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Old 02-14-2011, 11:20 AM   #11
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I have pulled 2 5ers thousands of miles using the bumper connection with no problems. Factory length of trailer cord on both units allowed for the sharpest of turns, no problem. I would rather bend over and conect at bumper that reach into bed and plug in there. Just MHO.
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Old 02-14-2011, 12:58 PM   #12
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My truck was wired for a bed mount but decided not to use it. I just run the wire over the tail gate to the rear plug. This wire is a reminder to me that I have to lower that tail gate before I pull out. I don't really want that to happy so it just helps me to remember.
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Old 02-14-2011, 03:29 PM   #13
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Thank you for all of your helpful replies! I have ordered a T-connector harness, but will not install right away. I will be driving to Missouri from Denver to pick up the trailer and if when I get there I find out that the cord is long enough to plug into the existing bumper plug I will do that. If not, then I will have to temporarily install the T harness just to get the trailer home.
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Old 02-14-2011, 07:58 PM   #14
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Now that's a great way to do it. Smart feller there!
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Old 02-19-2011, 01:37 PM   #15
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If you go the bumper mount, make sure the cable is long enough for sharp turns and does not rub the ground when straight. Mount on the inside of the bed near the tail gate reduces the required length of the cable. This is not something to shortcut since your trailer brakes are apart of the cable. I like Wingrider, have a newer truck with tow package and it is easy to wire to truck bed.
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Old 02-19-2011, 03:23 PM   #16
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I installed another plug into the bed. Mine would reach the bumper but I'm just "A.R" like that I guess. Bought a prewired 7 pin with a flat 4 already installed. Mounted the plug on the L bracket under the bed rail to keep dry and ran the wires throught a hole in the side of the stake hole. Plugged the 4 pin in to the 4
pin stuffed behind the bumper then spliced the other wires into the 7 pin on the bumper using weather proof connectors
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