Is there a Hot air return for furnace?

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

On a Rockwood #8289 there is a 2" duct that blows into the basement. But remember the R/A has no ducts so when the furnace is on it also pulling warm air down there from your living space...

Going to call FR on Monday. Have three or four questions for them to answer. I have called them in the past and found that the tech's try to be helpful.

What year is the 8289? I have an 08 8280SS which only has one slide for the living area. They discontinued it in 09, still offered the 8280 but with two slides, the 8280WS has a living area and a bedroom slide.

Just went to FR web site and looked at their winter package. There was no mention of duct work so no help to me.

Jim

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

That Stat will work with your new unit, you just do not hook-up the blue and one of the fan wires. Honeywell will tell you no because your trying to hook it up to a 12v system and not 24v. The batteries takecare of that. same as any other battery stat like hunter or other honeywells...

I will try it again but was so disgusted I almost threw it out, LOL! I get that way at times. I had to go look in the trailer to be sure I didn't.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tat-87888.html

I had started a thread about doing it. Was so aggravated I never went back to it.

Was given a wiring diagram but it didn't work. It was for converting a Coleman Mach Analog Thermostat to the digital stat. Didn't work because on my old stat blue is not ground, it is hi-fan and needs to be hooked up. My old stat is a Duo-therm made by Dometic. It uses 7 wires. It looks like this one.

Dometic 3106995.032 Analog Thermostat Cool Furnace Trailer Camper RV

Jim

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by oldtool2

I will try it again but was so disgusted I almost threw it out, LOL! I get that way at times. I had to go look in the trailer to be sure I didn't.

http://www.forestriverforums.com/for...tat-87888.html

I had started a thread about doing it. Was so aggravated I never went back to it.

Was given a wiring diagram but it didn't work. It was for converting a Coleman Mach Analog Thermostat to the digital stat. Didn't work because on my old stat blue is not ground, it is hi-fan and needs to be hooked up. My old stat is a Duo-therm made by Dometic. It uses 7 wires. It looks like this one.
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Dometic 3106995.032 Analog Thermostat Cool Furnace Trailer Camper RV

Jim

Blue should be a ground, and you should have a green and gray for high and low fan speeds. Try hooking it up to

R- red wire
y-yellow
g- to green or gray
w- white to white wire
tape the rest of the ends and leave them
then see if the honeywell will work. Do you have a H/P? It shows h/p on the cover plate. If you have a HP it will not work. Get back to me so I can research this for you...check this thread
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[Crockett]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

The problem with these that I have found is that it WILL increase the air flow:

Pro's
1) more air flow

Con's
1) 110 Volt
2) temp problem being the FPM of air will fell like a draft only

he was looking to circulate air to basement through the furnace when it was not on Glen. only when he was only operating an electric space heater.

dave

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Blue should be a ground, and you should have a green and gray for high and low fan speeds. Try hooking it up to

R- red wire
y-yellow
g- to green or gray
w- white to white wire
tape the rest of the ends and leave them
then see if the honeywell will work. Do you have a H/P? It shows h/p on the cover plate. If you have a HP it will not work. Get back to me so I can research this for you...check this thread
» Recent Discussions
Dometic Brisk Air II Heat Strip Add on the forum

A H/P? On the new Honeywell? Nope, no such marking.

Jim

[WolfWhistle]

From an old post...
Obviously this won't work for everyone, but since I don't care to heat the toy bay and its only me, it works great. This came from a member Norstar99, to give credit where due. The reason this was necessary, is that the furnace in these units are only 19K BTU. This mod reverses the flow of air incoming from the registers and supply is out this added 10 x 10 louvered grill. Also, my main heat source isn't this very inefficient LPG furnace.

"Completed the furnace mod. Removed and left off the furnace covers (both the one made of wood and the interior access cover); removed 2 ducts (moved them to the sides to act as return air vents); taped up the duct holes (2 layers) taped the furnace to the cabinet to direct the hot outward (filled the gap); added 10" x 10" louvered grill cover (painted black). This was Northstar1960 idea. Since we don't care about heating the garage, the heater will work much better and might actually put out 19K BTU. I think a 12" x 12" grill would have worked a little better. Got grill and aluminum tape from HD."

