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Old 07-07-2015, 11:26 AM   #11
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I've know several folks in the upper northern regions where there are several days of below zero degree day/nights and like the added insurance of both blowing out the lines and adding anti-freeze. It doesn't take that much time and is what I do. But hey, wait! What the heck am thinking about winterizing at this time of year!!!


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Old 07-07-2015, 11:27 AM   #12
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pump the antifreeze in with the faucets open until antifreeze comes out the faucet.

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Old 07-07-2015, 12:59 PM   #13
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You could also use this line to pump a mixture of bleach and water in order to sanitize your rig. I did that on my previous RV.
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Old 07-07-2015, 02:35 PM   #14
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blowing the lines does not get to the water pump itself you need to suck in some antifreeze for that so that the pump itself will be protected.
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Old 07-07-2015, 04:08 PM   #15
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We also open and close ball valves to get the water out of the valve. I have seen that small column of water in the valve crack the valve when it freezes.
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Old 07-07-2015, 11:33 PM   #16
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Get a faucet to hose adapter from any hardware store, hook it up to your bathroom sink in place of the aerator and run a water hose to the fresh water fill port. Turn on the faucet, set the valve to draw water from the jug and you can use the system's water pump to fill the fresh water tank.

The only time I've done this is when I was camping at a NP and they didn't allow hooking a hose up to the hydrant to refill your fresh water tank. five trips with two 5-gal water cans refilled the tank. two 5-gal jugs full of water weighs around 80lbs so I use a folding cart to transport them.

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Old 07-08-2015, 06:41 AM   #17
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Folks, might check your winterization instruction if you have them! Mine say definitely do not use air to purge water lines! I use about 4 gallons of the pink stuff and the factory installed antifreeze inlet! Turn on one facet at a time, let it run pink on both hot and cold after by passing the water heater. Letting a pint or so of pink run, should take care of the drain traps. Kill electric to water heater, drain through anode then flush with water to remove any sentiment from tank. Wait a couple of days then tape and replace anode. Using this procedure for about 10 years with no issues. With the use of pex fittings would be a repair I would like to avoid if damage did occur from the use of air. Happy camping!
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Old 07-08-2015, 06:57 AM   #18
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Been camping for 33 years now. I've seen problems with "just blowing out the lines". It's so easy with winterizing with RV antifreeze. Like stated you won't and I say again "you won't" get all the water out with just blowing out the lines. When you use RV antifreeze then there's no worry. I'd rather spend a little to do it right then have one little joint behind the wall freeze and burst.
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:13 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by satdog01 View Post
Folks, might check your winterization instruction if you have them! Mine say definitely do not use air to purge water lines!
I've see the debates on blowing out the lines vs using the pink stuff vs doing both but never in my life have I heard anyone say not to use air to blow out the lines. I can't even think of a reason not too.

What manufacturer recommends not doing it?
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Old 07-08-2015, 08:31 AM   #20
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Do both

I agree with youroo. You can't remove all of the water by blowing the lines. After draining and by passing my water heater I blow the lines and it takes less than 3 gallons of rv antifreeze at 6 bucks each to fill them. $18 is a cheap price to pay compared to plumbing repairs from frozen lines. All of us rv owners need peace of mind when we can get it.

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pump, water, water pump

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