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Old 08-29-2015, 09:14 AM   #31
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
you could just trace each line from the furnace to see where it goes.. usually the basement line restricts to 2" but not always.
Have got to look but don't think it will be easy to open up the underbelly (basement) and see the duct work. It doesn't appear to be dropping down to 2". I have a register a couple of feet in front of the bedroom steps and one a foot or so from the top step of the bedroom. I assumed that the duct went straight from the one to the other going under the steps but was wrong. It goes to the left a couple of feet then towards the front area to under the bedroom area. It is a flexible 4" duct line at this point. It goes up against the bathroom sink and outdoor shower water lines at this point and runs to the bedroom register. By doing this they are supplying heat to protect the water lines and the water pump. I see no other reason to do this.

I am not saying there isn't a 2" branch line in the underbelly but I have my doubts, I don't think there would be much of an advantage to it if they are using uninsulated flex duct lines.

I am now trying to decide what is going to be easier, install a couple of booster fans or pull out the furnace and wire in a switch for the furnace blower. In either case the switch would only be used when I am running an electric heater. The boosters would each be on its own stat and they would only run when the underbelly or water pump areas got around freezing or below. There would be no need to put them on a switch.

Jim
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:31 AM   #32
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If you have access to a 4" duct, I can assure you it would be easier to install a booster fan than pull the furnace. VOE
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Old 08-29-2015, 09:56 AM   #33
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Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?
No the thermostat will NOT beable to control it. You would need 6 wires to run a heat strip and a single cool 2 stage heat stat. You probably have 5 wire's . If I can be of help let me know, exactly what you have and what you want to do....
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:13 AM   #34
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Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz
Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?


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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
No the thermostat will NOT beable to control it. You would need 6 wires to run a heat strip and a single cool 2 stage heat stat. You probably have 5 wire's . If I can be of help let me know, exactly what you have and what you want to do....
I posted this earlier. I think adding the heat strip could turn into quite a project.

After installing the heat strip you will need to change the stat. I only used mine once or twice but do remember it had a separate switch to turn on the blower without the compressor coming on. I seem to remember a switch being mounted on the AC unit itself also, to turn the strip on, not on the stat for the strip.

Jim
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:37 AM   #35
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Originally Posted by Crockett View Post
maybe just boost to the cold areas with these...

Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan-DB204 - The Home Depot
The problem with these that I have found is that it WILL increase the air flow:

Pro's
1) more air flow

Con's
1) 110 Volt
2) temp problem being the FPM of air will fell like a draft only
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Old 08-29-2015, 10:45 AM   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz
Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?




I posted this earlier. I think adding the heat strip could turn into quite a project.

After installing the heat strip you will need to change the stat. I only used mine once or twice but do remember it had a separate switch to turn on the blower without the compressor coming on. I seem to remember a switch being mounted on the AC unit itself also, to turn the strip on, not on the stat for the strip.

Jim
Not quite sure what you had. You turn the blower on at the stat, just put it to on not auto. You need a 2 stage heat for the reason of stage one could be your strip and stage 2 could be your fau only. The hardest part is that you need 6 wires to do this. This is per Coleman mach site. Plus you will need a heat pump stat that has emergency heat switch.
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:01 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by gljurczyk View Post
The problem with these that I have found is that it WILL increase the air flow:

Pro's
1) more air flow

Con's
1) 110 Volt
2) temp problem being the FPM of air will fell like a draft only
This is from post #24.

Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
The booster does not need to be placed in to the duct to draw air from the trailer. The fan can be controlled by a thermostat that could be dropped into the underbelly of the trailer so it would only run when needed.

Suncourt Ductstat Plug-In Thermostat Temperature Sensitive Switch-DS100 - The Home Depot

Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan-DB204 - The Home Depot

Jim
I agree, putting one in line of the existing duct work might, in fact probably would, cause too much air flow making the registers feel like a draft.

However if placed somewhere like under the sink or tv set to blow into the underbelly or storage area they could come in handy. Especially useful when using electric heat when not running the furnace. I would hook them up to a thermostat though so they only ran when needed. When on shorepower they would run when needed even if you were running the furnace. They would supply added heat if those areas got too cold.

Jim
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Old 08-29-2015, 11:42 AM   #38
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Not quite sure what you had. You turn the blower on at the stat, just put it to on not auto. You need a 2 stage heat for the reason of stage one could be your strip and stage 2 could be your fau only. The hardest part is that you need 6 wires to do this. This is per Coleman mach site. Plus you will need a heat pump stat that has emergency heat switch.
It was an older TT and had a Suburban AC unit if I remember right. Different manufactures, different wiring?

I do know if it wasn't prewired it could be a big problem.

A simple thing like changing a stat like I tried to do can become a headache! I have an analog stat in my 5er. Tried to change mine to a digital stat, this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

After a couple of hours and trying everything I could think of I called Honeywell. After 15 minutes they came back on the phone and informed me I can not use that stat with my furnace. ??? They didn't give me an explanation, guy didn't know why, just that his supervisor said it can't be done. Lot of help they were!

Jim
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:42 PM   #39
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
The booster does not need to be placed in to the duct to draw air from the trailer. The fan can be controlled by a thermostat that could be dropped into the underbelly of the trailer so it would only run when needed.

Suncourt Ductstat Plug-In Thermostat Temperature Sensitive Switch-DS100 - The Home Depot

Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan-DB204 - The Home Depot

Does anyone know if there is a duct vent located in the underbelly or is that area heated just by the uninsulated duct itself?

Jim
On a Rockwood #8289 there is a 2" duct that blows into the basement. But remember the R/A has no ducts so when the furnace is on it also pulling warm air down there from your living space...
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:52 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by oldtool2 View Post
It was an older TT and had a Suburban AC unit if I remember right. Different manufactures, different wiring?

I do know if it wasn't prewired it could be a big problem.

A simple thing like changing a stat like I tried to do can become a headache! I have an analog stat in my 5er. Tried to change mine to a digital stat, this one:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00

After a couple of hours and trying everything I could think of I called Honeywell. After 15 minutes they came back on the phone and informed me I can not use that stat with my furnace. ??? They didn't give me an explanation, guy didn't know why, just that his supervisor said it can't be done. Lot of help they were!

Jim
That Stat will work with your new unit, you just do not hook-up the blue and one of the fan wires. Honeywell will tell you no because your trying to hook it up to a 12v system and not 24v. The batteries takecare of that. same as any other battery stat like hunter or other honeywells...
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