Do you use anything under your Lippert Auto Levelers?

[Arctic Wolf]

In my driveway I put the feet all the way down before leveling. Last night I was afraid if it settled into the dirt that I wouldn't be able to lift it high enough to get hooked up again. Now that I think about it... I made the possible problem worse, I think it might be best to fully extend the foot and then level up.

[doc73]

I am sure we will both be tinkering with it as we figure things out.

I had my TT settle one time and it was interesting trying to get hooked up to the truck using blocks and the step bumper to drop the foot..

[djeirlessr]

Occasionally my wheels on one side would come off the ground on our FW. I use to lower the inner jacks about 4” all around before I lower the front. After a few times my wheels came off the ground I wondered what would happen if I didn’t lower any inner jacks.

The front of my FW will lift off the hitch with no problem. I put a 4x4 block of wood under the rear leveling jacks. I pull my truck away and push auto level. The wheels don’t come off the ground when level. Sometimes I need to an additional 2x6 on the rear jacks. I’m still learning.

[Wobbles]

Doc, I chock my 5er tires.
My second un-hitch experience made me realize I forgot one of the instructions I was given. When I raise the 5er, I watch where the pinbox rests on the hitch plate. I look for a slight clearance to tell me that the weight is off the hitch and then I get no movement from the truck or trailer.

My goof was that that I did not pay attention and the 5er was lifting the hitch. When I released the jaws the truck moved about an inch. After a small heart attack, I now watch for that.

Good luck.

[gmann32]

Yes I cut a 2x4 into 10” pieces and screwed them togeather.
Ended up being 10 “x10” 2 1/2” high! Put a rope on them to retrieve them and never have jacks run out of stroke!

[CaptnJohn]

I have 6 pieces of 2x8X10" that 1/2 plywood is screwed to, curtails splitting. After chocking and unhitching a piece goes under each foot. 6" - 8" from landing gear to board. Check the other 4 feet to make certain they have enough stroke or leggo added as needed. Remember to pull truck forward as auto level can begin by dropping the nose. The boards help keep the feet clean and from sinking in soft sites.

[doc73]

Originally Posted by CaptnJohn

I have 6 pieces of 2x8X10" that 1/2 plywood is screwed to, curtails splitting. After chocking and unhitching a piece goes under each foot. 6" - 8" from landing gear to board. Check the other 4 feet to make certain they have enough stroke or leggo added as needed. Remember to pull truck forward as auto level can begin by dropping the nose. The boards help keep the feet clean and from sinking in soft sites.

I did get the truck out.. That would have stunk getting the truck stuck.

[jrowe0521]

i built 4 crib blocks from treated 2x6s. 12x12x6. these just fit under the jacks so they don't have to travel far and give support on soft ground. this way jacks are not extended so far and might be more steady. well they do nothing for MH wiggle. the jacks need to be rigidly connected to each other. i haven't tried anything yet. trailers sometime use cross braces from the top of one to the bottom of other once down.

[DaveandSue]

On ours I only let the legs drop maybe 8",the drop the rest of the way with the jacks.I don't put any thing under the front jacks,but do carry 6x6 blocks for the other 4 jacks. Everyone is right it's nice to push a button and let the 5er do it's thing while I finish hooking up. As far as the wheels in the air,be careful when you let the jacks up. Sometimes my spring shackles will be at the wrong angle.Will cause a real loud bang when they pop back in place.

[LannyCox]

I went to Home Depot and bought an 8 foot 2 x 12 for $8. The cut it into four 2 x 12 blocks for me to use under my leveling jacks. They seem to work really well.

[phillyg]

Have had to use Lynx blocks a few times in very uneven sites, but mostly don't use anything.

[LannyCox]

Don't use anything under the wooden blocks - but, have only needed to use them once.

[Jakieboy]

We use the Camping World leveling blocks under each of our six leveling hydraulic rams always. Depending on how level our camp site is, we may use 2 or 3 or more leveling blocks under each ram. This does a couple of things: (1) it limits the amount of travel that each leveling ram must extend, and (2) it allows you to treat each leveling block with anti-ant chemical without having to spray each ram. Limiting the extension of each leveling ram makes for a more stable camp set-up.

[CHICKDOE]

one other thought. I have been to a rv park that required that you place something (blocks, pads) under your legs to spread the load over a larger area and not have them sink into the asphalt surface. asphalt in Arizona in the summer gets hot and pliable.

[B and B]

I use these. I have 6 16 inch and 2 10 inch. In all the site I have been in Provincial Parks never run out of stroke.



At home in our HOA storage lot I made 6 16 by 16 wood block laminated out of pressure treated wood. In winter i stack several and the level up cylinders at the front are completely retracted.

You do not want to expose the cylinder to air all winter, particularly where there is salt spray in the air.

[wtblakeman]

I bought a 2x8 and cut it into square pieces and bolted 4 of them together. I put them under the jacks regardless of how level the sight is. The farther out you run those jack, the more unstable your camper is.

[DKRITTER]

I’ve never liked the tires off the ground myself plus I’ve found my “auto level” likes being pretty close to start with.
When we pull the 5’r into a spot we are going to stay in for more than 1 night I check the control pad to see how level it is L/R and my pads = 1/2 of a degree so if needed I just put what ever is needed and pull that trailer up on them. If it’s more than 2 pads I match that on the 3 jacks on the same side. The trailer seems to like doing it that way.

For pads we went through the lego blocks in our TT’s and they broke down due to the elements. I was at Tractor Supply one day and bought a 4’X6’X3/4” rubber horse stall mat. I took it home and with a utility knife and straight edge cut it into 1’ squares. A lot cheaper than lego’s and they have lasted for years with almost no sight of wear.

[grayfox]

Originally Posted by DKRITTER

I’ve never liked the tires off the ground myself plus I’ve found my “auto level” likes being pretty close to start with.
When we pull the 5’r into a spot we are going to stay in for more than 1 night I check the control pad to see how level it is L/R and my pads = 1/2 of a degree so if needed I just put what ever is needed and pull that trailer up on them. If it’s more than 2 pads I match that on the 3 jacks on the same side. The trailer seems to like doing it that way.

For pads we went through the lego blocks in our TT’s and they broke down due to the elements. I was at Tractor Supply one day and bought a 4’X6’X3/4” rubber horse stall mat. I took it home and with a utility knife and straight edge cut it into 1’ squares. A lot cheaper than lego’s and they have lasted for years with almost no sight of wear.

Check your mfgrs, manual wheels off the ground are a big NO NO.

[Arctic Wolf]

Originally Posted by grayfox

Check your mfgrs, manual wheels off the ground are a big NO NO.

So... We have to level the camper before using the automatic leveling system?
That sounds a lot like my wife washing the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher

[grayfox]

Originally Posted by Arctic Wolf

So... We have to level the camper before using the automatic leveling system?
That sounds a lot like my wife washing the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher

Suppose that's one way of looking at it.