Newbie with air conditioner that can't keep up?

[Radio]

New RV air conditioner that can’t keep up?

I’ve seen this complaint on FRF a number of times in the past few weeks from folks who have just purchased their first new RV. I thought I’d share my experience. (YMMV) In a nutshell, there wasn’t anything wrong with my air conditioner. But there was plenty wrong with my new trailer.

We took delivery of a Rockwood 5th wheel on the 5th of July. Our first new RV! A really hot day. We were going to camp a few nights near the dealer in Ohio before coming back to Georgia, with two more stops along the way. The first afternoon I was concerned the air conditioner wasn’t cooling the bedroom. Then I opened the wardrobe and thought I had opened an oven. Hot air was coming in through the laundry chute (under the wardrobe) which was open to the cargo bay. I cut up a cardboard box and covered up the laundry chute opening. Bedroom began to cool nicely. Later, I made a permanent mod by covering the laundry chute compartment floor with insulating foam board. Problem solved and I have a great place to store hiking boots.

Still, the air conditioner was working too hard, I thought. Then when trying to figure out how to set up the flat screen TV I felt hot air blowing on my feet. Now it was coming in though the grill for the sub-woofer, which I found also led directly into the cargo hold. I cut a square out of a black trash bag and duct taped it over the grill from behind. Plus I used foam weather seal around the cabinet doors in the entertainment center that led to the cargo hold. Another problem solved.

While I had my head stuck under the entertainment center and while installing the water filter cartridge I found a number of holes and cracks just about open to outside air around every fitting and road light. I bought 2 cans of Great Stuff and filled in every hole, crack and opening in every nook and cranny I could find including the ones in the un-air-conditioned cargo hold. And more foam weather seal went around certain cabinet doors.

Then I discovered “vent cushions” that do a great job of blocking heat from closed overhead vents that will roast your ears off. A noticeable difference as soon as you put them in.

All this in the first month.

Later I found lots of heat coming in through the shower skylight. I took down the inner garnish and covered over the clear window with parchment paper. (It was cheap and I had it laying around) Others have applied various window tint solutions. When my shower skylight bubble cracked and leaked I replaced it with a smoke tinted one. That helped.

Also the frosted window on the entry door, which you can’t see out of anyway, got a tint treatment as well. The heat coming in, testing with the back of my hand, was again greatly reduced. The tint doesn’t have to be boring. I went with a stained glass window effect. There are many solutions for entry door tinting, search FRF.

When it came time to replace vent lids, they too were replaced with the tinted variety. Even with MaxxAir covers it made a difference.

So…

1. Close off all passages between the cabin and the cargo holds. You’d be surprised how many there are.
2. Seal up all the cracks and openings you can find with Great Stuff (or whatever you think works)
3. Get some vent cushions.
4. Tint (or just plain block) skylights, door windows and vent lids.

Now my 13,500 BTU a/c can handle the Georgia summer very well and doesn’t run all the time cooling a 30 ft 5th wheel.

[mud yapster]

I have 2 A/C units on our 42' Columbus, a 15k and 13.5k with both running and 100 outside I can make it 68 deg. inside no problem. Like you I sealed all plumbing and electrical penetrations with squirt foam and silicone caulking. It took 2 cans of foam, 8 tubes of caulking. I also sealed the underbelly seams with caulking. I still need to add some foam insulation board in cargo compartment and under the Toy hauler garage floor. I'm sure I can make the inside as cold as we want it. Next trip I'm going to see if I can get it down closer to 60 inside I can take the cold she can't. LOL
seal them up you will be surprised how many place you will find air leaking in.

[Radio]

Originally Posted by mud yapster

Like you I sealed all plumbing and electrical penetrations with squirt foam and silicone caulking. It took 2 cans of foam, 8 tubes of caulking..... seal them up you will be surprised how many place you will find air leaking in.

Yeah, that's about right!

