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08-28-2015, 11:29 AM
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#21
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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if the booster was in the ducting to the basement, then it would draw from the coach air into the basement. put a 40 degree thermo switch and it would cycle very little....
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08-28-2015, 11:40 AM
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#22
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldCoot
Correction: Combustion air is drawn in from the outside, not from the inside of the trailer.
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My mistake, poor choice of words. Trying to keep things a little simple here for those that do not have any HVAC experience. KISS, shall we call it a furnace chamber? What dust doesn't get burned up, and there will be some, will eventually require the furnace to be cleaned. Unfortunately this is not a 15 minute job on these units.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-28-2015, 11:42 AM
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#23
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Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 10,833
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Easiest thing to do is run the furnace built into the trailer on night when freeze is possible. Propane does not cost that much. If you are trying to camp in sub zero temps that is only practical thing to do. We run our fireplace while awake and set the furnace for 65 degrees at night.
__________________
B and B
2022 Venture RV SportTrek STT 302 VRB Travel Trailer
2018 Heartland Landmark 365 Louisville 5th Wheel
2015 Heartland Bighorn 5th Wheel
2013 FR Rockwood 8289WS 5th Wheel
2012 FR Rockwood 2703 SS Travel Trailer
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08-28-2015, 12:07 PM
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#24
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
if the booster was in the ducting to the basement, then it would draw from the coach air into the basement. put a 40 degree thermo switch and it would cycle very little....
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The booster does not need to be placed in to the duct to draw air from the trailer. The fan can be controlled by a thermostat that could be dropped into the underbelly of the trailer so it would only run when needed.
Suncourt Ductstat Plug-In Thermostat Temperature Sensitive Switch-DS100 - The Home Depot
Suncourt Inductor 4 in. In-Line Duct Fan-DB204 - The Home Depot
Does anyone know if there is a duct vent located in the underbelly or is that area heated just by the uninsulated duct itself?
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-28-2015, 12:20 PM
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#25
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by B and B
Easiest thing to do is run the furnace built into the trailer on night when freeze is possible. Propane does not cost that much. If you are trying to camp in sub zero temps that is only practical thing to do. We run our fireplace while awake and set the furnace for 65 degrees at night.
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Yes that probably is the easiest thing to do. However, if you put a booster fan to blow into the underbelly controlled by a thermostat you could just run the fireplace and never have to turn on your furnace unless it got very cold. If he gets down around zero it's getting time to winterize the trailer and stay home. However for some people their trailer is their home.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-28-2015, 12:53 PM
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#26
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
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ok..why not go into the basement duct??
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08-28-2015, 01:30 PM
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#27
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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edit...it would draw ambient air from the coach through the furnace housing, the ductwork is already there, and it would not interfere with normal furnace operation..
edit in wrong location...there should be a basement duct on models with a winter pkg..
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08-28-2015, 02:52 PM
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#28
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
ok..why not go into the basement duct??
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IF you have one and IF you can get to it then that would work. I am going to have to call FR to find out I guess. I really don't feel like tearing my underbelly apart to look.
What I am saying is you don't need to cut your duct work to add heat to the underbelly. I want to put heat there when running an electric heater. Going into the duct work would not be the best option if the furnace is not running.
If it gets near zero I agree running the furnace will probably be needed. If it is around thirty or forty then I want to use an electric heater if I am already paying for shorepower.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-28-2015, 02:57 PM
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#29
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
edit...it would draw ambient air from the coach through the furnace housing, the ductwork is already there, and it would not interfere with normal furnace operation..
edit in wrong location...there should be a basement duct on models with a winter pkg..
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But I don't know if I have a winter package. Again another phone call to forest River I guess.
I was just out looking at the water pump and notice something I didn't see before. There is a section about 6 feet long of flexible ductwork which goes to a register in the bed area. This section of duct work runs are crossed the trailer and is run next to the water lines going to the bathroom sink. I'm guessing that's how they are keeping those lines from freezing.
It is also the reason why so many people complain about the heat in the bedroom area. If that was an insulated duct they would get much more heat in the bedroom. To me it doesn't matter I like a cool bedroom. That's probably the reason they did it because most people do.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-28-2015, 03:47 PM
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#30
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2015
Posts: 847
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you could just trace each line from the furnace to see where it goes.. usually the basement line restricts to 2" but not always. 
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08-29-2015, 08:14 AM
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#31
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
you could just trace each line from the furnace to see where it goes.. usually the basement line restricts to 2" but not always. |
Have got to look but don't think it will be easy to open up the underbelly (basement) and see the duct work. It doesn't appear to be dropping down to 2". I have a register a couple of feet in front of the bedroom steps and one a foot or so from the top step of the bedroom. I assumed that the duct went straight from the one to the other going under the steps but was wrong. It goes to the left a couple of feet then towards the front area to under the bedroom area. It is a flexible 4" duct line at this point. It goes up against the bathroom sink and outdoor shower water lines at this point and runs to the bedroom register. By doing this they are supplying heat to protect the water lines and the water pump. I see no other reason to do this.
I am not saying there isn't a 2" branch line in the underbelly but I have my doubts, I don't think there would be much of an advantage to it if they are using uninsulated flex duct lines.
