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Old 08-25-2018, 10:43 PM   #1
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Glad For Nail In Tire...

A few months ago I replaced the Castle Rocks on our new Windjammer with Goodyear Endurance, and have enjoyed the peace of mind. After our last trip, I noticed that the right rear tire was going low, and found that it had a nail in the tread.

Today, I pulled the wheel off to get the tire fixed and found that the bracket that bolted the rear axle to the frame had pulled down, and was no longer butted up against the frame. The issue is on both side of the rear axle. Now, I will need to pull both tires off each side and make sure that both axle brackets are tight against the frame and that the bolts are properly torqued.

I would have not noticed this issue if my tire had not picked up a nail...
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:25 PM   #2
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is that a slotted hole for the bolt to go thru?

because it is slotted it allowed the axle bracket to slide down?

It looks like only two bolts hold it in place... correct?
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Old 08-25-2018, 11:58 PM   #3
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is that a slotted hole for the bolt to go thru?

because it is slotted it allowed the axle bracket to slide down?

It looks like only two bolts hold it in place... correct?

Yes, slotted hole, and only two bolts. No bolts holding the top of the bracket tight against the bottom of the frame... Wish I knew how to weld...
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Old 08-26-2018, 12:33 AM   #4
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From the picture it looks like the bracket has slipped and just needs to be adjusted. You might want to check the other side to see if it is welded or not. You might be able to download the axle manufacturer's information or check with an axle repair shop that works on rv's.
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Old 08-26-2018, 06:40 AM   #5
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If you weld it in then you may damage the axle and/or make it harder to replace it if something goes wrong.
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Old 08-26-2018, 06:58 AM   #6
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STOP!! Do Not Weld! Do a Search at top right for "Old Coot" send him a PM in regards to your axle brackets! He posted a very informative picture related Mod for "Drilling and Bolting these "Torque Axles to the Frame "! Please Don't Weld! Youroo! !
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:24 AM   #7
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STOP!! Do Not Weld! Do a Search at top right for "Old Coot" send him a PM in regards to your axle brackets! He posted a very informative picture related Mod for "Drilling and Bolting these "Torque Axles to the Frame "! Please Don't Weld! Youroo! !
Thanks, not going to weld. I am going to put the frame of the trailer on jack stands, one side at a time, and loosen the bolts and use my bottle jack to lift the axle bracket back tight against the frame. I will then torque the bolts to Dexter's spec of 155 ft-lbs. I'll check all the bolts and verify they are torqued properly.

I'll closely monitor the area and if (when) slippage occurs again, I will drill and install the vertical bolts.

Seems this is a known issue, and I'm disappointed that FR hasn't made the efforts to rectify the problem. Would be easy for the factory to install vertical bolts.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:34 AM   #8
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I know if you drill and install the vertical bolts you will "Not "have to inspect for Movement in the future! Youroo! !
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:36 AM   #9
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Similar things happen with leaf spring mounts. Weld cracks and folds. I've heard of people welding a plate on yhe back side of the mount to box it in and provide another contact point.
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Old 08-26-2018, 08:46 AM   #10
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Perfect posting

I donít have a trailer, but......

I read this string from start to finish, and itís a perfect example of people helping people.

The original post was clear, detailed and included great photos to illustrate exactly what the story was and the concerns of the trouble. The replies were people that detailed their inputs, were helpful, timely and offered great suggestions and solutions.

This was a perfect example of why I love reading here on the forum.

GREAT WORK EVERBODY 👍👍👍
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:42 PM   #11
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Spent some time under the trailer this morning, adjusting the axle brackets tight up against the bottom of the frame and torqueing the bolts to 155 ft-lbs.

It was obvious that the factory did not tighten the bolts to anywhere near that spec. I was able to loosen them with one hand on a standard 1/2" ratchet. It took much more force to tighten to 155.

I hope that they stay and no longer slip. I don't know how I would put vertical bolts in, the front of the frame tubes are capped, so the only access into the tube would be the back, and I have no way to get a bolt all the way up in the tube and down into the axle bracket.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:47 PM   #12
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You could drop each one drill a hole and put in a threaded insert then bolt it back up. I think you can get them from several sources. They are a Nut- sert.
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:41 PM   #13
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You could drop each one drill a hole and put in a threaded insert then bolt it back up. I think you can get them from several sources. They are a Nut- sert.
I’ll check into those. I assumed they wouldn’t be strong enough for this application, but I could be wrong.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:10 PM   #14
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The bigger they are the stronger the are. I use them on cars I build.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:12 PM   #15
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I would also have the alignment checked. If it is not correct you will wear your tires off very quickly. I speak from experience. Find a good frame shop to check it.
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Old 08-26-2018, 03:42 PM   #16
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This is just a thought, but if this bracket is slotted, is it for adjustment or positioning of the axles? If it is it might never have been even with the frame at the top. A call to Forest River would answer that. As I said just a thought.
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:59 PM   #17
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This is just a thought, but if this bracket is slotted, is it for adjustment or positioning of the axles? If it is it might never have been even with the frame at the top. A call to Forest River would answer that. As I said just a thought.

Thanks, I considered that also, but it was obvious by the marks made on the brackets that it was originally bolted tight to the frame and slipped down. I don't think the bolts were tightened properly at the factory.
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Old 08-28-2018, 11:31 AM   #18
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I would also have the alignment checked. If it is not correct you will wear your tires off very quickly. I speak from experience. Find a good frame shop to check it.
Before you invest in a frame shop, there are easy ways to check/verify the state of allignment. It involves precise semetrical measurements from center of ball to similar points on each axle or wheel to check for any obvious incorrect allignment. Once the frame attachment is verified there is still the possibility of bending at one wheel or another. My old trailer had problems with TOE IN/OUT on one wheel. Evidently that front wheel left side had been slammed into a curb or other immovable object and was bent, in the spindle or point of weld to the tube. I had the fortune of knowledge and the tools to BEND IT BACK, but that was an issue that most would want to take to a good frame shop. That problem as it turns out, you could SEE BY JUST taking a very straight piece of lumber and running it along both tires. Could easily see the front one toed out .
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