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Old 11-05-2017, 09:13 PM   #41
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I guess I'll be buying some Legos... The trailer felt a little shaky this weekend with the left side tires off the ground... About the same as my pop up does with tires on the ground and stabilizers down.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:37 PM   #42
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So... We have to level the camper before using the automatic leveling system?
That sounds a lot like my wife washing the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher
Not really but we do rinse the dishes before we put them in the dishwasher.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:50 PM   #43
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When we first started using the 6point level up system, we worried if the spot was too unlevel, if the tires on one side were off the ground. Now, six years later, we don't worry about any of it. We can eyeball the spot and the level indicators and tell how many lynx blocks we will need on the low spots for unlevel sites. And when boondocking, it's odd to not have one sides tires off the ground. Auto level works fantastic, even on very unlevel sites. You just have to get used to using it and stop thinking like you did before level up
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:04 AM   #44
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So... We have to level the camper before using the automatic leveling system?
That sounds a lot like my wife washing the dishes before putting them in the dishwasher
No,,, I just look for very low spots while putting blocks down to keep the feet clean.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:10 AM   #45
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Where are y'all camping? I have only had my tires come off the ground one time in about 100 trips, and that was about an inch.

I made 2X8 blocks with rope handles. It was DW's job to put them down first. They take up more room than I'm happy with, so I got some snappads. Now I need to install them.
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Old 11-06-2017, 09:11 AM   #46
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My one tire is up about an inch
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Old 11-06-2017, 06:12 PM   #47
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We just set up at NASCAR Phoenix. Very unlevel side to side. Tires about 3" off of ground. No sweat. We thought to try the boards, but not enough as you can see. Time for a beer!
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:04 PM   #48
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I cut 2x12 into 12-inch squares and put metal handles on one edge them painted them all black. Works great and I already had the lumber.
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:42 PM   #49
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I have to get used to being so easy to get setup.. LOL

I will say, and this is probably me needing to get used to the 5er. I dropped the front feet, went to release the jaws and the handle was a bit tight. I gave it a pull and as the handle went foreward (in my hand) the jaws released and the trailer slid back a bit. Now I always keep the wheels chocked so it was not going anywhere. But I guess there was a bit of pressure on the jaws (since I was pulling it forward for the last 7 hours afterall). I guess I will need to maybe roll back a bit to relieve pressure from the jaws? Or is this just normal?
Yep, that hard to release jaw is the clue. What I do is park, put chocks "behind" 5er tires, get back in truck and reverse back into the chocks good, set parking brake good before putting trans in park then get out and chock front of tires good. This should take the pressure off the hitch jaws because your pin should be against the front of the hitch now.

Also yep to the Lego blocks. Kept mine from the TT. Even though it might not be strictly necessary I still keep some 2x8s to put under low side tires on a really unlevel site and then Legos under jacks on that side. The less stroke you have out on the jacks makes it feel more secure.

On a a site that is higher in front than back run your front jacks down a few inches, maybe even quite a few inches if really high in front, before you pull the handle and drop the pads. If not, the front won't be able to lower enough to level out. They don't tell you about that when you pick it up at the dealer.
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Old 11-10-2017, 07:54 PM   #50
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I will try that with backing into the chocks, thanks.
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Old 11-12-2017, 09:39 PM   #51
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I’ve never liked the tires off the ground myself plus I’ve found my “auto level” likes being pretty close to start with.
When we pull the 5’r into a spot we are going to stay in for more than 1 night I check the control pad to see how level it is L/R and my pads = 1/2 of a degree so if needed I just put what ever is needed and pull that trailer up on them. If it’s more than 2 pads I match that on the 3 jacks on the same side. The trailer seems to like doing it that way.

For pads we went through the lego blocks in our TT’s and they broke down due to the elements. I was at Tractor Supply one day and bought a 4’X6’X3/4” rubber horse stall mat. I took it home and with a utility knife and straight edge cut it into 1’ squares. A lot cheaper than lego’s and they have lasted for years with almost no sight of wear.
My sister and her husband did the same thing. Then I stole theirs! They work really well. I also have legos from my brother if I need them.
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Old 05-20-2018, 06:26 PM   #52
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I had an issue where the front lipperts ran out of stroke due that the back end was so much lower. Just had to live with it.
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:04 PM   #53
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I had an issue where the front lipperts ran out of stroke due that the back end was so much lower. Just had to live with it.
I keep 2 sets of the yellow legos in the 5er for that very reason. Rarely need them, but great when you do.
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Old 05-23-2018, 09:53 AM   #54
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I've been using the Andersen Jack Blocks for over a year and love them. Of course they now have added magnets that make them so much easier to center on the pad. They really help with the motion in the fifth wheel too since I'm not stroked out as far.
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Old 05-28-2018, 08:19 PM   #55
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RV Snap Pads and Camco Yellow Blocks under all 6 legs
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:04 PM   #56
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All these comments seem to be from people with 5ers. I have a Winnebago Class A - any comments from Class A owners? LGC
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Old 05-28-2018, 10:22 PM   #57
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I got two sets of these - work great.

https://www.amazon.com/Quality-Plast...s=rv+jack+pads
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