak and temps expected into the high 20s we have a Work n Play 34.5 and do not have an enclosed underbelly....we have a heated hose, and plan on keeping about a cup of RV antifreeze in the grey and black tanks....we will keep our furnace set at 60 and use a little buddy propane inside at night....hopefully this will be OK! Any thoughts?
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Old 09-05-2015, 12:42 PM   #14
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Depends on what day time temps warm up to.....can't really say that having an enclosed underbelly does a lot....cold is cold! Faucet slightly on would help...some places ask you to disconnect hoses at night.
Bob/Linda, 99 Dodge 2500 Cummins,2010 8280 Rockwood Ultra-lite 5er, PullRite Superglide----- I'm retired......but work part time as a pain in the ass!........... USMC.
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Old 09-05-2015, 01:25 PM   #15
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I have lived in my FR XLR Viper for the last 3 winters. I made all my mistakes in the first one and have had no problems since then. I use a heated water hose that is contained in 1 inch pipe insulation (from Lowe's), that is plugged into my shore power station. I let the farthest faucet just trickle both cold and hot water to keep the water moving through the night. If not, then it will stop at the master bath and not reach the kitchen faucet. I put a reflective flood lamp in the basement area to keep the water closet space above freezing. I use 2 ceramic space heaters set on low, so as to not over load the circuit, and the thermostat set on 68. In the bedroom area I use another space heater and electric blanket. It is important to keep that water moving at night, or you will have no water in the morning. This is what worked best for the open plains of Oklahoma during the winter. I am pretty sure it would work everywhere else also. Best of luck....

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Old 09-05-2015, 03:08 PM   #16
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Hve 2016 prime Time spartan 1234x ondulation is R-50 cargo And all tank have heating pads plus hot air blowing under double thermos panes Windows think i could survived cold weather also have sticker on it says extreme weather package
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:31 PM   #17
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Our last trip out last November it dropped to about 14F overnight. We had the oil filled heater on the Sunseeker circuit and a small ceramic heater on a cord snaked under the slide plugged into the pedestal. I had the AC fan running to circulate the warm air and the furnace set to 60F. Bundled under my wife's quilts and slept well. I did disconnect and stow the water hose and ran the internal water system. Wife was bummed out that I had a hot shower in the rig and she did not because the bath house pipes were frozen...
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Old 09-05-2015, 07:44 PM   #18
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Low for tonight is supposed to be near 32F here in Cascade, furnace will be running I'm sure so not to worried.

Sealed belly and all doors closed.

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Old 09-05-2015, 08:03 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post

When I say I spoke with a FR tech it is a tech from Forest River the Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite division, phone number 574 642-2640. I go straight to the horses mouth when ever possible. My trailer is an 08
Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite. I know FR makes many models and probably over half of the 5ers on the road.

I have been told by some members that there is a 2" register in the sealed underbelly but according to the tech that is not the case, at least not with the Rockwood models. He says the heating pads on the tanks and the heat from the uninsulated flex duct work is enough to keep the tanks from freezing. There is also a 4" flex duct that runs across the trailer near the pump and exposed pipes. Probably supplies enough heat to the storage area but?

I plan on installing two 4" booster fans, one to the underbelly and one to blow on the pump area. Both will be on a thermostat set around 40 to 50 degrees.

To heat the trailer I plan on using a good ceramic heater set about 70' and then set the furnace thermostat to around 65' for nights that the electric heater can't keep up.

Well that teck is as wrong as can be. I have Rockwood and I have 2" duct to the belly, I also have heated tanks and my discharge lines have heat tape on them that is activated when needed. In the cold extended times I put a 1500 watt heater in the basement and run the plug to the 20 amp socket on the pedestal. I don't know who you talked to or if they changed something but this is what I have. All I do is fill my FW tank and store the hose in the belly. Never had a problem yet, but they are all 3 seasons....
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Old 09-05-2015, 09:03 PM   #20
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This is a great thread topic, and the timing is excellent since cooler weather is just around the corner.

This winter will be our first with the Silverback, and I've already been thinking about that water pump in the basement. There is a 120 volt AC receptacle right above and behind the pump. I'm thinking of mounting two incandescent light bulb sockets next to the pump and wire a switch to them and pick up power at the socket. Two 40 watt light bulbs should provide adequate heat to prevent the pump from freezing. The reason for 2 bulbs is in case one burns out during the night.

When the camper is parked at home, I keep a small ceramic heater set at 45 deg +/- centrally located in the coach. I'm in Louisiana, so we rarely see a nighttime temp below 25.

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5er, winter

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