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Old 07-08-2015, 09:37 AM   #21
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Using compressed air is ok as long as you use a pressure regulator and keep it at 50-60 psi. The warnings about not using air are for the dummies that would use straight 120-150 psi.
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:36 AM   #22
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This guy makes some sense.

Winterizing with Air

I don't agree with his oil issue reason for air blowing I don't drink that water anyways. We always bring bottled water for cooking and drinking. The rest of his rationale makes sense to me. (I blow and antfreeze.)
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Old 07-08-2015, 10:36 AM   #23
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Originally Posted by Tireguy397 View Post
Using compressed air is ok as long as you use a pressure regulator and keep it at 50-60 psi. The warnings about not using air are for the dummies that would use straight 120-150 psi.
I have a small compressor I keep the regulator set to 50 pounds. That is all I need for the tires on the trailer and it is too small to run any air tools with so never change it.

You could get away with 120 pounds as long as all your faucets are open and you shut the compressor off before closing them. Close them with the compressor running and may find out how many joints your water system has! Now that would be stupid!

Jim
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:00 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by Jim Schings View Post
This guy makes some sense.

Winterizing with Air

I don't agree with his oil issue reason for air blowing I don't drink that water anyways. We always bring bottled water for cooking and drinking. The rest of his rationale makes sense to me. (I blow and antfreeze.)
He does have a good point about the oil if you are using a commercial compressor. This is one of the reaspns I use a small dedicated compressor for my trailer.

Pancake Air Compressor - 3 Gallon, 100 PSI

He is just trying to sell his 0nline book for 10 bucks. Don't agree about what he says about the water pump either. If your air line connection is on the suction side like mine air has to go thru the pump and blow out water.

After reading everything here I am going to still blow out my lines but woll them pump anti-freeze in. Better safe than sorry.

Jim
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:06 AM   #25
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blowing the lines does not get to the water pump itself you need to suck in some antifreeze for that so that the pump itself will be protected.
Not true. It depends on where the air line is connected. Mine is on the suction side so the air has to go thru the pump.

Jim
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Old 07-08-2015, 11:10 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Tireguy397 View Post
Using compressed air is ok as long as you use a pressure regulator and keep it at 50-60 psi. The warnings about not using air are for the dummies that would use straight 120-150 psi.
On the positive side, 150 psi WILL remove the water.
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Old 07-08-2015, 01:23 PM   #27
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And it would be easy to find. Just leave the compressor hooked up and listen for the escaping air.��
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Old 07-08-2015, 05:55 PM   #28
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To clarify, the winterization list I have came from the dealer I purchased my tt from. Have seen a similar at another dealer in Nashville. The point that they we trying to make is IF too much air pressure is put into system, greater than 50-60 Lbs, there is a danger of blowing a Pex connector and possibly damage pump seals, again a lot of pressure with all facets closed. On my previous tt, I did purchase and use the air nozzle and I remember having to open and close facets to get most of the water out. Never did feel as though I got it all out. Lost the line inside the wall that fed the outside shower. Was a bear to fix. Had to attach the new pipe to the old and pull new line in as the old came out. Lost some insulation in the process. Only use air to dry out water heater if I am short on time, only with low pressure!
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Old 07-09-2015, 02:59 PM   #29
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To clarify, the winterization list I have came from the dealer I purchased my tt from. Have seen a similar at another dealer in Nashville. The point that they we trying to make is IF too much air pressure is put into system, greater than 50-60 Lbs, there is a danger of blowing a Pex connector and possibly damage pump seals, again a lot of pressure with all facets closed. On my previous tt, I did purchase and use the air nozzle and I remember having to open and close facets to get most of the water out. Never did feel as though I got it all out. Lost the line inside the wall that fed the outside shower. Was a bear to fix. Had to attach the new pipe to the old and pull new line in as the old came out. Lost some insulation in the process. Only use air to dry out water heater if I am short on time, only with low pressure!
As I said earlier I have a dedicated compressor set to 50 pounds. If I open too many faucets it can't keep up and maintain the 50 pounds pressure.

The outside shower line is a common line to break. It is easy to forget to drain that line, especially if you do not use it often. I use mine to hose the dog down more than anything, she is a 70 pound chocolate lab. She loves it, LOL! She goes crazy when a hose is turned on! Loves to run in a stream or jumps in the lake and goes swimming. Even tried to get in the swimming pool. But if it is raining forget it, she won't go out! You figure it out, I can't.

Jim
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Old 07-12-2015, 12:09 AM   #30
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Hose connections for water pump

We had an experience several years ago with some bad plumbing antifreeze and it took two seasons to get the bad taste out of the lines. Set the compressor pressure to 45 psi and use an adapter for the air line to the water connection so you can do it with one person. We have blown the lines out every year and then leave the low point drains and all taps open afterwards. Have never had an issue in over 5 years. We winterized our cabin the same way and blow out the lawn irrigation systems every year. Take your time and use lots of air, cycle thru the taps and low points several time and all should be good.


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