[mud yapster]

We don't need much heat here in East Texas in the winter but we need lots of cooling to stay spoiled in the summer. LOL
Happy Camping Radio

[n2striper]

Great ideas here. I did buy the white and silver pillows to go in the vents to reflect the sun. However, I am now adding a 13,500 Dometic Penquin II a/c in our bedroom. When it is hot as hell and no shade the one unit could not keep up. I should be able to hang meat in my Heritage Glenn 5er. !!!

[Myrle]

Originally Posted by Radio

New RV air conditioner that can’t keep up?

I’ve seen this complaint on FRF a number of times in the past few weeks from folks who have just purchased their first new RV. I thought I’d share my experience. (YMMV) In a nutshell, there wasn’t anything wrong with my air conditioner. But there was plenty wrong with my new trailer.

We took delivery of a Rockwood 5th wheel on the 5th of July. Our first new RV! A really hot day. We were going to camp a few nights near the dealer in Ohio before coming back to Georgia, with two more stops along the way. The first afternoon I was concerned the air conditioner wasn’t cooling the bedroom. Then I opened the wardrobe and thought I had opened an oven. Hot air was coming in through the laundry chute (under the wardrobe) which was open to the cargo bay. I cut up a cardboard box and covered up the laundry chute opening. Bedroom began to cool nicely. Later, I made a permanent mod by covering the laundry chute compartment floor with insulating foam board. Problem solved and I have a great place to store hiking boots.

Still, the air conditioner was working too hard, I thought. Then when trying to figure out how to set up the flat screen TV I felt hot air blowing on my feet. Now it was coming in though the grill for the sub-woofer, which I found also led directly into the cargo hold. I cut a square out of a black trash bag and duct taped it over the grill from behind. Plus I used foam weather seal around the cabinet doors in the entertainment center that led to the cargo hold. Another problem solved.

While I had my head stuck under the entertainment center and while installing the water filter cartridge I found a number of holes and cracks just about open to outside air around every fitting and road light. I bought 2 cans of Great Stuff and filled in every hole, crack and opening in every nook and cranny I could find including the ones in the un-air-conditioned cargo hold. And more foam weather seal went around certain cabinet doors.

Then I discovered “vent cushions” that do a great job of blocking heat from closed overhead vents that will roast your ears off. A noticeable difference as soon as you put them in.

All this in the first month.

Later I found lots of heat coming in through the shower skylight. I took down the inner garnish and covered over the clear window with parchment paper. (It was cheap and I had it laying around) Others have applied various window tint solutions. When my shower skylight bubble cracked and leaked I replaced it with a smoke tinted one. That helped.

Also the frosted window on the entry door, which you can’t see out of anyway, got a tint treatment as well. The heat coming in, testing with the back of my hand, was again greatly reduced. The tint doesn’t have to be boring. I went with a stained glass window effect. There are many solutions for entry door tinting, search FRF.

When it came time to replace vent lids, they too were replaced with the tinted variety. Even with MaxxAir covers it made a difference.

So…q

1. Close off all passages between the cabin and the cargo holds. You’d be surprised how many there are.
2. Seal up all the cracks and openings you can find with Great Stuff (or whatever you think works)
3. Get some vent cushions.
4. Tint (or just plain block) skylights, door windows and vent lids.

Now my 13,500 BTU a/c can handle the Georgia summer very well and doesn’t run all the time cooling a 30 ft 5th wheel.

Take a meat thermometer hold over air intake at the air conditioning on top then check at exhaust should be at least 15 degrees different to be witwithin specs. When we got our RV air wasn't coming out of the vents very well so kept looking and have been digging pieces of foam where they cut the channels for ac.

[rsdata]

Radio thx for the post
going to spray paint my clear shower bubble to the outside with white paint to block some sun

[Harkerr]

Parking in shade is a huge plus too

[NCBBA11043]

. . . but on my 2016 Silverback 33IK, it seems like the cargo hold gets its heating (and cooling) from the interior of the unit. This is where most of the water lines run exposed, and I think it is meant to keep them from freezing in cold weather. So, before you block off all the leaks, check to see where your water lines are.

