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07-20-2013, 07:09 AM
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#21
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JFM-jr
How about manually pulling the emergency disconnect while hitching? Brakes will lock and tug test could be performed as well and if you forget the put the E brake pin back in youll be reminded in a hurry when the camper dont move and nothing gets harmed in that process. Just a thought
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Pulling the emergency brake cable energizes the brakes, but the wheels have to turn a little to actually be applied. Better to just keep the wheel chocks in place to do the pull test. I leave my Bal X Chocks in place until the last walk around before leaving.
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07-25-2013, 03:55 PM
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#22
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Member
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Easton, MD
Posts: 64
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The dealer told me to never use the emergency disconnect for this purpose. He said it burns something out that is rather expensive. He recommended the chocks and using the brake switch.
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2013 Ford F-350, FX4 ,Long Bed, 6.7 Diesel, 11500# GVW package, camper package, plow package, Electronic locking 3.73 rear end.
Husky 16K slider hitch.
New Trailer 2013 Wildcat 344QB Touring Edition with angled master bed.
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07-25-2013, 04:20 PM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 266
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Normally when I hitch, all of the cable and cord is tucked up inside the pinbox. Having it out worries me that I may pinch one or the other between the hitch and pin plates if I have to pull forward and back up again. Honestly, X-chocks would be the best bet here. And besides, if you do move the rig more than a couple of inches during hookup, you may have it to low.
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07-25-2013, 04:43 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Virginia
Posts: 9,740
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I wish I had a camera with me to have taken a picture when we were at the beach last week... I saw a pickup with a fifth wheel hitch in the bed .....The top of bed was so torn up from not checking after hitching & dropping fifth wheels on it........... The best part...........It had a RV dealership's name painted all over it....... So much for practicing what you preach.... Great advertising..
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2005 Dodge 3500 Cummins
2017 Wildwood Lodge 4092 BFL
1966 Mustang GT
1986 Mustang SVO
Lillie Spoiled Rotten Boxer Mix
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07-25-2013, 06:45 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Lynchburg, VA
Posts: 393
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always chocked
I'm always chocked unless rolling - there's too much room for error otherwise. I plug up prior to retracting landing gear because I get just a little more power and faster operation. I have a noticeable difference in landing gear speed.
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2011 Sabre Silhouette 260BHS
2017 F-350 XLT CC DRW 6.7L
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08-01-2013, 04:11 PM
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#26
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Topeka Ks
Posts: 54
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Have never
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08-01-2013, 04:16 PM
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#27
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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If it's unhooked, both wheels are chocked. At home against special wooden blocks, in a campground there are 2 Bal XChocks in place and tightened. Extremely cheap insurance.
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08-01-2013, 04:16 PM
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#28
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Topeka Ks
Posts: 54
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Have never used brakes, have good set of chocks And never had any issues. Also have B & W hitch do always know that I am connected. Don't connect brake away until I put pin in locking arm. Have connected and tried to drive away with legs down and tail gate down. That leaves a mark
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08-02-2013, 07:04 PM
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#29
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Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Posts: 54
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Our process:
- Trailer wheels chocked front and rear. Always.
- Rear legs raised all the way up.
- x-chocks removed (X-chocks say not to adjust trailer height once tight, so we have them out by this point).
- Hitch unlocked, tailgate down.
- Trailer left plugged in to shore power.
- Boy (or wife) sets front height
- I back in & connect.
- Latch hitch.
- Raise tailgate.
- Front wheel chocks usually loose by now so grab and stow those & rear ones too tight to remove.
- Boy finishes retracting landing legs.
- We leave landing legs 3-4" off the ground.
- Stow the large blocks we keep for under landing leg pads.
- Disconnect shore power and stow cord.
- Connect truck power to trailer.
- Get in truck, set trailer brakes manually and pull forward until they engage ("tug-test" ensures everything connected).
- Rear chocks now loose, grab and stow them.
- Raise front landing legs all the way up.
- Wife walks around to lock all storage doors and check campsite for wrenches, water pressure regulators, doormats, etc - all stuff we've left behind at times.
- Pull out.
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08-20-2013, 12:09 PM
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#30
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Junior Member
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Boyink
Our process:
- Trailer wheels chocked front and rear. Always.
- Rear legs raised all the way up.
- x-chocks removed (X-chocks say not to adjust trailer height once tight, so we have them out by this point).
- Hitch unlocked, tailgate down.
- Trailer left plugged in to shore power.
- Boy (or wife) sets front height
- I back in & connect.
- Latch hitch.
- Raise tailgate.
- Front wheel chocks usually loose by now so grab and stow those & rear ones too tight to remove.
- Boy finishes retracting landing legs.
- We leave landing legs 3-4" off the ground.
- Stow the large blocks we keep for under landing leg pads.
- Disconnect shore power and stow cord.
- Connect truck power to trailer.
- Get in truck, set trailer brakes manually and pull forward until they engage ("tug-test" ensures everything connected).
- Rear chocks now loose, grab and stow them.
- Raise front landing legs all the way up.
- Wife walks around to lock all storage doors and check campsite for wrenches, water pressure regulators, doormats, etc - all stuff we've left behind at times.
- Pull out.
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Just a thought, if you hook correctly height wise, eg: slightly low on trailer so that when it contacts hitch it will pick up the landing gear off the ground. In your case, if you then pull landing gear up three or four inches before your tug test, you risk dropping the trailer on your bedsides of your truck.
Hitch low, you will never have a high hitch problem, landing gear are off the ground so you can safetly tug test, and "IF" you had a hitch failure, your trailer would land on its legs, not the truck box.
Just a consideration from a transport safety and compliance guy.
Your mileage may vary.
Lost
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08-20-2013, 01:03 PM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 266
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Also, leave the tailgate down for the tug test. You don't want the back of your pinbox taking it off if the tug test fails. Then again, if you have a Lippert frame, the tailgate may damage the fifth frame.
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