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Old 12-17-2015, 10:15 AM   #31
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The 2015 F150 built-in receiver has a max tongue weight rating of 1220 lbs w/WDH according to the F150 towing guide. There is a good chance you will be over this with the larger trailer.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf
The dry weights of the campers are 700 pounds different- assuming the earlier poster was correct. Therefore, loaded weight should only be 700 pounds different. ~105 lbs TW difference, max. And you do realize that the 1220 number is derived from 10% of the max tow rating of 12,200, right??? The stress placed on that hitch is very dynamic and changes constantly as you travel. If it breaks at 1325, it was going to break at 1220 in a few minutes.... Yet, with all of this said, with proper loading, even if loaded to max GVWR of 9800 (which he almost certainly won't be) it's not a problem to keep under a 1220 TW.

Edit: Assuming Dodge Guy is correct and the 9800 TT has a dry weight of ~6800, you can figure the yellow sticker is likely around ~7200. Add 1000 pounds of gear and you are at 8200. TW should be between 820 and 1230. Ideal around 1025- easy to stay under rating.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:20 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by keith_h View Post
The 2015 F150 built-in receiver has a max tongue weight rating of 1220 lbs w/WDH according to the F150 towing guide. There is a good chance you will be over this with the larger trailer.

http://www.ford.com/resources/ford/g...0_r1_Jan12.pdf
Good point. I delayed picking up my TT (6100 EW and advertised 1,100 hitch weight) until I installed a heavy duty Curt Class 5 XD hitch (16,000 pul and 1,600 weight). Less than $200 and money well spent.

Also, the OP might consider a power tongue jack from the git go. I unhooked the trailer one time and immediately went to Amazon to get a power unit.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:24 AM   #33
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Good point. I delayed picking up my TT (6100 EW and advertised 1,100 hitch weight) until I installed a heavy duty Curt Class 5 XD hitch (16,000 pul and 1,600 weight). Less than $200 and money well spent.

Also, the OP might consider a power tongue jack from the git go. I unhooked the trailer one time and immediately went to Amazon to get a power unit.
No need for a new hitch on the F150- doubt you can even get one. But I concur with the power tongue jack comment. I used to make fun of the "wussies" that need a power tongue jack. Now I make fun of the guys that have sweat pouring off of them after running the jack down manually. Barker is the only way to go on the power tongue jack, IMHO.
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Old 12-17-2015, 10:32 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by dustman_stx View Post
The dry weights of the campers are 700 pounds different- assuming the earlier poster was correct. Therefore, loaded weight should only be 700 pounds different. ~105 lbs TW difference, max. And you do realize that the 1220 number is derived from 10% of the max tow rating of 12,200, right??? The stress placed on that hitch is very dynamic and changes constantly as you travel. If it breaks at 1325, it was going to break at 1220 in a few minutes.... Yet, with all of this said, with proper loading, even if loaded to max GVWR of 9800 (which he almost certainly won't be) it's not a problem to keep under a 1220 TW.

Edit: Assuming Dodge Guy is correct and the 9800 TT has a dry weight of ~6800, you can figure the yellow sticker is likely around ~7200. Add 1000 pounds of gear and you are at 8200. TW should be between 820 and 1230. Ideal around 1025- easy to stay under rating.
I agree the hitch will handle more than the manufacturers rating but I'm of the school you don't exceed what the mfg specifies. Mostly it has to do with liability or warranty issues but there are also the longer term wear & tear factors that come into play.

As far as staying under most folks don't pay much attention to what weights they have or how they are distributed unless they perceive a problem while driving. The typical person just throws their stuff in and goes. I don't know how the OP packs but I've seen a tendency for people to load their TT's the max more often than packing the minimal needed.
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Old 12-17-2015, 11:38 AM   #35
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I agree the hitch will handle more than the manufacturers rating but I'm of the school you don't exceed what the mfg specifies. Mostly it has to do with liability or warranty issues but there are also the longer term wear & tear factors that come into play.

As far as staying under most folks don't pay much attention to what weights they have or how they are distributed unless they perceive a problem while driving. The typical person just throws their stuff in and goes. I don't know how the OP packs but I've seen a tendency for people to load their TT's the max more often than packing the minimal needed.
The OP would have to load around 2500lbs of stuff into the 9800 GVWR trailer to get to max. That's very unlikely. If they load each of the 2 trailers in question the same, which we have no reason to believe they wouldn't, everything I've stated is accurate.

Edit: In other words, if the OP is overloaded with the "lighter" one he'll likely be overloaded with the "heavier" one. I don't think he'll be over on anything other than possibly payload of the truck depending upon how many people he hauls and how much stuff he loads in the bed, regardless.
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Old 12-17-2015, 01:58 PM   #36
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GVWR has nothing to do with trailer weight it stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and never changes. The two key words are "Vehicle" and "RATING". IE MOST newer 250/2500 have a GVWR of 10,000 lbs and that weight RATING is set by the manufacture of the truck and does not change.
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Old 12-17-2015, 02:30 PM   #37
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GVWR has nothing to do with trailer weight it stands for Gross Vehicle Weight Rating and never changes. The two key words are "Vehicle" and "RATING". IE MOST newer 250/2500 have a GVWR of 10,000 lbs and that weight RATING is set by the manufacture of the truck and does not change.
Not sure what your point is??? Trailers have a GVWR also. And a CCC. And a NVWR, commonly referred to as the "yellow sticker" weight. And a "dry weight", which is the bare bones model weight.
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Old 12-17-2015, 07:26 PM   #38
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Thanks. This is all very helpful. The deal on the light weight trailer fell through. We are heading out this weekend to look at several models.
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Old 12-19-2015, 07:06 AM   #39
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The op is comparing GROSS trailer weights. If they are loading their trailer heavier that that weight they have other issues to deal with.
I will agree with other posters in the fact that you need to look at your trucks combined gross vehicle weight. Never ever go over that. My Ram's tow rating includes 800 lbs (do not have math in front of me at moment but I did it when bought new trailer a month ago) for people and cargo. I go through that 800 lbs pretty fast with 4 people and my tools and firewood so I loss some towing weight.

There are several other threads on here about TV and TT weights. What it boils down to is can your TV stop your TT and do you feel safe driving it. People who are a lot smarter than me came up with vehicle weight and tow ratings so I follow their advice more than I would anyone on a forum, my advice included.
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Old 12-19-2015, 09:50 AM   #40
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My advice would be to get the one you like best keeping in mind a 250 or 2500 TV may be in your future. Either one, in my opinion, puts the truck too close to it's limits to be comfortable. I know people that pull over their weight ratings and don't seem to mind at all but I like a larger margin.
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