Leveling tires with wood

[jimmoore13]

By the way, these are very nice.

1. Use a carpenter level on the floor of your rig and get it perfectly level.
2. Theoretically, the bottom edge of your straight frame sections will then be perfectly level.
3. Install the Hopkins levels to read perfectly level. Align the bottom edge of the Hopkins level with the bottom edge of the frame. Theoretically, they will align perfectly. Use the double sided tape and attach. Then, CAREFULLY, drill holes and add screws.
4. One Hopkins level on a longitudinal section of frame near the tongue, and one on the cross section of frame where you can see it easily right on the front of the frame.
5. When you have to replace the levels, the screws will be perfectly aligned, and you can just slap on replacements knowing the screw holes are perfectly placed to have the next Hopkins level be just right.
6. The one on the cross section of frame is vulnerable to rock strikes, but they are dirt cheap.

Once installed, you can level your rig in seconds. Have someone watch the bubble on the cross section of frame to get level side to side, then use the tongue jack to level front to rear. Drop the stab jacks and you're done.

[Rookiewood]

Originally Posted by HappyTrav

The big issue is the fridge. If you have an ammonia based RV fridge it needs to be level to operate properly.

Bob

This is true, ammonia base fridge NEEDS to be level (+-2" is ok) or in constant motion (like when you are on the road) to be able to exchange the heat.

[gunpro]

All levellers and bubbles aside, let’s really look at the camper. If it’s leaning to the entrance side and the fridge is working proper, why can’t it lean the opposite way and still work?

[rlh1957]

Originally Posted by 5picker

Even then, slightly unlevel isn't an issue.
Here is what Dometic says... The refrigerator should not be more than 3 degrees unlevel left to right, or 6 degrees unlevel front to back. (They are referring to the refrigerator itself.)

Agree with you on the level and fridge best operation part.
Most people don't realize how much 3 degrees can be, especially when leveling and achieving a slight tilt off level to control roof run off.

[DJ Avenger]

Originally Posted by 5picker

I often level with as much as 5-6" of wood on one side in remote boondocking locations. Sometimes more.

As long as the blocking/ramps/legos/Andersen Levelers are substantial enough to hold the weight you are placing on them, it would be no different then having the tires on concrete/pavement.

Having one side of the R/V slightly higher will pose no issues other than a door may close by itself. It is often said if you can walk comfortably in the R/V, you are not too out of level. Not sure I'd go that far but you get the picture.

5picker,
Do you are anyone else have any ideas on using concrete blocks or deck blocks for leveling more than 6 inches (say 6-10 inches) I have mine setup in the yard for storage until it will be used. I wonder if setting the tires on these blocks could cause tire issues going down the road (blow outs) if the tire is not placed on the flat vs an edge like the top of the deck blocks? I am thinking I need to add a 2x6 on top of the block for a smooth no edge surface.

Thanks for your thoughts,
DJ Avenger

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by thepeddler

5picker: can the degrees you mentioned be converted to inches for front to back, and side to side?

Each degree equals about .6" of elevation at 8 feet (average width of trailer).

With my trailer doing this won't alter the flow of the AC condensate as it dribbles down the door side and my roof is "arched".

If it's a really big issue, consider adding a male hose adapter near the bottom of a 5 gallon bucket's side. Put the bucket under the "drip" and attach a hose to route the water where you want it to go. If the dripping noise is an issue just toss a few nerf balls in the bottom of the bucket.

[bedubya]

Originally Posted by jimmoore13

Now the $64,000 question. Why is condensate an issue in the AC? Is it running off the curb side of your trailer roof and mucking up the outdoor space? Perhaps it would make sense to figure out a kluge to route the condensate thru a hose to where you want it. Just be aware that any condensate drain hose will need to be cleaned somewhat regularly, because it will clog up and it will grow lifeforms that plug it up, too.

For us, we just don't want a mud puddle at our door.

[5picker]

Originally Posted by DJ Avenger

5picker,
Do you are anyone else have any ideas on using concrete blocks or deck blocks for leveling more than 6 inches (say 6-10 inches) I have mine setup in the yard for storage until it will be used. I wonder if setting the tires on these blocks could cause tire issues going down the road (blow outs) if the tire is not placed on the flat vs an edge like the top of the deck blocks? I am thinking I need to add a 2x6 on top of the block for a smooth no edge surface.

Thanks for your thoughts,
DJ Avenger

If you are saying you have your R/V jacked up high enough you want to put cement blocks under the tires, then I'd say you have it pretty high!

At that point, I doubt I'd put anything under the tire but rather cement block piers under the frame and just let the tires/wheels hang free.

This is the way many permanent sites are set up.

I do have to wonder though... that is an awful lot of effort to store your R/V that high between trips. (you said you had concerns of the tires being OK after sitting on the edge of the concrete block for storage until it will be used) Is this a one time thing (until you start using it) or are you going to do this each time you return from a trip?

And... to finally answer your question... no, I wouldn't set the tire on the edge of the concrete block without a board or other flat block on top of the cement block.

Cement blocks are designed to hold load with the edges up but setting the tire on there, (with weight) would not be good for the tire without a full contact patch from a board or other block of some kind.

[TitanMike]

Originally Posted by bedubya

For us, we just don't want a mud puddle at our door.

Wouldn't it be simpler to just put down a pallet and cover it with some outdoor carpet? That would even cover the "puddle" problem if it rains.

[Huntnfishn]

1° = 1"/57-1/4" (approximately)

[jimmoore13]

This calculator will enable you to precisely determine an angle based on the width of the trailer and difference in height of each wheel (pair of wheels).
Angular Size Calculator

On 8 feet (96 inches) a 1" difference in wheel height creates a .6 degree angle (as someone else reported).
Of course, a narrower trailer (many are 7 feet) will have a larger angle with the same 1" difference in wheel height.

Experiment a bit on a LEVEL spot in your driveway to see what the Hopkins (or other brand) bubble levels are telling you. Get a straight 8' 2"x4", a 4' carpenter's level, and do some testing. Raise one side 2" (roughly 1.2 degrees). (With the bubble on the carpenter's level centered, one end of the 2" x 4" will be 2" higher relative to, say, the horizontal trim separating your diamond plate from the trailer body....or using the back bumper if it's full width.) Check with the board/level combo to verify the height difference side-to-side. Then look at your Hopkins level to see where the bubble is. This is your "calibration" so you can easily tell where things are in the field. While you're at it, try 1" and 3" side-to-side lifts so your Hopkins level really informs you. Take notes, or better, a photo at each height differential so you have a reference on interpreting your Hopkins level when you're setting up.

[Jan Gerstner.]

I've had to raise two wheel about eight inches to achieve level. No issues at all, just tedious. I've not felt the need for an offset for condensation or drainage. I think our Dometic refrigerator can be no more than 2" out of level, so that is my usual goal.

[lindenpa]

I use a stall may cut into 6 x 18 inch strips to level. They available at Tractor Supply for around $40. Each piece is 3/4 inches thick. I use a Levelmate to determine what side has to go up and now much. I set the right number of strips in front of each wheel pull forward 6 inches and I am done in one trip from the tv to the trailer wheels. No cracked boards of splinters.