[G.B.]

Great thread! Thanks Radio.

[Radio]

Originally Posted by NCBBA11043

. . . but on my 2016 Silverback 33IK, it seems like the cargo hold gets its heating (and cooling) from the interior of the unit. This is where most of the water lines run exposed, and I think it is meant to keep them from freezing in cold weather. So, before you block off all the leaks, check to see where your water lines are.

That's what I've been told and I gave it some thought. So if I want to share heat with the cargo hold I can remove the foam from the laundry chute and just open the little cabinet door with the screen/grill in it.

But this is Georgia. Probably never need to do that.

Being a weather buff I have a little weather station in the camper. I can put the remote/outdoor sensor in the cargo hold to monitor the situation. Right now it say it's danged hot in there!

[mud yapster]

LOL I blocked my cargo compartment also it was as cold in it as in the interior. I still need to get some foam sheeting for under the bedroom floor.

[silverback 35ts]

Originally Posted by Radio

New RV air conditioner that can’t keep up?

I’ve seen this complaint on FRF a number of times in the past few weeks from folks who have just purchased their first new RV. I thought I’d share my experience. (YMMV) In a nutshell, there wasn’t anything wrong with my air conditioner. But there was plenty wrong with my new trailer.

We took delivery of a Rockwood 5th wheel on the 5th of July. Our first new RV! A really hot day. We were going to camp a few nights near the dealer in Ohio before coming back to Georgia, with two more stops along the way. The first afternoon I was concerned the air conditioner wasn’t cooling the bedroom. Then I opened the wardrobe and thought I had opened an oven. Hot air was coming in through the laundry chute (under the wardrobe) which was open to the cargo bay. I cut up a cardboard box and covered up the laundry chute opening. Bedroom began to cool nicely. Later, I made a permanent mod by covering the laundry chute compartment floor with insulating foam board. Problem solved and I have a great place to store hiking boots.

Still, the air conditioner was working too hard, I thought. Then when trying to figure out how to set up the flat screen TV I felt hot air blowing on my feet. Now it was coming in though the grill for the sub-woofer, which I found also led directly into the cargo hold. I cut a square out of a black trash bag and duct taped it over the grill from behind. Plus I used foam weather seal around the cabinet doors in the entertainment center that led to the cargo hold. Another problem solved.

While I had my head stuck under the entertainment center and while installing the water filter cartridge I found a number of holes and cracks just about open to outside air around every fitting and road light. I bought 2 cans of Great Stuff and filled in every hole, crack and opening in every nook and cranny I could find including the ones in the un-air-conditioned cargo hold. And more foam weather seal went around certain cabinet doors.

Then I discovered “vent cushions” that do a great job of blocking heat from closed overhead vents that will roast your ears off. A noticeable difference as soon as you put them in.

All this in the first month.

Later I found lots of heat coming in through the shower skylight. I took down the inner garnish and covered over the clear window with parchment paper. (It was cheap and I had it laying around) Others have applied various window tint solutions. When my shower skylight bubble cracked and leaked I replaced it with a smoke tinted one. That helped.

Also the frosted window on the entry door, which you can’t see out of anyway, got a tint treatment as well. The heat coming in, testing with the back of my hand, was again greatly reduced. The tint doesn’t have to be boring. I went with a stained glass window effect. There are many solutions for entry door tinting, search FRF.

When it came time to replace vent lids, they too were replaced with the tinted variety. Even with MaxxAir covers it made a difference.

So…

1. Close off all passages between the cabin and the cargo holds. You’d be surprised how many there are.
2. Seal up all the cracks and openings you can find with Great Stuff (or whatever you think works)
3. Get some vent cushions.
4. Tint (or just plain block) skylights, door windows and vent lids.

