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Old 01-28-2019, 12:03 PM   #1
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Leveling

Just got a new used 2018 puma unleashed, 38 ft. 5íver. How does one go about to level front to back and side to side.
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:08 PM   #2
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Assuming you don't have a leveling system, ... you do side to side first by putting something under the tires like wood or LynxLevelers or Andersen Camper Levelers.

Blocks/wood:
Find your spot, check how level you are (we used a 3' level inside the door), and then move the camper forward or backwards so you can put blocks down where the tires were. Pull the camper back onto the blocks and re-check level. Continue until you find that you're level.

Andersen camper levelers:
Find your spot and move the camper so you can put the Andersen Levelers in front of or behind the tires. Pull onto them until you're camper is level.

For front to back, first unhitch from the truck. Front to back leveling is then done with the landing gear.

Here's a full write-up:
RV Leveling is Really Quick and Easy | Learn To RV
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Old 01-28-2019, 12:12 PM   #3
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Do you have an auto level system?
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:51 AM   #4
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I’m a fairly new owner as well. I HAVE an autoleveling system but I’m having a hard time wrapping my head around not having to do ANYTHING but push a button. Do we need to try and get it close and then let the auto system do the finite adjustments or do you just roll into a spot, unhook, and let the magic happen? Thanks and I hope this isn’t a thread hijack.
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Old 01-30-2019, 08:59 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by CAACTUS View Post
Iím a fairly new owner as well. I HAVE an autoleveling system but Iím having a hard time wrapping my head around not having to do ANYTHING but push a button. Do we need to try and get it close and then let the auto system do the finite adjustments or do you just roll into a spot, unhook, and let the magic happen? Thanks and I hope this isnít a thread hijack.
I've read that if you shorten the length of the rams, the camper is more stable. So we add 2 pieces of 2x12 wood to each of the front legs. Then, under each of the other 4 legs, we add a stack of 4 LynxLevelers (we carry 30 of them for a variety of things).

A couple of times, we've had our tires dangling at the end of it. If we are staying a week or less, we just leave it go. If we are staying more than a week, we'll retract the leveling system, hitch up, and put some LynxLevelers under the tires. There have been a couple of times that we've eyeballed the site and thought, "you know, this is likely going to make the tires dangle" so we proactively put blocks under them.

However, it really doesn't hurt anything for the tires to hang. I was at a dealership that had a rig with the tires hanging while it was on the lot for sale. i'm sure it was that way for months.
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:29 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CAACTUS View Post
Iím a fairly new owner as well. I HAVE an autoleveling system but Iím having a hard time wrapping my head around not having to do ANYTHING but push a button. Do we need to try and get it close and then let the auto system do the finite adjustments or do you just roll into a spot, unhook, and let the magic happen? Thanks and I hope this isnít a thread hijack.
After you get used to it, you will love the autolevel!!! We have had ours for seven years. We carry around lynx blocks (20) to reduce the ram extension as ependydad stated. You will soon be able to eyeball which rams need extra blocks under them in uneven sites to prevent ram max extension errors. Then, yep, just press the button and let it do its thing. If for some reason you are not happy with the results of autolevel, you can always use the manual mode to adjust.

We boondock frequently in the backwoods (very uneven) and used to worry about one sides tires being off the ground, but now we don't even pay attention to it. Have been at sites for a month with tires off the ground with no problems.

I also use the rams to purposefully lift tires off the ground (one side at a time) to change tires or repack bearings. I do use jack stands for safety when they are available.

I now almost enjoy setup/teardown with the autolevel system as compared to the PITA method without it

Have fun!
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Old 01-30-2019, 10:41 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by ruddie66 View Post
Just got a new used 2018 puma unleashed, 38 ft. 5íver. How does one go about to level front to back and side to side.
Before autolevel, I would level the new RV to my satisfaction and then permanently install RV bubble gauges to the front (side to side indicator) and on the side (for front to back). I put them where I can easily see them while I push the button to adjust the front landing legs.

Then it is very easy to see where you will need blocks under the tires. Most gauges even have marks that indicate how many inches of blocks you will need for the side to side adjustment. You can even buy the large bubbles that you can see from truck can so you can tell level while pulling into a spot.

Using those permanently mounted bubble gauges saved lots of time and made the leveling process much less frustrating.