I am now trying to decide what is going to be easier, install a couple of booster fans or pull out the furnace and wire in a switch for the furnace blower. In either case the switch would only be used when I am running an electric heater. The boosters would each be on its own stat and they would only run when the underbelly or water pump areas got around freezing or below. There would be no need to put them on a switch.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-29-2015, 08:31 AM
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#32
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Mod free 5er
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Concord, NC
Posts: 24,702
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If you have access to a 4" duct, I can assure you it would be easier to install a booster fan than pull the furnace. VOE
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08-29-2015, 08:56 AM
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#33
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz
Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?
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No the thermostat will NOT beable to control it. You would need 6 wires to run a heat strip and a single cool 2 stage heat stat. You probably have 5 wire's . If I can be of help let me know, exactly what you have and what you want to do.... 
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-29-2015, 09:13 AM
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#34
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz
Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?
Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
No the thermostat will NOT beable to control it. You would need 6 wires to run a heat strip and a single cool 2 stage heat stat. You probably have 5 wire's . If I can be of help let me know, exactly what you have and what you want to do.... |
I posted this earlier. I think adding the heat strip could turn into quite a project.
After installing the heat strip you will need to change the stat. I only used mine once or twice but do remember it had a separate switch to turn on the blower without the compressor coming on. I seem to remember a switch being mounted on the AC unit itself also, to turn the strip on, not on the stat for the strip.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-29-2015, 09:37 AM
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#35
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crockett
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The problem with these that I have found is that it WILL increase the air flow:
Pro's
1) more air flow
Con's
1) 110 Volt
2) temp problem being the FPM of air will fell like a draft only
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-29-2015, 09:45 AM
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#36
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
Quote:
Originally Posted by DaveSchwartz
Mine does have the internal pigtail for a heat strip but I don't know if the thermostat that was set up for a cool-only unit would support it. Anybody know if its possible?
I posted this earlier. I think adding the heat strip could turn into quite a project.
After installing the heat strip you will need to change the stat. I only used mine once or twice but do remember it had a separate switch to turn on the blower without the compressor coming on. I seem to remember a switch being mounted on the AC unit itself also, to turn the strip on, not on the stat for the strip.
Jim
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Not quite sure what you had. You turn the blower on at the stat, just put it to on not auto. You need a 2 stage heat for the reason of stage one could be your strip and stage 2 could be your fau only. The hardest part is that you need 6 wires to do this. This is per Coleman mach site. Plus you will need a heat pump stat that has emergency heat switch.
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-29-2015, 10:01 AM
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#37
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
The problem with these that I have found is that it WILL increase the air flow:
Pro's
1) more air flow
Con's
1) 110 Volt
2) temp problem being the FPM of air will fell like a draft only
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This is from post #24.
Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
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I agree, putting one in line of the existing duct work might, in fact probably would, cause too much air flow making the registers feel like a draft.
However if placed somewhere like under the sink or tv set to blow into the underbelly or storage area they could come in handy. Especially useful when using electric heat when not running the furnace. I would hook them up to a thermostat though so they only ran when needed. When on shorepower they would run when needed even if you were running the furnace. They would supply added heat if those areas got too cold.
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-29-2015, 10:42 AM
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#38
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Senior Member
Join Date: May 2015
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gljurczyk
Not quite sure what you had. You turn the blower on at the stat, just put it to on not auto. You need a 2 stage heat for the reason of stage one could be your strip and stage 2 could be your fau only. The hardest part is that you need 6 wires to do this. This is per Coleman mach site. Plus you will need a heat pump stat that has emergency heat switch.
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It was an older TT and had a Suburban AC unit if I remember right. Different manufactures, different wiring?
I do know if it wasn't prewired it could be a big problem.
A simple thing like changing a stat like I tried to do can become a headache! I have an analog stat in my 5er. Tried to change mine to a digital stat, this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00
After a couple of hours and trying everything I could think of I called Honeywell. After 15 minutes they came back on the phone and informed me I can not use that stat with my furnace. ??? They didn't give me an explanation, guy didn't know why, just that his supervisor said it can't be done. Lot of help they were!
Jim
__________________
07 Dodge 1500 crew cab with 20" wheels, 08 Forest River Rockwood Signature Ultra-lite 8280SS
"The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore, all progress depends on the unreasonable man."
George Bernard Shaw
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08-29-2015, 12:42 PM
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#39
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
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On a Rockwood #8289 there is a 2" duct that blows into the basement. But remember the R/A has no ducts so when the furnace is on it also pulling warm air down there from your living space...
__________________
Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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08-29-2015, 12:52 PM
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#40
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Clarksville Va.
Posts: 10,422
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oldtool2
It was an older TT and had a Suburban AC unit if I remember right. Different manufactures, different wiring?
I do know if it wasn't prewired it could be a big problem.
A simple thing like changing a stat like I tried to do can become a headache! I have an analog stat in my 5er. Tried to change mine to a digital stat, this one:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ilpage_o03_s00
After a couple of hours and trying everything I could think of I called Honeywell. After 15 minutes they came back on the phone and informed me I can not use that stat with my furnace. ??? They didn't give me an explanation, guy didn't know why, just that his supervisor said it can't be done. Lot of help they were!
Jim |
That Stat will work with your new unit, you just do not hook-up the blue and one of the fan wires. Honeywell will tell you no because your trying to hook it up to a 12v system and not 24v. The batteries takecare of that. same as any other battery stat like hunter or other honeywells... 
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Coachmen M/H
Concord
2018 / 300 DSC
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