Dry weight

[jeffandrews55]

Does the manufacturer's dry weight posted on decal include things like refrigerator, propane tanks, batteries...?

[Elkhounds]

My understanding is that was the weight it was when it left the factory. So tanks are not full but I believe they are in the trailer. Also I believe the batteries are installed at the factory as well.

[rockfordroo]

Dry weights are for suckers; the manufacturers and dealers just use it to sell ignorant people more camper than they should be buying for their tow vehicle size. Don't even think about dry weights. The camper will never weigh that number ever again. Use GVWR. If you can handle the GVWR, you'll always be OK. You can find the GVWR on the sticker on the left front end of the TT. See mine below.

[Restcure]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Dry weights are for suckers; the manufacturers and dealers just use it to sell ignorant people more camper than they should be buying for their tow vehicle size. Don't even think about dry weights. The camper will never weigh that number ever again. Use GVWR. If you can handle the GVWR, you'll always be OK. You can find the GVWR on the sticker on the left front end of the TT. See mine below.

Agreed. The only way to REALLY know how much your trailer weighs is to weigh it yourself.

Remember that most vehicles will run out of cargo carry capacity before they run out of tow rating. A tongue weight of 12-15% must be allowed for, PLUS the weight of the occupants and cargo in the tow vehicle.

[jeffandrews55]

I hear a lot about weighing your trailer yourself, which I think is a great idea. How do I go about this?

[bob caldwell]

Find a truck stop....

[SidecarFlip]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Dry weights are for suckers; the manufacturers and dealers just use it to sell ignorant people more camper than they should be buying for their tow vehicle size. Don't even think about dry weights. The camper will never weigh that number ever again. Use GVWR. If you can handle the GVWR, you'll always be OK. You can find the GVWR on the sticker on the left front end of the TT. See mine below.

EXACTLY. Dry weight is the weight of a build without any options, basic build, no batteries or propane fill, NO OPTIONS

and... Batteries are a dealer installed item, not factory installed.

I know, I'm personal friends with 2 RV transporters who make good money delivering RV's all over the country to dealers.. I'd do it myself but I have enough on my plate with farming and doing 'honey do' stuff around the farm.

Nice retirement job for someone who has nothing to do and wants a good income. Of course there is an investment involved... A late model 1 ton DRW pickup and the necessary hitches installed (fifth wheel and Class 5 receiver)

Always keep in mind that your 'New' RV has been pulled down the road by a transport contractor and... The farther away from the factory the selling dealer is, the farther your 'new' Rv has been towed, so things like tires and brakes and suspension components are not 'new', they have been used.

One reason why I bought my RV from a dealer close to the factory, mine was a lot 'newer, than say getting it from a dealer a thousand miles from the builder. In my case, the dealer was 15 miles from the factory.

That don't apply too all RV's. The smaller TT's, A frames, TC's and (I think) even the smaller 5er's are trailered in multiple units on specially built transport trailers, but, the bigger 5er's and pull behind's are pulled by the transporter, down the highway to the dealer's lot.

Si it may be 'new' inside but outside, it's not new, it's used and maybe somewhat abused. They guys I know are paid mileage so they want to 'get it there' ASAP and get back for another pull. They run hard and fast. How it works, unlike a new car, where all cars are delivered in quantity on a car hauler. The only mileage accumulation a car or pickup truck gets is the distance from the exit of the assembly line to the holding lot and then either on a car hauler trailer or loaded on rail to another marshaling area and then on a transporter, typically 15 miles or lees total until it's sitting on the dealers lot.

Not so with an RV. That RV you bought may have a few thousand miles on it (depending on where the dealer is in relationship to the factory).. Ever wonder why no RV has a 'Hubometer' on it? A hubometer records mileage. If you knew the actual mileage on the running gear, you might not buy it...

New, might not really be new on the running gear.... Things to ponder.,

[Elkhounds]

To get your weights go to a truck stop that has a CAT Scale. Will cost you a little but should be under $20 total. I like to get 2 weights.

First truck loaded for travel without the trailer. Get on the scale so that you have front axles on on pad and rear on another. That will give you the weights on each axle.

Second I hook up the trailer and go to the same spot on the scale. This will give me the axle weights with the trailer hooked up and the trailer tires should be on a different pad. That will give you the weight of the trailer HOOKED UP.

Now you can take the first weight and subtract that from the weight of the truck when hooked up (front and rear axle weights) to get how much weight the trailer added to the tow vehicle. That is your tongue weight. You can add that to what the trailer weight was in the second weight you got and get what the total trailer weights when not hooked up.

Hope that makes some sense.

[B and B]

The scaled weight leaving the Factory is on the trailer. Whatever is it includes like share tire, extra AC unit, upgraded TV or Mattress. I use the GVWR as my guide for Tow Vehicle choice.

[jeffandrews55]

Originally Posted by Elkhounds

To get your weights go to a truck stop that has a CAT Scale. Will cost you a little but should be under $20 total. I like to get 2 weights.

First truck loaded for travel without the trailer. Get on the scale so that you have front axles on on pad and rear on another. That will give you the weights on each axle.

Second I hook up the trailer and go to the same spot on the scale. This will give me the axle weights with the trailer hooked up and the trailer tires should be on a different pad. That will give you the weight of the trailer HOOKED UP.

Now you can take the first weight and subtract that from the weight of the truck when hooked up (front and rear axle weights) to get how much weight the trailer added to the tow vehicle. That is your tongue weight. You can add that to what the trailer weight was in the second weight you got and get what the total trailer weights when not hooked up.

Hope that makes some sense.

Thanks! Excellent info.

[Oaklevel]

Originally Posted by rockfordroo

Dry weights are for suckers; the manufacturers and dealers just use it to sell ignorant people more camper than they should be buying for their tow vehicle size. Don't even think about dry weights. The camper will never weigh that number ever again. Use GVWR. If you can handle the GVWR, you'll always be OK. You can find the GVWR on the sticker on the left front end of the TT. See mine below.

X100

Our example is extreme as the trailer is a TH. But its dry weight was 9600 the Gross weight for the trailer is 14500 ....... the actual weight is close to 13800. I would have been in deep trouble if I had just gone by the dry weight.

How to weigh at a scale click here and scroll down:

https://catscale.com/how-to-weigh/