Good luck!
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:14 PM   #8
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Ruddie66, I’m sorry for the hijack. What we’ve been doing is getting our trailer a few feet forward of where we want it. I place a set of Anderson Levelers (sort of cam shaped) behind each of the low side wheels and then my wife stands roughly next the the trailer wheels with a 3 foot level against the low side of the trailer and watches the bubble move towards center as she waves me back. We communicate via cell phone if I can’t see her. Once it’s level, she CAFEFULLY slides the included shim blocks under the levelers while I hold the brakes and we’re now level from side to side with the wheels effectively chalked. I also chalk the other side’s wheels. Next, we drop the front landing gear and do the required unhooking so I can go park the truck. Finally, we use the 3 foot level on the floor inside the door to decide how much we need to lift or lower the nose to achieve neutral balance.....then, and only then, was I using the auto level function. Thanks to the other posters, no more of THAT silliness! Happy camping-
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:29 PM   #9
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We use the auto level.

Chock tires.

Raise front. Unhook and move the truck.

If level we put about 4Ē of boards under each pad. This minimizes extensions.

If obviously not level we sort of put extra on one side less on the other side.

The DW Hits the level. I plug electric and water in. Pop the slides and it is cocktail time.

This is our first year. We can do this easy in 15-30 minutes, weather dependent.
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Old 01-30-2019, 11:57 PM   #10
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I don't have auto levelers, so I do it the old skool way.

First off, I got my 5'ver perfectly level...

My criteria for that was to level the trailer side by side and front to back until the glass shower door stays wherever I put it.

Then, I mounted two small levels on the trailer...one above the front landing gear switch and the other just around the corner on the propane tank door on the off-door (drivers) side.

The key to this placement is that I can see both of them in the driver's door mirror of the truck.

I then back on to Lynx leveler blocks with the solid cap on them to level the trailer since I can see the levels perfectly from the drivers seat of the truck.

I can usually level and be unhitched in three to five minutes tops.
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Old 01-31-2019, 11:39 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by NMWildcat View Post
After you get used to it, you will love the autolevel!!! We have had ours for seven years. We carry around lynx blocks (20) to reduce the ram extension as ependydad stated. You will soon be able to eyeball which rams need extra blocks under them in uneven sites to prevent ram max extension errors. Then, yep, just press the button and let it do its thing. If for some reason you are not happy with the results of autolevel, you can always use the manual mode to adjust.

We boondock frequently in the backwoods (very uneven) and used to worry about one sides tires being off the ground, but now we don't even pay attention to it. Have been at sites for a month with tires off the ground with no problems.

I also use the rams to purposefully lift tires off the ground (one side at a time) to change tires or repack bearings. I do use jack stands for safety when they are available.

I now almost enjoy setup/teardown with the autolevel system as compared to the PITA method without it

Have fun!

I do the same but try to get close on side x side, then close after disconnecting 5er, then push auto level. The permanently mounted little levels are indiscreet and a great help. I've had to re-calibrate my auto level a couple of times.
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Old 02-05-2019, 11:45 AM   #12
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thanks to all that replyed. my question should have been more consice, I'am used to leveling a trailer using boards and tire levelers. My new unit does not have a auto leveling system, thus I have to rely on a 2 foot level, I actually place the level on the counter top for front to back level, and place it on the floor or trailer tongue for side to side. I guess to make this short, what and where on the 5'er do you use to level your rig.? Many of your replys have given me some insight.
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:03 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruddie66 View Post
thanks to all that replyed. my question should have been more consice, I'am used to leveling a trailer using boards and tire levelers. My new unit does not have a auto leveling system, thus I have to rely on a 2 foot level, I actually place the level on the counter top for front to back level, and place it on the floor or trailer tongue for side to side. I guess to make this short, what and where on the 5'er do you use to level your rig.? Many of your replys have given me some insight.
On all three of the RV's I've owned over the years, the only place on the inside floor I found to be accurate to use the level for side to side leveling was right dead center on the floor as the floors seem to slope down a little bit toward each outside edge.

I have a 4-foot level that I laid across the floor of my RV's that proved this to me as I could rock it side to side.

Like I said above, I found that the trailer is level when the glass shower door stays open to wherever I place it.

When it is not level...the shower door will swing in or out depending on how unlevel it is.

And once you know you have it level the way you like it is easy to put some levels outside where you can see them so that you won't have to do the in and out guessing game anymore.

Took maybe two minutes to install...
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Old 02-05-2019, 12:18 PM   #14
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Every trailer has different spots to level. And very few spots in any trailer agree on level. You can get it level side to side in the back, but a measurement in the front will not be level.

Some use different spots in the floor, on counters, in the fridge ..... On and on. Get the trailer level so that it feels good to you in the majority of areas, then remember which spots that agree.

Good luck!
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Old 02-05-2019, 06:58 PM   #15
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We always used the floor right inside the door. But, I found we could adjust level simply by moving the level!
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:25 PM   #16
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We always used the floor right inside the door. But, I found we could adjust level simply by moving the level!
Lol

Wow! That must be some level. Or......
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:44 PM   #17
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As others have said we find we get a lot of different measurements in different spots, so we do our best, but the bathroom door always tells the truth.
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