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Old 09-06-2015, 08:41 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
Well that teck is as wrong as can be. I have Rockwood and I have 2" duct to the belly, I also have heated tanks and my discharge lines have heat tape on them that is activated when needed. In the cold extended times I put a 1500 watt heater in the basement and run the plug to the 20 amp socket on the pedestal. I don't know who you talked to or if they changed something but this is what I have. All I do is fill my FW tank and store the hose in the belly. Never had a problem yet, but they are all 3 seasons....
Maybe the 2" duct varies by model or year? I see your trailer is 4 years newer than mine, a different layout but both 32'. Just for the heck of it I am going to call them again.

By discharge lines I am assuming you mean the drain lines for the black and grey tanks? Your FR trailer is the first one I have heard of that has heat tapes factory installed. I am not sure they would be needed on the drains but don't see where they can hurt.


A few members have said they have a 2" duct, but not a register, and it is not the same. I have a 4" duct which goes from one register to the next but no register according to FR. I have seen no reason to open up the underbelly to look, in fact, see very few reasons to do so unless one of your tanks break.

Jim
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:56 AM   #22
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Our 2010 Flagstaff has Factory Heated Tanks and Discharge pipes and Elbows also! It is a anything above 32DegF for a period of time camper! These are NOT Winter units,by Winter I am saying Below 32GegF for DAYs & NIGHTs in a straight period of Time! Youroo!!
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:58 AM   #23
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My 2010 Rockwood does have a heat duck in the pass-thru....only problem was when the under-belly was installed, 2 of the ducts were torn in half....so after I replaced them, all's well. Have camped in 20 degree weather, and use an oil filled heater..works ok for me. Only problem, was leaving awning out.....pivot points froze and had to thaw 'em out to retract. Will be addressing hose to pedestal soon.....
My Rockwood has a 4" duct that goes from the drivers side for about 5' then makes a turn to the front for a couple of feet to the bedroom register. This duct is run near the bathroom water lines but not sure I want to trust itto keep the lines from freezing. Might be OK if the furnace was running. I know a heat tape or small electric heater will keep those lines and pump safe though.

As for the awning, I can see those pivots freezing. If lubed with WD40 or white lithium grease that would provably protect them.

Jim
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:04 AM   #24
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We have a Prime time Sanibel we are full timers & this trailer is rated four season. Being Canadiens it has been tested & works very well
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Old 09-06-2015, 11:34 AM   #25
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2010 Rockwood 8280 (rear kitchen) has water pump in bottom cabinet next to fridge inside. Also has dedicated 4" furnace duct into pass-thru. Has heated tanks, but not protection on dump pipes or valves.
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Old 09-06-2015, 02:45 PM   #26
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We have a Prime time Sanibel we are full timers & this trailer is rated four season. Being Canadiens it has been tested & works very well
Really! Tested where? Florida? Bring it out here where we have real winter, the fourth season, and then let me know how it works out.
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Old 09-06-2015, 07:07 PM   #27
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Maybe the 2" duct varies by model or year? I see your trailer is 4 years newer than mine, a different layout but both 32'. Just for the heck of it I am going to call them again.

By discharge lines I am assuming you mean the drain lines for the black and grey tanks? Your FR trailer is the first one I have heard of that has heat tapes factory installed. I am not sure they would be needed on the drains but don't see where they can hurt.


A few members have said they have a 2" duct, but not a register, and it is not the same. I have a 4" duct which goes from one register to the next but no register according to FR. I have seen no reason to open up the underbelly to look, in fact, see very few reasons to do so unless one of your tanks break.

