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Old 08-05-2016, 11:44 AM   #1
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Leaky grey tank valve

So our Sabre has had a leaky grey tank valve since we picked it up in April. Every time I take off the cap the entire tube is full of water. Thank goodness it's grey!

So with the full underbelly enclosure and the fact that it was new and I really didn't feel like tackling it, I left the grey tanks at 1/3 and took it back to the dealer so that they could figure out which of the two front tanks is leaking and fix the valve. They returned it stating that it wasn't leaking. Both tanks were empty and the cap was left off when I picked it up. (Which seems odd, where did the water go?) So with the cap off and tank empty I couldn't prove or disprove their claim.

Off we go camping and upon changing campgrounds I open the cap and take my now routine grey water shower again. This time I isolate which tank it is, take it back to the dealer (other issues that couldn't wait) and again they return the unit saying no leak. I ask how they test it and they say they take off the cap and monitor it for leaks for 4 hours. I go out and the tank is empty and cap is off. I ask how they test it if the tank is empty? I also ask them if it rushed out when they removed the cap? Where is the 1/3 tank I left it it didn't leak out or you didn't dump it? Of course no answers other than they didn't see it leaking /dripping for the 4 hours they watched it.

So at this point I'm likely going to have to tackle it myself which will mean dropping the underbelly enclosure and disconnection 3 tank connections? That tube is hooked to two grey and one black tank. I have no idea whether I could pull just one connection to work on the valve or just plan on all three. Even then I won't know what parts to have on hand as I haven't pulled apart tank dump plumbing before.

Any suggestions on what to expect or how to prepare for the job? It is a Sabre 36qbok.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:53 AM   #2
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Id dump some water down it right in front of them and sit there with them. Maybe a little time consuming but if you have the time that is the route I would go.
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Old 08-05-2016, 03:57 PM   #3
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Along SuicideSaints' line of thinking, I'd fill the tank that's leaking full of fresh water and put the cap on. Then I'd take it to the dealer and put a bucket under the outlet and remove the cap and stand there until they see what you saw.
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Old 08-07-2016, 09:00 PM   #4
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I may have to do just that. But if I decide to tackle it on my own any hints/suggestions on what to expect?
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:34 PM   #5
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If you decide to replace the valve yourself, you'll have to either remove the coroplast underbelly covering or cut a trap door in it where the valve is. A lot of people just cut a three sided door in the underbelly and Gorilla tape it back closed when they're done. In fact, a lot of repair places do the same thing.

Once you get to the valve, it isn't a big job to replace it.
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:45 PM   #6
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First thing I would suggest either find another dealer or just fix it yourself. The level of incompetence of RV dealer service departments is really significant to the point in my opinion you're usually better off doing it yourself.

Second is get a twist on gate valve and attach it to the end of the pipe and even if the valves leak a little inside this will catch it before you get wet.

https://www.amazon.com/Valterra-T58-...rv+drain+valve
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:50 PM   #7
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Check Valve

We have the same problem, they don't seem to really care about it. We resolved the problem by putting a sewer check valve (or gate valve) on the end the shut off where you hook your hose. We hook up the hose and release this valve first, when empty, proceed to the black water and the rest of your routine. We had this leftover from our horse trailer with living quarters, it does the job for us and not having to hassle with the dealer! The valve is readily available at Camping World or other rv places. We leave it hooked up permanently and put the cap on it. Technical name at Camping World: Catalog Item # 27868 Twist-on Valve , it is less than $25. Here is the link to see it: Twist-on Valve - Valterra T58 - Sewer Fittings & Adapters - Camping World
I have also attached a picture of it. Hope this helps!
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Old 08-08-2016, 12:59 PM   #8
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If I had to choose between all the work underneath myself or adding the twist on valve, I'd use the valve.


In fact, I *DO* have the twist on as a "belt and suspenders" approach to the tanks (and I don't have any leaks-yet).


With the extra valve, I know nothing is coming out when I take off the cap! Before I was older and wiser, I had a mess to clean up one very cold (for California) morning because the black tank valve was jammed open. I now have a small bottle of bleach and a bucket handy in my storage compartment AND the extra valve....very cheap insurance against a yucky mess!
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Old 08-08-2016, 06:52 PM   #9
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X4 on the twist on gate valve. I have the same issue as the OP. Took the fiver back twice, over two hours each way, with no fix. Finally heeded everyone's advice and purchased a twist on gate valve and issue solved in under 30 seconds.

The new gate valve also lets you open both the grey and the galley tanks at the same time thus allowing more grey water, more showers than I could before.

I like the kiss principle and you can't get much simpler than this.
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Old 08-08-2016, 08:36 PM   #10
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Thanks guys, I put on the twist on valve last week as the temporary fix but I'm still thinking I'd like to get it fixed in the long run. I hadn't really thought about the extra room of the galley tank though. That's a great tip!
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