Now my 13,500 BTU a/c can handle the Georgia summer very well and doesn’t run all the time cooling a 30 ft 5th wheel.

I just want to add one thing to this as I do think MOST know this, if you have a fantastic fan you can get "insulated covers" yes they cost more and all it is, is a double cover but they do make a difference if you are trying to get all you can to save you a/c from running 24/7

P.S. at least they were available before they changed hands, and you have to call them direct or you could go through a dealer but cheaper if you call direct. Happy Camping

[Rodgers]

Thanks Radio thats some good info any chance of some pics to see areas you have done this to.

[frozen]

On a similar theme, a few years ago we were camped in an a Utah park where the host said there was a high concentration of mice. I spent some time under our Rockwood and found more openings in the underbelly than I could shake a cat at including large holes where the bumper was attached to the I-beams. A cat truly could have been shoved through those. Caulk, spray foam, hardware cloth, aluminum flashing, Gorilla tape eventually covered most entry points.

[Radio]

Originally Posted by Rodgers

Thanks Radio thats some good info any chance of some pics to see areas you have done this to.

I can do that, pretty boring stuff, though. Give me about a week to get to it.

[Radio]

We are camping this week and the A/C is keeping up in the 96F heat we had earlier. The fridge is working hard but managing.

Which reminded me...

I discovered to my disbelief that one of my a/c ducts was open to the outside world via the fridge compartment! HOLY COW!! Yeah, the a/c was blowing cold air out the roof fridge vent! Packed that full of foam sealer right away.

SO if you have ducted a/c with a Styrofoam filled roof (as I do) and you have a fridge on the rear wall (as I do) you might want to check that.

[Sierra360PDEK]

Skylight over the shower, I took the inside cover out and fitted two layers of the silver bubble solar windshield cover to it. Big difference in temp. This winter I'm going to cover the skylight with Eternabond.

Roof vents. Put a smoked or black cover over them. Greatly reduces the heat load and allows them to be open to exhaust the heat when sitting between trips. We also use the pillows when camping.

Ducted A/C's, pull the end vents off and stuff a towel in the duct just past the last vent. Its amazing how much cold air goes past the last vent and into the oblivion.

As others have said canned spray foam and caulk will be your best friend in sealing up all the holes.

We have a total of 28500 BTUs of A/C for our 42' fiver and I can hang meat in ours.

Stay cool and camp on.

[Radio]

Originally Posted by Rodgers

Thanks Radio thats some good info any chance of some pics to see areas you have done this to.

OK here's a few pics...

1. Covered up the laundry chute with blue foam board insulation. Now we have a place to keep hiking boots, among other things. This mod is not permanent, the foam board is just laying there.

2. Sealed off the sub-woofer cabinet at the base of the entertainment center. The cabinet with the black grill (on our floor plan) allowed air flow into the cargo hold. Cut a square of black plastic trash bag and used duct tape to seal it off. The door to the right, if opened, will still allow air into the cargo hold.

3. Noted the air ducts went on past the last vents in the bedroom. Wonder where that went to? Sealed them off with Great stuff.

[Radio]

Great Stuff...

I put Great Stuff in every crack and crevice I could reach. I have a rear kitchen floor plan which allowed some access from inside the cabinets to all sorts of openings to the outside, all of which leaked air.

1. This is the water pump/filter compartment. Note the magnetic latch mod, and the 3rd hinge has been removed. Also note the added vertical wood piece that keeps the thin plywood floor of the cabinet above (full of pots and pans) from sagging. And note the "towel and string" used to keep the crock pot lid safe while traveling.

2. A closer look at Great Stuff around the city water inlet.

3. Then in the cargo hold you will find lots of places to seal up, like these grey water lines from the sink and shower. Everywhere a pipe or wire goes into cabin space there will be a hole, and that hole will leak air.