Jim
I have a register in the sidewall of the belly that is connected to a 2" duct. Also the heat tape is located at the three vales, so they will not freeze. FR doesn't do anything the same. They come on when I put the tank heaters on.You can even see the tape wrapped on my gray water from the galley the rest are in the belly..
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Old 09-06-2015, 08:58 PM   #28
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We have a Prime time Sanibel we are full timers & this trailer is rated four season. Being Canadiens it has been tested & works very well
We will probably Hear more of this with the Global Warming! Youroo!!
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:16 PM   #29
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Will be interesting to hear about those going to Alaska and how they adapt to unknown conditions....power/cold/tires/fuel.......money spent in prep, and trip.
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Old 09-06-2015, 09:57 PM   #30
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I have FR Wolf Pack I spent the winter 5200' in Philipsburg, MT. two years ago(I won't do it again if I can help it) I found that anything under 22 deg. you are going to lose your water( I don't know if my tanks are heated or not) at 36" below you will have ice in the sink with the heater running full bore. The trailer is good to about 20-22 deg. I go south now to AZ.
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Old 09-06-2015, 10:36 PM   #31
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I have FR Wolf Pack I spent the winter 5200' in Philipsburg, MT. two years ago(I won't do it again if I can help it) I found that anything under 22 deg. you are going to lose your water( I don't know if my tanks are heated or not) at 36" below you will have ice in the sink with the heater running full bore. The trailer is good to about 20-22 deg. I go south now to AZ.
What were you think'n?
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Old 09-07-2015, 03:54 AM   #32
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I have FR Wolf Pack I spent the winter 5200' in Philipsburg, MT. two years ago(I won't do it again if I can help it) I found that anything under 22 deg. you are going to lose your water( I don't know if my tanks are heated or not) at 36" below you will have ice in the sink with the heater running full bore. The trailer is good to about 20-22 deg. I go south now to AZ.
Your a smart man, FR doesn't make a true 4 season trailer nor will they ever. If someone is looking for a 4 season trailer they better start looking at Arctic Fox or something. 2"walls can't hold enough installation. If you look at the spec sheets and construction it's plain to see why. They have tried that spray on foam that just falls off and half the water pipes where missed along the edge. At least of the one I saw.....
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:01 AM   #33
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I have a register in the sidewall of the belly that is connected to a 2" duct. Also the heat tape is located at the three vales, so they will not freeze. FR doesn't do anything the same. They come on when I put the tank heaters on.You can even see the tape wrapped on my gray water from the galley the rest are in the belly..
I think you are right about FR not doing anything the same! Seems like no two trailers leave there equipped the same, LO! The heat tape around the valves might be a good idea even though they shouldn't freeze because water would only be there when we are empting a tank. The only one I think I might need is on the gallery drain line. If most of the drain is in the underbelly I might not need it there, got to look at it.

Jim
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:16 AM   #34
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2010 Rockwood 8280 (rear kitchen) has water pump in bottom cabinet next to fridge inside. Also has dedicated 4" furnace duct into pass-thru. Has heated tanks, but not protection on dump pipes or valves.
I wish my pump was inside of a cabinet like yours. Mine is located in the pass thru storage area. The piping comes straight up from the FW tank to the pump, then up next to the bedroom floor. Then goes across to the bathroom sink and outside shower. From the sink it goes towards the back into the shower stall.

Don't think a tape is really needed on the valves but might be nice on the drain pipe, depending on how much of it is exposed.

Jim
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:22 AM   #35
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Will be interesting to hear about those going to Alaska and how they adapt to unknown conditions....power/cold/tires/fuel.......money spent in prep, and trip.
I agree, it would be interesting. Want to know what works and what doesn't.

Jim
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:19 PM   #36
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What were you think'n?
My truck kept breaking down and left me stranded in Philipsburg, MT. I was trying to go south. Have a newer truck now. OH P.S. My pump did freeze up but it did not hurt it, it broke the water filter, and my toilet valve.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:26 PM   #37
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Like going to bed and gett'n up in morn to find it snowed during night....not like that makes noise! I had a regulator go bad that night....had to warm up in truck....lucky nothing but me froze.
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Old 09-07-2015, 05:55 PM   #38
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Bring it out here where we have real winter, the fourth season, and then let me know how it works out.
Fourth season??? Can't be! There's only two seasons on the prairies!
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:25 PM   #39
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I wish my pump was inside of a cabinet like yours. Mine is located in the pass thru storage area. The piping comes straight up from the FW tank to the pump, then up next to the bedroom floor. Then goes across to the bathroom sink and outside shower. From the sink it goes towards the back into the shower stall.

Don't think a tape is really needed on the valves but might be nice on the drain pipe, depending on how much of it is exposed.

Jim
The only thing that keeps the water staying in is the valve itself, so water could freeze the valve being it having constant water from gray or black against it. I would think it is standard on any heated tank option. But you know FR. NEVER the same....
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Old 09-07-2015, 07:39 PM   #40
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Noth'n say'n the pump has to stay there.
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