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Old 12-07-2015, 03:45 PM   #1
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Need advice for rose compass decal

Hi all,
I want to attach a rose compass decal (40” X 48”) on the side of the unit left of the front door.
It has aluminum siding. We tried to attach it by pealing back the adhesive backing, but that did not work on the siding.
Need suggestions and advice. I saw some Puma units and wonder how they did it. Thought about a liquid glue and float it on???
Thanks.
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Old 12-07-2015, 03:48 PM   #2
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Siding is going to be a bear to get the right alignment with something that big and all the ridges. I am curious as well since we have siding as well.

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Old 12-07-2015, 08:33 PM   #3
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A razor blade to 'pop' the bubbles, (which you will get), a quality plastic scraper, (like you use with bondo aka body putty) and a heat gun, (a hair dryer works also) is the 'holy trio' when working with decals.



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Old 12-07-2015, 09:12 PM   #4
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You could try a mixture of Johnson's baby shampoo and water. flood the back of decal and area which you want decal. Carefully apply decal locate and center then slowly start to squeegee excess water out. Starting from center to the outer edges removing bubbles. Do not rip decal. A hair drier can help soften and shape but again be careful.

This technique is used on wood grain vinyl like you would see on older station wagons. Window tinting and clear paint protection films. If it were me I would use a razor blade on decal at the aluminum seams to keep decal in constant contact with aluminum to dirt and water from getting underneath.
If that make you uncomfortable take it to vinyl graphics shop.
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Old 12-08-2015, 04:14 PM   #5
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Vinyl application 101

By "it didn't work"...did you mean it wouldn't stick? If that's so, the decal is only as good as what's behind it! (paint chalking?) Clean, clean then rub some more. I use rubbing alcohol to clean. It's cheap and does a great job. Even tho that may leave a film. so clean with water after using.
Spraying water on the backing would help, with a decal that size. But if you do, place ONE DROP of dish washing soap in a quart sprayer (baby soap has lanolin in it..too oily) then fill it with water until there's NO soap foam coming out. (Your just trying to make the water slicker). When using this method you must remember you just put water behind it to keep it from sticking..if it wants to come off or moves before being rubbed down...well duh....
To apply: Tape the top half on/half off, so it can "hinge". Then lift it up, (You'll need another pair of hands for a decal this size) pull down 12" or so of the backing and rub it across the top, working it into the creases as you go down. Once in place, make sure all the water is rubbed out and remove the application tape (top layer) If this starts to pull the decal off (see "duh" above) then soak the application tape with your water and gently remove. The rub it all down again. When doing this type of application, "Patience is a virtue"
Large bubbles need to be pricked with a pen or xacto blade, all the tiny bubbles will disappear over time.
Hope this helps!
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Old 12-08-2015, 05:15 PM   #6
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Decals

Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Daddy View Post
By "it didn't work"...did you mean it wouldn't stick? If that's so, the decal is only as good as what's behind it! (paint chalking?) Clean, clean then rub some more. I use rubbing alcohol to clean. It's cheap and does a great job. Even tho that may leave a film. so clean with water after using.
Spraying water on the backing would help, with a decal that size. But if you do, place ONE DROP of dish washing soap in a quart sprayer (baby soap has lanolin in it..too oily) then fill it with water until there's NO soap foam coming out. (Your just trying to make the water slicker). When using this method you must remember you just put water behind it to keep it from sticking..if it wants to come off or moves before being rubbed down...well duh....
To apply: Tape the top half on/half off, so it can "hinge". Then lift it up, (You'll need another pair of hands for a decal this size) pull down 12" or so of the backing and rub it across the top, working it into the creases as you go down. Once in place, make sure all the water is rubbed out and remove the application tape (top layer) If this starts to pull the decal off (see "duh" above) then soak the application tape with your water and gently remove. The rub it all down again. When doing this type of application, "Patience is a virtue"
Large bubbles need to be pricked with a pen or xacto blade, all the tiny bubbles will disappear over time.
Hope this helps!
Johnson's Baby Shampoo is the Gold Standard in decal applications in the racing world. Works great, recommend by most vinyl Mfg. Been using for a long time.
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Old 12-08-2015, 06:34 PM   #7
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In 1988 I bought the original Gerber 4b vinyl cutter and have been using vinyl ever since. After 28 years of owning my own sign shop, I've done hand lettering (a brush!) and applied vinyl graphics and lettering to every imaginable race vehicle. Soapbox Derby, Dragsters, Semi's, Racing Trailers, RV's, dirt cars, motorcycles, a Formula One car (only 1 tho) along with a clientel of no less than 7 late model NASCAR's for the Nashville track. I've personally lettered Nascar's late/great Bobby Hamilton's car, and did the graphics for a car borrowed by Dale Earnhart Jr.


But, if you feel the need to school me on how to prep water for a vinyl application (which no professional installer would do, it's all bubble free now...) I apologize!!

Sorry, "Labcamper", along with anyone else who may "misuse my information....
(For some reason, I did not receive the memo on Johnsons baby shampoo's wonderful chemical attributes)
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