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by oldtool2

A H/P? On the new Honeywell? Nope, no such marking.

Jim

No I was talking about the link you provided it showed h/p on it. If you do not have a h/p it should work with an a/c and furnace only....The honeywell you showed is a heat/cool only. The battery in the stat will take place of your supply voltage. Do you have 1) AC and 1) furnace? If you say your blue wire is the high speed fan wire hook that up in place of the green or gray that I mentioned before. Blue has always been ground on other units you only need 4 wires.

[Witch Doctor]

Originally Posted by Crockett

he was looking to circulate air to basement through the furnace when it was not on Glen. only when he was only operating an electric space heater.

dave

Sorry Dave I kinda was answering 2 different questions. To circulate air in the basement just add a switch to the blower motor and turn it on. I know OC has done this for years. He heats with a eden and just turns the blower on for the furnace.... OC WHERE ARE YOU?

[elind]

In my Wildcat I have two insulated hoses going to my underbelly in my basement. This would work for me if I put in a booster inline blower. Then put in a 40 degree thermostat in the underbelly to turn it on when the temp drops.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

No I was talking about the link you provided it showed h/p on it. If you do not have a h/p it should work with an a/c and furnace only....The honeywell you showed is a heat/cool only. The battery in the stat will take place of your supply voltage. Do you have 1) AC and 1) furnace? If you say your blue wire is the high speed fan wire hook that up in place of the green or gray that I mentioned before. Blue has always been ground on other units you only need 4 wires.

Ok, maybe I will go play later today. I only have one ac unit and one furnace, only one zone. I knew the stat is only a heat / cool stat with one fan speed but that is all I need in the trailer. I have an expensive good stat in the house and haven't used the program feature sense I retired.

I was given the thermostat diagram sheet from a "new" old style Dometic analog stat by a rv mechanic. It shows the field wiring as:

+7.5 as red or red/white
fur as white
hp/hs as violet or orange
cool as yellow
fan as orange or tan
gnd as black or green
Hi-fan as blue

The Dometic stat has three switches, heat / cool, fan auto or on and a high low for fan speed. I could add the fan speed switch to the new Honeywell but never used the low speed so why bother?

Inside of the Honeywell stat there is a switch to set for a gas/oil furnace or an electric or heat pump. I have no heat pump so left it set on gas/oil, so that should not be a problem.

Jim

[OldCoot]

As Glenn stated, I just set our EdenPure electric heater in front of the furnace at night and turn on the furnace blower to circulate heat throughout the 5er and the basement. Had to remove the furnace to get to the blower to add the extra switch so the blower will work without the burner being on. Works great.

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by gljurczyk

Sorry Dave I kinda was answering 2 different questions. To circulate air in the basement just add a switch to the blower motor and turn it on. I know OC has done this for years. He heats with a eden and just turns the blower on for the furnace.... OC WHERE ARE YOU?

Oldcoot (OC) was here, see posts #3 and #11. What he did would work for me, just one problem. I am trying to not have to pull the furnace out. The only way he found to put a switch on the furnace blower motor required pulling it out. In order to run the blower with-out igniting the furnace would require that switch.

There is a "NO (normally open) time delay relay" that you need to get to. You need to supply 12 volts to the motor line off of that relay, hence the switch.

I am trying to add heat to the underbelly with-out tearing the furnace out. Using a booster fan controlled by a thermostat seems to be the only other way to do this.

There would be no heat from the registers but a god ceramic heater and using the ceiling fan should keep the trailer comfortable. If it got too cold for it to keep up then I could run the furnace.

Jim

[oldtool2]

Originally Posted by OldCoot

As Glenn stated, I just set our EdenPure electric heater in front of the furnace at night and turn on the furnace blower to circulate heat throughout the 5er and the basement. Had to remove the furnace to get to the blower to add the extra switch so the blower will work without the burner being on. Works great.

Yes, need to get 12 VDC to the red wire on the blower motor. If that wire came out to the wiring harness it would be easy but it doesn't. It comes off a relay inside the furnace.

Jim